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Essay

A Cyclist’s Diary: Ride through Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Narrative and photographs by Farouk Gulsara

They said they were going to be rough-and-tumble countries, not for the faint-hearted. We said, “bring them on!” Initially, four from the cycling team opted in, but in due course, two withdrew due to medical maladies and other assorted issues, two withdrew. Rather than seeing it as a cue to call the whole thing off, we stood firm. 

“It could be our only chance to do it”, we thought. After all, the master organiser extraordinaire, JS, staying true to the grit of his profession, had planned an elaborate itinerary, complete with plans A through C and beyond in case of obstacles. And I did not want to let him down, so there we were, just JS and I to do the course as a duo, cycling through the wild countries that could only be tamed by the Khans themselves, the Mongols, not the Bollywood Khans.

Day 1: Arrival at Almaty

Now everyone can fly to all kinds of spots, and they can also fly directly from Kuala Lumpur to Almaty, Kazakhstan. Almaty is the country’s largest city and was the capital of a struggling post-Soviet economy until 1997, when an economic boom followed. Oil and mineral discoveries snowballed the economy to dizzying heights. Astana became a gaudy display of its wealth, dubbed the ‘Dubai of the Steppes’, and became the capital afterwards. 

Call it bias, but because of their leaders’ association with Malaysia’s disgraced PM, Najib, my initial impression of Kazakhstan, even before going there, was dismal. To prove me right, my first contact with a Kazakh was unpleasant. The airport taxi driver tried to fleece us by concocting a story to charge six times the usual fare. We managed to talk ourselves out of it, but this kind of trickery seems to be a common pastime in Kazakhstan. On the last leg back to Almaty, another cab driver tried the same trick.

Before the end of the day, we managed to pick up our pre-booked mountain bikes for hire with minimal fanfare.

Day 2: Almaty to Saty

The day began light and easy, travelling in a hired car to Saty and stopping to admire the many beauties of Kazakhstan’s natural landscapes. Charyn State National Nature Park features striking rock formations in an arid, sandy expanse that resemble ancient, abandoned fortresses, earning it the nickname ‘Valley of Castles’. Nearby, the Black Canyon offered a splendid view of a deep gorge of black volcanic rocks, with the Charyn River rushing below. 

Day 3: Saty

Saty is a small village about 200 km from Almaty. Still immersed in the outdoors, we set out on our short 15 km ride to Kolsai Lake. After securing our cycles, we set off on a hike to see the nearby eerie-looking Kaindy Lake with its submerged forest. Apparently, an earthquake in 1911 displaced the trees, but they still stand as projections of dead poles, not rotting after all these years. Funny, this area was so lush with greenery, unlike the rest of Saty. We continued our journey with a 15 km gruelling hike to explore a hidden second Kolsai Lake. We overestimated our abilities, and by the time we returned to our bikes, we realised two things. First, it was already dark, and we had not brought our bicycle lights; second, someone had thought it would be funny to release the air out of one of the tyres.

When the going gets tough, the tough get going, they say. We finally had to hitch a ride on a 10-tonne lorry, packing our bikes on it. 

Day 4: Saty to the Kyrgyzstan border

This stretch proved to be the hardest throughout our ride. There is a stark difference between the terrain of Kazakhstan and that of Kyrgyzstan, which we realised much later. The comparison is like night and day. The former is situated in a mountainous region with roads that perpetually ascend, sometimes with gradients of 12% for miles and miles, whilst the latter is mostly boring, flat as a pancake, mainly on steppe land.

We spent almost 3.5 hours trying to cover 28 km, but it proved impossible to complete our planned journey to Kegen, a border town. The midday sun was already scorching, and with the hills relentlessly closing in, we threw in the towel and, after lunch, ‘teleported’ ourselves to the Kyrgyzstan border, some 70 km away, in an SUV. 

The entrance to Kyrgyzstan revealed a new set of landscapes and a different set of people with distinct characteristics. If the Kazakhstanis gave the impression of having their noses in the air, probably due to a sudden rise in their wealth, the Kyrgyz were warm and accommodating. The officer at the border patiently explained where we could get food and accommodation. We later experienced genuine Kyrgyz hospitality.

In the border town of Karkara, we realised there were no guest houses available. The only place with yurts [1]was being refurbished and closed to business. After much discussion, aided by hand signals and Google Translate, the workers on the property let us stay there overnight. To top it off, they even let us share their warm, freshly cooked traditional Kyrgyz dinner and breakfast the next morning.

It was that time of year when the World Nomad Games, a UNESCO-sanctioned Central Asian Intangible Cultural Heritage, were in full swing. We managed to catch a glimpse of a group of young people practising ‘Kok-boru‘, in which riders on horseback compete in an open space for a goat carcass.

Kok-boru, a traditional game

Day 5: Karkara to Karakol

Unlike our rides in Kazakhstan, this ride was more pleasant in terms of gradient. The state of the roads, however, was far from ideal. In the beginning, we shared the road with herds of cows, sheep, and horses heading towards wherever they were to graze. It was not easy manoeuvring, trying to guide the two-pannier-loaded mountain bikes away from the unpredictable animals. To make it scarier, some of the bulls were obviously in heat, mounting six receptive cows as they sauntered along the highway. And we know how lust blurs the mind. 

Kygyz National Highway

Later we encountered whatever remained as a semblance of a road that was probably laid down when the Soviet Union launched its first Soyuz mission. The edge of the road appeared like a flattened aloo paratha[2] with its fillings sticking out. The Kyrgyz, on a mission to wriggle out of the post-Soviet economic malaise, had struck major deals with China to develop their infrastructure. The new Chinese road contractors must have a peculiar way of road building. They seem to dig out kilometres after kilometres of highway before laying gravel and tar to complete their project. What was left for road users (and cyclists like us) on most of the 91 km journey was a choice between an unpaved road and a gravel-spiked, filled shoulder to ride on. Perhaps it was the contractor’s strategy to complete everything at one go, collect the remuneration and scram before defects show up!

Karakol is a well-planned, modern town with many fascinating structures, and it is home to a Russian Orthodox Church and a mosque.

The Kyrgyz and the Kazakhs mostly identify themselves as Muslims, but do not wear their beliefs on their sleeves. We hardly heard the daily call to prayer. During a visit to the local mosque, we were sceptical about whether we would be allowed in, as we were not exactly dressed for the occasion. Surprisingly, they cordially ushered us in to take pictures. Interestingly, they were happy to know that we were from Malaysia, a Muslim-majority country. Assuming we were Muslims too, they embraced us in reverence, wishing us a hearty ‘Assalamualaikum, Musalman brother!’ We obliged. Most mosques in smaller towns are modest, with their ancient architecture preserved. Mammoth domed mosques are being seen rising in larger towns. 

Day 6: Day Trip to Altyn-Arashan

Taking a break from cycling, we took a day trip to Altyn-Arashan, a picturesque alpine valley situated about 2,400 metres above sea level. It boasts a hot spring, eye-pleasing scenery, accommodation, and a passageway for hikers to explore other peaks.

Instead of spending 5 hours hiking along the dusty path shared by 4WD vehicles, we decided to get into one of those mean-looking Russian 4WD vehicles called UAZ. The way up to Altyn-Arashan was treacherous, to say the least. The road was paved not with gravel pebbles but with medium-sized, sharp granite stones jutting from the ground. In my opinion, the UAZ is the only machine in the world suited for this rollercoaster mission. The irony of it all is that there was not a single rattle of the chassis or a single squeak from the vehicle’s parts.

Day 7: Karachol to Barskoon

We were back on the saddle for another rollercoaster ride with lots of shaking and rattling going on. The Chinese road construction firms were at it again. Instead of upgrading roads in small stretches, they found it in their wisdom to dig up the entire stretch before resurfacing it. We were fighting between the devil and the deep blue sea, keeping to the edge of the road or pulling over to the shoulder of the road. On the edge, the road is uneven; on the shoulder, there were sharp granite stones. The bikes took a lot of beating. Luckily, they were mountain bikes with broad tyres to match. Yet, on this 79 km journey, we encountered a couple of tyre punctures, and about 4km before our destination, my derailleur broke. We had to push our bikes to our pre-designated guest house in Barskoon. The landlord was gracious enough to arrange for a handyman, whom we fondly referred to as Mr MacGyver, who sorted out everything, patched the punctures, repaired the derailleur and made the cycles good to go. 

Communication with the locals remained a major problem for us in both countries. By being behind the Iron Curtain for such a long time and being anglophobes, to avert decadent capitalist values from the mainstream for such a long time, the average Kazakh and Kyrgyz were not proficient in English. Google Translate went a long way to help us express our thoughts. There was an instance when we had an amusing moment. We were trying to order ‘fried rice’ from a restaurant. We thought the message came across well when we typed it into Google Translate, and the Russian Cyrillic script displayed everything. 

The waitress returned with a single scoop of white rice and a few slices of tomato and cucumber. Amused, we tried to mimic how chefs usually stir a wok. She then returned with the same preparation but placed it in a plastic container! We then ordered a random item from the menu. 

Typical Kyrgz food

Day 8: Barskoon to Bököbaev

We skirted Isskyl-Kul Lake along the day’s 65km journey. The Isskyl-Kul Lake is the world’s second-highest mountain lake, after Lake Titicaca in South America. Somewhere along the way, we stopped at Tosso Beach, a long sandy beach with captivating turquoise-blue water that had obviously seen better times. The bins were overflowing with garbage. The flies were having a field day. I guess Kyrgyzstan is still trying to get its act together to showcase its natural beauty and attract tourist dollars. Most of the public toilet facilities outside towns are archaic, at least 50 years behind those in Malaysia. On highways and at many tourist-attracting venues, we saw pit latrines for the first time in a long time.

At a distance from the beach lay the orangey sandstone ridges that looked like a scene from a sci-fi movie set on Mars. This is Skaza Valley/Canyon, also called Fairy Tale Canyon, because its natural ridges resemble castles, animals, dragons, and whatever our imagination can conjure.

This turned out to be another eventful cycling day as we encountered flat tyre after flat tyre. In no time, we had perfected the art of changing bicycle tubes without removing the tyre from the bicycle. In every new town we reached, we somehow found a mechanic, not necessarily a bicycle technician, who could get us back on our wheels. Our guardian angels must be kind.

Skaza Valley

Day 9: Bököbaev to Balykchy

Still riding around Issyk-Kul Lake, we made headway to Balykchy. One problem we often encountered was the mind-bending names of towns. With frequent use of B’s and K’s in their names, and further complicated by their old Soviet names, remembering them became a Herculean task. For a start, don’t Kochkor, Korday, Korkara and Karakol sound strikingly similar?

Free enterprise in Kyrgyzstan must still be in its infancy. Most of the little towns and villages did not have hotels. Online third-party platforms like Booking.com may show scores of available accommodations in the smallest of towns. In reality, they are merely private homes with no signage, and transactions are handled in cash only, without the issuance of receipts. 

For the first time, we noticed a railway line traversing a town. With increasing mining activity in the region, Balchyky earned its reputation as a transportation hub. We parked our cycles at Balchyky and took a taxi to Kochkor. Our plan was to visit Kochkor and the Narynn Hills, a popular tourist spot which safely guards its jewel in the crown, Kel-Suu Lake, an enchanting glacial lake bordering China.

Due to the high security of the place, we were to visit, a mandatory permit needed to be issued by the CBT (Community-based Tourism) office. The local populace benefited too by organising travel and accommodation within the community. 

Our guest house landlord suggested a popular travel agent to sort out our travel arrangements to Naryn Hills and beyond.  Hence, we sought the help of the local travel agents to handle logistics. 

The office was actually the living room of somebody’s residence. We were ushered in by a teenage girl who told us to have a seat and wait, saying, “My mother is coming!” A couple of young men were already seated before us. A few moments later, the mother did appear. The young men saw her and said, “Oh, it is you,” and left. Left wondering, we discussed our plans and were thrown a fat quotation. We declined and sought another travel agent. We repeated our plan. Our antennas went up when we heard a familiar sentence: “Wait, my mother is coming!”

“Is your mother also running Shephard Life?” Yes, was her reply. Then we knew there was a corporate mafia controlling Kochkor’s tourism industry. 

Day 10: Kochkor to Naryn

We decided to take our chance and rent a taxi to Naryn and see what develops there. By a twist of fate, we found two other young German students who were toying with the same idea of going up to Kok-Kiya Valley, staying the night in a yurt, and hiking up to Kel-Suu Lake. Talk about synchronicity! We ended up paying only a third of what the travel agent quoted. It took a 3.5-hour journey in a 4-wheel-drive vehicle up from Naryn to Kok-Kiya Valley, which lies above 3000 metres above sea level. The valley had collections of yurts, each owned by different families or companies, offering food and warmth to passing travellers and hikers.

A worker was seen clearing horse dung lying across the flatland. I was impressed by their level of cleanliness, I thought, until the same person later came to our yurt to fuel our traditional heater with the same dung. The amenities were basic. Water was stored in a tanker lorry, and the toilets were simple pit latrines. Still, the hospitality was warm, and so was the food that they provided for dinner and breakfast.

Yurt village in Kok-Kiya Valley

Day 11: Hike up to Kel Suu Lake

We started the day trembling. Outside temperatures were in the single-digit C range. After a hearty Kyrgyz breakfast of flatbread, vegetable soup, eggs, oats, cucumber, and tomatoes, we set out to seek the hidden jewel, Kel-Soo Lake. Generally, the guest houses we stayed in offered the same variety of food, just presented differently. We had two ways to get to the lake: on foot or on horseback. Of course, we chose the former. 2.5 hours of climbing and puffing finally unfolded the lake in its full glory.

Then it was time to return and head down to Balychky, where our cycles were. Our newly found German mates and we had a cordial exchange of ideas about social and political situations in each other’s countries.

Kel Suu Lake

Day12: Balykchy to Kemin

After a good, full two days’ rest, away from our cycling routine, we continued our journey. We intended to do 60km before retiring for the day. We were slowly getting away from the vicinity of Issyl-Kul Lake. Unfortunately, the Universe had other plans for us. We could not find any guest houses, so we continued to a certain point. The villages were all tiny settlements. At Kemin, at about the 78 km mark, we took a break at a tyre shop to patch our bicycle tubes. As we started chatting with the owner and some curious onlookers via Google Translate, as would a hen and a duck communicate, who were wondering what these two foreign faces were up to, we found out that his friend had a minivan and could take us to the next nearest town. We jumped on the suggestion. Cycles, panniers and all, we swiftly sped off to Tokmok.

Day 13: Tokmok to Bishkek

By a twist of fate, we landed in a town which holds Kyrgyzstan’s most important historical site, Burana Tower. It showcases the remains of the medieval city of Balasagan, an important pre-Islamic Silk Road Settlement. Tokmok itself is an up-and-coming residential city with numerous apartment complexes emerging.

Time to go again, this time to the capital city of Bishkek. Our ride was slowly coming to an end. This 58km journey was flat, but as we got closer to the municipality of Bishkek, we were inundated with too many T-junctions and traffic lights. Bishkek and Almaty are both well-planned cities. Roads are well paved, and paths are wide, providing ample space for cyclists and pedestrians to move around. The trouble is that, as in any part of the world, pedestrians here too display zombie-like behaviour. They walk, staring at their devices, oblivious to who or what is around them. We had to politely alert them.

As if to felicitate us on our safe passage through the country, the Universe blessed us with light showers as we entered Bishkek.

Burana Tower

Days 14 &15: Laze around Bishkek

Time to unwind in the city, experience its local culture, food, and sights, and walk in its National Park. Like any country behind the Iron Curtain, Kyrgyzstan (and Kazakhstan) has many statues, plaques, and squares commemorating the numerous fallen heroes of the World Wars. 

On a side note, I wonder how many of these statues were erected by North Koreans. For the record, in the 1970s and 80’s, statue building was an important source of foreign funds from socialist countries, non-aligned African countries, and surprisingly, Germany. It dwindled with the collapse of the Berlin Wall. 

After days of savouring local cuisines, we were yearning for something Indian. A quick Google search led us to a ‘Gandhi Restaurant’. Assuming it was a vegetarian restaurant, as Gandhi was a vegetarian  to the core, we were taken aback to discover that ‘Gandhi Restaurant’ served meat and wine. I guess Gandhi’s kin must not have heard of this restaurant. Otherwise, they would sue the restaurant for tainting the Mahatma’s pristine image of ahimsa[3]. Even Gandhi Jayanti is a dry day (alcohol-free) across India.

Victory Square, Bishkek

Day 16 &17: Bishkek to Almaty

We were approaching the tail end of our tour. A 23 km ride from Bishkek, and we were at Korday, at the Kazakhstan border. Another taxi ride and 2.5 hours later, we were back at Almaty, where we started.

The next day was spent lazing around, wandering about Almaty. A trip up Kok Tobe Hills on the gondola gave a great view of the city’s rapid development.

A ride on the newly commissioned single Metro line has made travelling within the city easier, though it is not quite a breeze yet, as one still has to walk a lot. The Metro stations are quite impressive, each with a distinct motif that highlights different aspects of their history and flaunts their newfound prosperity. Attractive tourist spots include Ascension Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox Church, various parks that form the city’s green lung, and the Green Bazaar. A view that stirred our curiosity was the sale of horse meat. Once stripped to the elements, every meat looked the same — beef, mutton or pork. In fact, they were all sold side by side in the meat section. Interesting.

Next, back to life, back to reality.

The two countries, having a somewhat similar past and even names, are different in so many ways. Firstly, the terrains were different: Kazakhstan was hilly and unforgiving in its inclines, while Kyrgyzstan was as flat as can be. Unlike their cold nouveau riche cousins across the border, the Kyrgyz are warm in their interactions. As far as riding conditions go, perhaps if we had ridden here a year later, the roads would have been in better condition. But then, I wonder if the road users would have shown more etiquette. 

All in all, over the span of 17 days, we cycled over 530 km and hiked about 38kms and live to tell the tale that we survived the wild countries. 

Almaty, after dark! View from Kok Tobe Hill, Almaty

[1] A yurt is a portable, round tent with a wooden frame covered in felt or skins, traditionally used as a home by nomadic groups in Central Asia

[2] Alloo Paratha is a flatbread stuffed with potatoes.

[3] Ahimsa – Sanskrit for non-violence. 

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Farouk Gulsara is a daytime healer and a writer by night. After developing his left side of his brain almost half his lifetime, this johnny-come-lately decided to stimulate the non-dominant part of his remaining half. An author of two non-fiction books, Inside the twisted mind of Rifle Range Boy and Real Lessons from Reel Life, he writes regularly in his blog, Rifle Range Boy.

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Conversation

Small Windows into Being Alive

A chance sighting in a Bulgarian park sparked a book for Dr Hannah Stevens, who talks to Keith Lyons about why the short story is the perfect form for shining a light on difficult experiences.

Dr Hannah Stevens, author of On the Bodies of Strangers and In Their Absence. Editor
of Tâigael and Mother Tongue, writer, Director at Wind&Bones.

Dr Hannah Stevens (https://hannahstevenswriter.com/) has worked with survivors of domestic abuse, LGBTQI+ communities, activists and educators, using writing and storytelling as tools for advocacy. Her new short story collection, On the Bodies of Strangers, uses tattoos as a doorway into queerness, gendered violence and the mysteries that lie even within familiar lives.

KL: What first inspired you to write this collection of short stories, and how did the idea for it come about?

HS: In 2020 I was walking in a city centre park in Sofia, Bulgaria. It was summer and everyone had shed the warm layers of winter clothes for vests and shorts. I was walking with my partner and collaborator, Will Buckingham, and we were discussing what our next writing projects might be. A woman stepped out on the path in front of us and she had a tattoo on her back. Maybe the tattoo had a story behind it or maybe it didn’t. But the woman certainly would have a story and the idea for this collection just immediately crystallised: a themed collection of human stories linked by the theme of tattoos.

KL: Your stories explore some quite intense human experiences. What themes or questions do you find yourself returning to again and again in your work?

HS: I tend to write about things that preoccupy me, things that worry me, things that inspire me and things that I’ve experienced too. Although the most obvious theme binding the stories together here is tattoos (and I have a few tattoos myself!), there are others too. A lot of the characters in the stories are queer, for example and there are bisexual, lesbian and gay characters. I didn’t set out with the idea to write queer stories, but these are the stories that came. I’m a queer woman who has had relationships with women, non-binary, trans people and men. I’ve inhabited various incarnations of queer worlds, and I think we often end up writing the worlds we know and the people we recognise.

Another theme I often think and write about is gendered violence and abuse because it is such a global issue. There are a number of stories that focus on gendered abuse with male protagonists who abuse their female partners. This kind of abuse is a common occurrence in the UK and around the world and something that’s worth bearing witness to. Some stories in the collection also document the cruelty and abuse that can happen in same sex and queer relationships, which can be overlooked. They highlight the harm we can do to each other by not saying how we really feel and what we truly desire. And there are cruelties in familial relationships here too: the violence parents can enact on their children as well as emotional neglect.

Not all of these things were themes that I set out to write about in this collection but were rather things that emerged through the writing process.  They are difficult subjects but I’m glad they’re here.

The ‘of Strangers’ part of the title is also a nod to the strangers we share the world with. We have our circle of friends and family and other connections, but we live in a world amongst people who are predominantly strangers to us. However, when we dig deeper even those who are familiar and known to us always hold mysteries because we can never truly know anybody can we? Maybe we can’t even fully know ourselves. These are things that I think about a lot.

KL: What drew you to the short story form specifically, rather than novels or other forms of writing?

HS: I love to read and to write short stories: I think they’re intense, powerful and a really precise form. They can capture important, fleeting moments that we might otherwise overlook and really shine a light on our diverse experiences of being alive. Through this collection I’ve tried to take some important and big concerns I have and illuminate them through small windows.

KL: Could you tell us a bit about your background and how you came to be a writer?

HS: I was born into a working-class family in the midlands of England and was the first in my family to go to university. Growing up it didn’t occur to me that writing could be something you could build a life from or that could be a career or a job. But I did love reading and I started writing in earnest during my undergraduate degree in Creative Writing and English. My choice to study creative writing wasn’t planned. I just hoped that it would be interesting because I’d enjoyed reading. During my degree I came across a dusty old book in the library that was – on reflection — life changing. The book was a short story collection by the English writer Daphne du Maurier called The Birds and Other Stories. The stories were dark and haunting and incredibly well constructed, and I totally fell in love with the short story form because of it.

KL: What was your writing process like for this collection? Did you have a clear plan from the start, or did the stories evolve as you wrote them?

HS: I had a few ideas floating around but no clear plan. I’m not good at planning really. I realised this when I attempted to write a novel and had to plan a road map through the chapters. I hated it.

KL: Are there any characters or stories in the collection that you would like to meet?

HS: I’ve met some of the characters in the stories, though none of them are 100% accurate depictions of real-life people, of course. I’ve met Adam in ‘Almost At The Top’ and Jack from ‘The Soft Edges of Difficult Things’ and I wouldn’t want to meet them again. But I did want to explore them through the stories and to capture something of their awfulness. It feels important to not shy away from some of the awfulness of human nature.

I would like to meet Angel and Alma from ‘Stick and Poke’. They have so much potential in spite of their difficult circumstances. And they are such good friends. In terms of their futures, I’d hope that they’re still friends and that they’ve managed to carve out happier and safer lives for themselves.

KL: Your collection was shortlisted for the W&A Working Class Writers’ Prize in 2022, several years before its eventual publication. How did that early recognition shape the development of the book, and what was the journey like from shortlist to final publication?

HS: Being shortlisted for the W&A Working Class Writers’ Prize in 2022 helped to bolster my confidence. I think short stories and short story collections are really under-appreciated both culturally and commercially and especially in the UK. Being shortlisted encouraged me to keep sharing the stories with people. And I’m so glad that I did. I’ve had messages from readers who have really connected with certain stories, characters or the writing style and it’s just lovely to have these conversations with people.

KL: You’ve lived and worked in several different countries. How has that experience influenced your writing, if at all?

HS: Ironically, I never had any specific plans in terms of travel or work, but I’ve been open to different ideas and the possibility of life being many different shapes. I have really loved meeting people and making friends across the globe. I’ve learned a lot from people who were generous enough to share their time and stories with me. And I think it made me more determined to share stories that can connect people.

I’m curious about the world and people and undoubtedly new-to-me landscapes, politics, art, food and different ways of organising society have enriched my writing. Sometimes these influences are easy for me to see: a particular flower, a soundscape, a view or even a house … but other times they’re more subtle and less easy to map.

KL: What do you hope readers will take away from reading On the Bodies of Strangers?

HS: Some of the stories might be considered bleak in certain instances but they’re not without hope and possibility and I want the readers to feel this too: hope is such an important and powerful thing. I’d love it if readers felt empathy for the characters, their lives and circumstances. I mean the point of stories and literature is to really distill and humanise these things, isn’t it?

KL: As co-director of Wind&Bones, you’re running an independent press that publishes other writers’ work. What made you decide to become a publisher as well as a writer, and how do you balance those two roles?

HS: I think it was meeting so many people across the world with important, beautiful and moving stories to tell. I wanted to provide a platform that could help people to share them. It is definitely tricky balancing both publishing and writing in terms of time. But they do complement each other and it’s been useful to bring insights from one world into the other.

KL: You also run creative writing workshops. How has that work shaped your own approach to writing and revising your stories? 

HS: Running workshops has given me confidence in my own writing and to share my stories. The more I’ve connected with people the more I’ve realised what a cacophony of voices and stories the world is made up of and what a wonderful thing that is. It’s good to share our stories, whatever they may be.

KL: What advice would you give to aspiring writers, especially those who might not come from traditional literary backgrounds, who are trying to finish and publish their first collection?

HS: It’s difficult to give any specific advice about a career in writing because it’s such a diverse field and can look like so many different things. But if you love writing keep doing it as much as you can. Build connections and friendships around it because writing is a way to communicate our ideas and experiences and to build community and community is such an important part of being a writer.

KL: What are you working on now, and how does it differ from this collection?

HS: At the moment I’m working on a new collection of short stories inspired by my three years of living and working in the south of Taiwan called Upside Down Heart and Other Fiction from Formosa. I started to write this when I was writer in residence at the Taiwan Literature Base in Taipei. My stories are usually so rooted in a UK setting, I think just because the land and cityscapes are such a big part of my imagination. But this is the first time I’ve written stories set elsewhere and I’ve really enjoyed the deliberateness of the experiment and what stories have resulted.

I am also co-writing a crime detective novel set in Taiwan called The Spoonbill Murders with my fellow Wind&Bones co-director, Dr Will Buckingham. It’s been difficult to find the time to fit the writing in for this one, but it is lighthearted and a lot of fun when we do.

I am also writing an essay about returning to the city in which I was born, that traces my family history, explores the messiness of grief, the social taboo of addiction and how these things can manifest across generations.

KL: Is there anything about writing practice in general, that you wish more people knew about?

HS: A lot of people might imagine writing to be a solitary thing but, in my experience, it is an extremely collaborative process. There are editors involved in the process, of course, but writing has been a way of connecting me with all kinds of different people, cultures, ideas and new friends and it really has changed my life for the better.

Keith Lyons (keithlyons.net) is an award-winning writer and creative writing mentor originally from New Zealand who has spent a quarter of his existence living and working in Asia including southwest China, Myanmar and Bali. His Venn diagram of happiness features the aroma of freshly-roasted coffee, the negative ions of the natural world including moving water, and connecting with others in meaningful ways. A Contributing Editor on Borderless Journal’s Editorial Board, his work has appeared in Borderless since its early days, and his writing featured in the anthology Monalisa No Longer Smiles.

Extract from Hannah Steven’s short story, ‘Something You Could Feel in Your Teeth’

Georgia is on her bunk. It’s just after seven. The cell door is closed, everyone locked up for the night. Outside, it’s still light, and she thinks of being free, of what she would be doing now. Maybe drinking tea in the garden, maybe having a beer. A small garden, just a yard, would do it really, where she could feel the breeze, see the sky. Sam and Fay would be there, home with her, where they belonged. Fay would be singing a song she’d heard recently, and maybe they’d all sing the chorus together. 

Georgia feels the bunk move as Winter pulls the tattoo gun from beneath her mattress and places it onto the table. It’s a mess of parts, bound together with tape, and it makes her think of Frankenstein’s monster, something made from spares, something not meant to be one whole. It had taken a while to get everything they’d needed together: the plastic pen for the needle chamber, for Winter to exchange enough cigarettes for the small motor of an electric razor. 

There are footsteps in the corridor. They grow louder, heading towards them. 

‘That’s my release date fucked if I’m caught with this,’ says Winter, her eyes wide. 

Georgia scrambles down from her top bunk. ‘I’d take the blame, you know that,’ she says. 

‘You and I both know that’s not how it works: same cell, equal responsibility,’ replies Winter. Her voice is sharp.

Georgia stares at the door, neither of them move. 

The footsteps pass and Winter breathes out. ‘Fucking hell,’ she says. ‘Sorry, I’m just so edgy with my release date so close.’ 

Georgia notices the sweat on Winter’s forehead. She remembers watching her months ago making the needle for the gun. How she’d pulled the coiled compression spring from a smuggled lighter, heated and softened it slowly over the flame of a burning match, then spent the evening carefully, calmly stretching it, straightening it, sharpening it on the exposed brick wall. Easily something she’d be sanctioned for, her detention extended. 

‘I would be too,’ says Georgia. ‘We don’t have to do it.’ 

‘I know,’ says Winter. She wipes the sweat with the back of her hand. ‘But we are doing it. Now, you make the ink.’ 

Georgia pulls out a small plastic bag from the box on the shelf. Then she tips the loose cigarette ash she’d collected over the last week onto the plastic lid of the instant hot chocolate tub. Over at the sink, she adds water and then a squirt of liquid hand soap. She takes a metal pin from her hair, and carefully she mixes it all together.

‘Did you add enough soap?’ Winter asks.

‘I think so,’ replies Georgia. She shows Winter the wet paste.

‘A bit more,’ says Winter. ‘It needs to be thick so the colour stays in.’ Georgia adds more soap, stirs again, and hands it to Winter. 

‘Good,’ Winter nods and points to the bottom bunk. 

‘Okay, lie down.’ 

Georgia lies down, rolls up her sleeve, and looks at the tattoo already there. It’s a microphone made of sketchy, dark lines. Winter did it a few months before, and Georgia loves it in spite of its imperfections. She thinks of being on the outside, of singing again, maybe at the karaoke. She imagines the low lights of a bar, the faded velour chairs, the sticky floors, and that feeling in her chest. 

This time she’s chosen two musical notes. She’d found a book in the prison library, leafed through some pages on music composition, settled on quavers. She doesn’t know what they mean exactly. But she loves the round shape of them, the stem, the curled tail. 

Winter wipes Georgia’s arm with a damp flannel and then pats it dry with a towel. Georgia clenches her jaw: an involuntary movement, in anticipation of what’s to come. A sharp pain flashes through her mouth and then fades. She stares at the marked mattress above her. 

Winter dusts some talcum powder across Georgia’s skin and smooths it out into a fine white sheen. Next, she draws the musical notes with a blunt pencil. The end is damp and lifts the talc from her arm, like an eraser. 

‘Like this?’ Winter asks. 

Georgia looks and takes in the two new shapes. 

‘Yes,’ she replies. ‘Like that.’ 

Winter shifts in her chair and leans in a little closer. ‘Are you ready?’ 

Georgia nods. She doesn’t look at Winter, somehow doesn’t want to catch her eye. Sometimes beautiful things came from pain. Like her children. 

Winter switches on the tattoo gun. The low whir of the motor kicks in. She dips the needle into the ink and begins. 

Georgia feels the sharp, hot pain in her skin, the jagged vibration in her arm. She feels it move through her body, shake her bones, and then settle into her teeth. 

.

PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Review

Moonlight Saga: A Chronicle of the Colonial Past

Book Review by Somdatta Mandal

Title: Moonlight Saga

Author: Arupa Patangia Kalita

Translated from Assamese by Ranjita Biswas

Publisher: Speaking Tiger Books

Tea garden literature in various Indian languages forms a definite sub-genre of literary history and the present 340 pages book under review gives us a wide canvas of the rise of tea plantations in colonial Assam and the human cost that sustains them. The historical background of this novel is well-known.

Since tea gardens are extensively labour oriented, the common problem facing them is shortage of workers and this is where the arkathias or middlemen keep on recruiting Adivasi and tribal families from central India by promise them a rosy picture of Assam desh — a land of milk and honey where they can live with dignity, earn money and bring an end to their impoverishment. But reality turns out to be the exact opposite. These bonded labourers or ‘coolies’ as they are termed, are then packed onto overcrowded steamers and sent upriver, where hunger, disease and death shadow every step of their journey.

Among them is Durgi, a young woman whose resilience endures even in despair. She carries with her a small bundle of marigold seeds, a fragile memory of the land of red earth she has left behind. At her side is her husband, Dosaru, the rebellious archer, bound to her by love and the shared hope of building a life of their own. However, what awaits them at Atharighat Tea Estate, located just below the Bhutan border, is no promised land. Labourers are stripped, disinfected, confined to barracks, and driven into relentless work, while sickness, fear, and muted defiance simmer beneath the ordered rows of tea bushes.

The novel opens with Jonathan, a British tea planter and manager of the plantation, who has spent decades building the plantation from a small nursery into a large and profitable estate, arranging the supply of more Adivasi labourers to work on the plantation. His authority is near-absolute, as is his feeling of superiority. The plantation company grants him freedom to rule over workers’ lives as he sees fit, a role he takes seriously. He has to manage their arrival, ensure they do not bring malaria or cholera with them, train them to avoid snake bites and tiger attacks, and keep them productive, while also worrying about his own health in a harsh climate with limited medical care. Soon, after Jonathan’s departure, the atmosphere of the garden changes with the arrival of a comparatively young new burra-sahib called Fraser. He tries his best to uplift the living condition of the coolies and enhance the productivity of the tea estate.

Throughout the novel Kalita beautifully narrates the tensions and pressures of plantation life. As many as 60 out of every 100 new coolies die before they can even begin work. The strict discipline that they have to undergo while living in the barracks is described in the minutest details. Durgi, a talented singer and dancer, brings moments of joy to the workers through her singing at festivals and religious celebrations. Moonlight becomes a recurring image and a significant metaphor throughout the novel. The songs sung by the coolies emphasise their cultural significance and adds to the authenticity of the narrative.

After her husband’s death, Durgi’s life takes a complicated turn over the years—an intimate affair with Fraser, the white manager of the tea garden, results in the birth of three mixed race children. She becomes known as Durgi-mem and though Fraser pays utmost attention to her well-being, allotting her a separate cottage and farmland, things change dramatically when he leaves permanently and goes back to England.

Among the three children, the youngest one died of cholera. Fraser returned to England with his daughter who resembled his mother in appearance making false promises of her return. The only child left behind was the eldest. The boy is caught in the horns of a dilemma when he refuses to go far away and live in a hostel like many other mixed-race children. The unequal relationship between the white officials and their coolie concubines exposes another unspoken truth about plantation life. There are generations of similar children, many of whom, abandoned by their white ancestors, still live in Assam’s tea gardens today.

One interesting fact about this novel is the beautiful blend of fact and fiction. In the ‘acknowledgement’ section Kalita tells us how she was handed a slim volume written by a gentleman called Usman Gani narrating the life story of Durgi Bhumij and a few documents about her and requested her to write a novel on her life. Coincidentally, during that period she was researching on tea garden life and its people as one of the subjects for her new novel. So, though Durgi was a real-life character, and the people around her had deep roots in Assam, ultimately it was Kalita’s credit to turn it into an excellent work of fiction which became very popular and managed to receive the Sahitya Akademi Award too. The excellent translation of this Assamese novel into English done by Ranjita Biswas now brings the novel to a wider readership.

What is interesting in this story is how the novelist depicts life in a tea garden with minutest details while placing the story in a period when the independence movement from British rule along with Gandhi’s ideals of satyagraha was changing the social ambience in this region as well. The exploitation of plantation labour comes under increasing scrutiny, and workers begin to demand better conditions. Meanwhile Durgi also grows in prominence among the workers and becomes known to the new manager Fraser. Soon, these two worlds, once rigidly separated, begin to collide and ends with the killing of Durgi. So, while Kalita has woven the story around Durgi, at the same time she has meticulously portrayed other prominent people of Assam, the rebellion against colonial rule at a time when tea plantations flourished in Assam after the East India Company lost ground in China post the Opium War. This elevates the novel into a chronicle of the times too.

The epilogue serves as an interesting finale to the narrative when the first-person narrator tries to trace the whereabouts of Durgi’s daughter. After a lot of effort and attempts to tie loose information together, she manages to locate a ‘white girl’ at Rangachali Tea Garden, her last shelter and her fifth generation. This brings the story to end on a somewhat positive note, and the narrator promises to come back again with some gifts for the children there.

Read an excerpt at this link

Somdatta Mandal, critic and translator, is former professor of English at Visva-Bharati, Santiniketan, India.

PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Conversation

Beyond Borders: Writing and the Power of Stories

Keith Lyon converses with Jayanthi Sankar, a fiction writer who shares an excerpt from her story, Beyond Borders at the end of the interview.

Jananthi Sankar

Jayanthi Sankar is an author who explores history, identity and the human psyche through fiction shaped by her life across cultures. Her work reflects on writing, cultural difference, mentorship and the importance of creating space for emerging literary voices.

Keith Lyons (KL): Every writer has a unique starting point. When did you first realise that writing was more than just an interest for you, and how has that initial spark developed?

Jayanthi Sankar (JS): Years of passionate, continuous reading for pleasure led to an emerging voice of a critic deep within me, and I didn’t realise it. When I was debating with her over what I’d read, I ended up experimenting to experience how difficult it really is to write. They published the short fiction. And I didn’t know that would eventually give me the motivation to attempt a few more. It took me a few more years to write a dozen more before I started believing I should pursue writing.

KL: How do different cultural landscapes influence the themes you repeatedly explore in your work?

JS: I grew up in 15-16 places all over India owing to my father’s central government civil engineering job, until my mid-twenties when I migrated to Singapore. The exposure to diverse cultures during my formative years had organically shaped me to admire and adapt to cultural differences like a fish to water. Harmony lies more naturally on the edges of those differences, and I realised that only after I read seriously and began writing. Cultural landscapes weave naturally into my fictional world.

KL: What is your process for creating characters so they resonate with readers across different nationalities and backgrounds?

JS: I have noticed since my teens, I interacted with people not as me but as the other in front of me, and that perhaps innately equipped me with the ability to create credible characters. As I matured, I came to know that it has got to do not only with human psychology but also with empathy. While my characters unfold, those very close to me have observed I often think and talk like them because I live their lives.

KL: Your day job as an interpreter, how does that affect your ear for dialogue and understanding of how others view the world?

JS: The past three to four years of my current job have brought me the most profound understanding of migrant workers. Knowing their lives, challenges, and views often repeatedly makes me realise what a privileged life I have. Since listening is an integral part of my job, the dialogues become contextually crucial.

KL: How do you determine the ‘size of the canvas’ for a new idea, and do you find that different languages or cultures demand different narrative structures?

JS: The canvas mostly widens as the chapters unfold, and while rewriting, we could always chisel as required, as I did in my short fiction ‘Punkah Wallah’ in my collection Dangling Gandhi. The story’s seed sprouted within me when I was merely 13 or 14 years old.

I remember hearing one of my dad’s friends share, “a young lad born a deaf and dumb from our village in remote Punjab was taken to far away Malaya to be a fan man.” I showed no signs of becoming a writer in the future. It had stayed deep in me to surface nearly 30-odd years later. I set my character driven story in the colonial Singapore of the early twentieth century that had ample scope for depicting cultural, political climate. The time period of the setting brought about language variations in character building as well as the narrative structures that could bring in novelty and engagement.

KL: What insights have you gained about narrative structures from different cultures and traditions, and how can you use them to tell a story better?

JS: Several of my reader friends have said that by reading my fiction, they knew Singapore as if they’d already visited the place. When blended with the cultural nuances and slang of the land, any local issue becomes more convincingly relatable, and the stories reach readers better. As for readers from other lands, not only is the cultural flavour introduced to them, but it invites them to experience the land just as we, as readers, know Moscow from Russian literature, as if we’ve lived there.

KL: What was the primary motivation behind establishing the Jay Yes Foundation, and what specific gaps in the literary world were you hoping to fill?

JS: I have mentored, formally and informally, several aspiring young writers, including Liu Fang from Hong Kong, whose story travelled to the northeastern parts of India, and another, Sascha Wynn from Boston, who had a character of Indian ethnicity. And I experienced an incomparable sense of fulfilment. Helping them with their developmental editing and cultural checks also widened my perspectives, decades ago, and that was the beginning. I felt joyous watching their manuscripts evolve. And now the foundation has entered the next stage of giving a name and identity to the initiatives.

KL: Supporting unpublished writers is a core pillar of your work. In your experience, what are the biggest challenges these writers face today, and how does the foundation help them navigate those obstacles?

JS: As an emerging writer myself, decades ago, I stopped reading details as soon as I saw the submission guidelines mentioned. I’ve observed many of my mentees retreat when the call has fees to read. Not because they can’t afford but they naturally feel their stories are worth the read, and it feels discouraging to pay to be read. Any emerging writer would feel respected if a jury read their writing. So, the foundation continues to create opportunities like this year’s international contest.

KL: The foundation’s mission mentions building ‘sustainable literary communities’. What does a truly sustainable community look like to you in modern publishing?

JS: A writing community can sustain longer only with continuity in reading and writing at an individual level. Continuity is the key. Just one submission and the aspirant write only after two years for another doesn’t bring the needed traction. That’s why the Foundation does not stop at contests and podcasts; it continues to bring other opportunities as well without submission fees to the pool of writers it has already created.

KL: Many literary initiatives rely on entry fees for sustainability, but your foundation has chosen a different path. Can you share the philosophy behind this commitment to free entry for emerging writers?

JS: This year’s jurors have believed me when I said that the foundation aspires to set an example of how dedicated investment of time and expertise can encourage emerging writers. But for the support of Zero-Degree Publishing, such philosophies are bound to remain as dreams. Monetary investment might bring in transactional elements like charging an entry fee, or another fee for publishing the anthology that might reduce focus on the creative side of the initiative. There are so many out there calling to submit first without even telling the writer what’s coming next. I had my experience many years ago; one of my submissions was long-listed, they discussed payment to move the story forward.

KL: The International Jay Yes Short Story Contest 2026 is a significant undertaking. What led you to choose “Seeking Refuge: Stories of Displacement” as the central theme for the contest?

JS: Displacements have been part of my growing up, although I didn’t even know the impact it would have later on in my thoughts process and also writing. Forced or chosen, displacements have all the scope for exploring human lives, whether to seek refuge or to survive. After a brief discussion, the jury unanimously agreed on the theme. The theme also suited the contest, planned to go global.

KL: You’ve expressed a desire for stories that are bold and moving. When you are reviewing submissions, what is that elusive quality that makes a piece of writing truly stand out for you?

JS: If the ending leaves me pondering longer, stays long with me, I’d call it that. A loose ending does that better than a conclusive one. A genuine human voice in the AI era would touch my heart and most certainly the storytelling. Stories often begin fairly well, I’ve noticed, but aspirants get lost in the ending. Dramatic, cinematic, preachy endings are so common, and that’s where resting and rewriting might help. The jury assessed entries fabulously this time.  

KL: From anthologies to podcasts, you use various platforms to share stories. How do you see the relationship between traditional publishing and these newer digital formats developing for emerging writers?

JS: E-Books and audiobooks are trending, and like physical books, they can be self-published or traditionally published. Creativity through natural intelligence deserves celebration and preservation regardless of the format it gets published. Using tools to display originality is better than using tools for the creative process itself. Digital or physical, as humans, let’s tell stories of humanity with relatable humaneness.

KL: How does the foundation’s work help create a world where literary voices reach audiences regardless of nationality or financial standing?

JS: Since my childhood, I’ve observed people of different cultures, cuisines, and languages across regions and countries, yet the values, ethics, hunger, anger, pain, and pleasure remain the same for every human. The success of this year’s contest has shown beautifully how creativity has no such restrictions, such borders. Nurturing natural intelligence has always been the core of the initiatives by the Jay Yes Foundation.

Keith Lyons (keithlyons.net) is an award-winning writer and creative writing mentor originally from New Zealand who has spent a quarter of his existence living and working in Asia including southwest China, Myanmar and Bali. His Venn diagram of happiness features the aroma of freshly-roasted coffee, the negative ions of the natural world including moving water, and connecting with others in meaningful ways. A Contributing Editor on Borderless Journal’s Editorial Board, his work has appeared in Borderless since its early days, and his writing featured in the anthology Monalisa No Longer Smiles.

An Excerpt from ‘Beyond Borders’ by Jayanthi Sankar

 With moist, dismayed eyes a foreign worker in clothes mildly smeared with grease and paint stood first in the growing queue. Pusillanimously lost in thought he looked like a Bangladeshi, Anu guessed.    

Just behind the Bangladeshi, a middle-aged rotund Chinese man was leaning on the side rails with two sizeable red plastic red shopping bags placed near his feet. Oblivious to the surrounding, he was busy talking on his mobile, thanking and laughing with exaggerated courtesy, “Háiméiyǒu, xièxiè.”

The moment Anu saw her son’s eyes sparkling brighter, she knew the reason, and she’d guessed it right. Crawling on one of the large plastic bags carried by a Chinese man was a huge fly that caught the keen attention of ten-year-old Kani. He couldn’t take his eyes off.

As always, Anu was fascinated by his interest displayed even before he’d turned one. From as early as seven months he used to look for tiny ants and insects in the corners of the marble floor and follow them crawling on fours. Though rare, they never failed to catch his attention. Flying insects thrilled him all the more. Long before he could say the word, “Amma,” to call her, he’d learned to say ‘Poochchi[1]’ in Tamil, which made history becoming the first word he learned to speak.

Eager to continue where they’d left their conversation just before leaving home, Anu asked her husband, “And Somu, what did that Pinoy colleague of yours exactly say to anger you that much? Somu, you didn’t tell me the details.”

Excited, wide-eyed Somu said, “He had the cheek to say right on my face without them our country will cease to function. Can you believe that, Anu?”

Although the haze due to the conflagration in the Sumatran forests seemed to have reduced to healthy levels, about six or seven out of the ten migrant faces wore the N9 masks.

“He means, without the Filipinos?”

“I am sure he must have meant all foreign workers in general. I couldn’t stand his temerity, you know. Seething through, I was intensely searing inside.” She just nodded looking at his face.

Somu’s cute chubby face was becoming more and more rounded with his receding hairline, she thought. His black curls highlighted his already fair complexion.

As if muttering to herself Anu looked around, “Humans seem to push the days of the week just for their weekend, when they live their lives.” The queues were suddenly getting longer, she observed.

The bus interchange was filling with an erratic mixture of children shrieking, loud laughter of young people in groups, buses maneuvering and halting, bus doors opening and closing.

Mandarin, Tamil, Malay, Tagalog, Hokkien, and Bangla heard here and there were certainly not mellifluous, but an intriguing babel. The aroma of the satay from the nearby hawker wafted along with the breeze.

The breeze bore the message of the approaching showers. The slowly gathering dark clouds not just dimmed the sunlight but suddenly increased the humidity.

Being the first few in the line waiting for route number 960, getting seats of their choice was not difficult.

The Bangladeshi worker walked straight to the back and took the left window seat of the long row of last seats.

Keeping his sight on the fly, Kani walked ahead but slowly.

“He went on saying things like they are a cheerful and contented bunch even with lower wages.”

“Lower?” Anu asked with an intrigued expression.

“Yeah lah! Their wages are somewhat lower than ours.”

“True,” she agreed.

The stout Chinese man placed the bags purposely on the adjacent seat so that the foreign workers boarding behind wouldn’t be able to occupy the seat near him.

Watching the fly, Kani stood there blocking the way for the other passengers. Anu hurriedly pulled him along. “Isn’t it just a common house fly, maybe just larger?” Somu hushed. They moved to the rear. Kani’s focus remained on the fly as he reluctantly walked turning his head backward. “No.”

As the bus exited at the Woodlands interchange, Somu continued, “You know Anu, I couldn’t help telling him, why don’t you go back since you get paid low here. But he left the place abruptly without saying much although he did tell I must learn to be happy.”

“You?”

“He meant us, Singaporeans,” Somu said lowering his voice. “I think.”

Near the exit, seated at the center of the bus the three domestic workers dressed in their weekend best, dolled up in all accessories, started watching videos happily, ready to enjoy their off day. One of them answered a call, “One angparaan, sanaymaging late,” assuring their punctuality to the friends on the other side.

Seated right behind his parents, next to the Bangladeshi worker, Kani kept getting up restlessly from his seat to look at the fly.

When a plump middle-aged Malay woman boarded at the Marsiling station, one of the foreign workers seated behind the driver spontaneously got up to give her the seat. The lady hesitated for a second and was about to lumber her way to the back when the other guy at the window seat followed suit. Happily, she sat on the aisle seat keeping all her bags and belonging on the window seat before she started looking out of the window.

Taking a look around within the bus, Anu said, “It’s fine, Somu. Not like you’d feared. I can even see a few empty seats.”

“You don’t know, darling. This bus really gets crowded on Sundays. We could have gone Diwali shopping next weekend after our car is back from servicing,” he sulked.

“Oh come on. Look at him! Kani seems to be enjoying the bus ride.”

“If not for the parking woes in Little India area, I wouldn’t choose to travel in this bus,” he sulked for the third time. “especially during the weekend.”

When the fly flew to the rear, it landed on the tab the domestic worker was holding. She jumped and shooed it off with a loud giggle. Her two friends joined in the amusement.

Kani got excited and shrieked, “Pa, look he is flying this way!” Suddenly feeling shy for having expressed loudly, he sat on his seat quietly observing.

The insect had comfortably settled on the glass window near the exit. Fixing his gaze on the fly, Kani sat calmly, glancing at other things once in a while. He shared his discovery, “Musca domestica,” tugging at his mother’s shoulder from the back of her seat. He pointed to the fly when Anu turned from the front seat to smile at him.

After the first few stops, at the Kranji station, foreign workers boarded in groups.

Somu gave her a, “I told you!” kind of a look.

“Kani needs to see some real world, at least, once in a while,” Anu smiled gathering the locks of hair and tugging them behind her ears with her right hand.

There was an empty seat after the exit. A tall and slender looking Chinese woman who’d boarded looked around, extended her hand with a pointed finger, “Go and sit there, lah.” The construction worker appeared to be a Tamil guy got up like an obedient student and moved to the back. With a haughty expression, “Thank you,” she said curtly, almost half-heartedly.

“What do you mean Anu?” Somu chided with a laugh. “Don’t tell me that only crowded bus rides are real life.”

“Not exactly,” Anu beamed. “But in a way yes.”

Many were startled when the Malay woman, in her attempt to alight at the Bukit Panjang CC advanced to the back saying, “Cannot taahan this anymore. Why are these people so smelly?” Right after getting off the bus, she threw an angry expression at the bus from where she stood.

“Ma, why is that old lady rankling for no apparent reason?”

“Hush, hush, no. Are you bored? Want my mobile?”

“No,” he said and went back to watch the big fly.

As the bus entered the BKE, most of them got busy texting. Most of them dozed off in their seats. The bus suddenly quietened.

The two high housing board blocks of flats followed by a few private condominiums beyond the green wilds, on the right disappeared within minutes.

The long terrain ride with the lush natural habitat on either side of the expressway, as always brought a serene feeling, Anu thought.

“Oh my God! I took the wrong set of shopping bags! I didn’t buy these live crabs,” the Chinese man suddenly jolted. He held up the tied bag with a large partially visible creepy crab within.

He stood up to go near the driver. “You have to get off at the Tanglin CC and cross the road via the overhead bridge and board a bus back to Bukit Panjang,” the driver said calmly, smartly kept his eyes on the road.

Kani was eager to have a look at the crab from near, but Somu said, “No need to go all the way there. We are speeding in the expressway, Kani. It’s enough to look from here. I thought you were scared of crabs,” he chuckled.

“Of course, I wouldn’t dare touch it, pa. Thought of talking a closer look. The crab looks unique,” Kani said but sat back in his seat.

The Bangladeshi worker was sincerely trying hard to look away from the young Anglo Chinese couple in secret and mild canoodle at the right end of the long back seat. He’d been talking seriously to someone for more than ten minutes. Sensing the network was bound to go erratic in the PIE, he winded up his conversation smartly, “Jaanish. Achchaa, thaarpor kotha bolbo, han?”

The road widening works near the exit to Eng Neo Avenue and Adams Road suddenly reminded the passengers of the city life.

“You look ravishing in this sari,” Somu whispered in Anu’s ear.

“And you’ve said that umpteen times, Somu. I still can’t forget the day you stood at the shop dead against me choosing this one.” Reminiscing, they laughed together and turned to look behind, at Kani.

Much familiar with the expressway, traffic, the downtown line works along the Bukit Timah Road, Kani was observed all that he could, mostly within the bus as if he might never a get another chance to travel by bus.

Once along Whitley Road, the louring urban face of the city showed. “This comes under the suborder Cyclorrhapha,” Kani bent down to whisper into Somu’s ears. The father forced a smile and looked at the fly.

The Chinese man holding the large shopping bags alighted, grumbling.

With not many passengers boarding or alighting, the bus streamlined through the Bukit Timah Road.

When the bus reached Little India bus stop, most of the commuters alighted. “Bus ride was damn interesting, Pa,” Kani mused as he got down. Though sunny, the roads glittered wet. The rains had just stopped.

Not losing sight of the Bangladeshi worker who’d also alighted, Kani told his parents to wait for a few minutes. When Anu pulled him, he said, “Ma, please wait just for a few minutes.”

“Can I have a few dollars, Pa?” he said hurriedly keeping an eye on the foreign worker.

Taking out his wallet from his pant pocket, Somu asked impatiently, “But what do you need money so urgently for?” Kani pulled out a ten dollar note.

He pointed at the Bangladeshi standing with a lost expression on his face. “He needs to top up his EZ link, Pa. I heard him cry over the phone. He is broke and in a dire state.”

“Don’t tell me you can understand his language.”

“Oh, I’ve been picking their language for more than a year,” he said. Always observing, he would smile and wave at the Bangladeshi workers who cleared the garbage chute and cleaned the common areas. But Anu never expected him to have learnt their language.

Kani swiftly went near the foreign worker and asked, “Where do you want to go?”

“Paya Lebar,” said the foreign worker, looking at Kani a little hesitantly.

With all kindness, Kani said softly and slowly, “You take the train to Bugis from here. And, from there you board the green line towards Pasir Ris, you understand?” The Bangladeshi just nodded shyly.

Gently, Kani thrust the ten dollar note into his hand and hopped back to join his parents. As if trying to prevent them from looking at the Bangladeshi, he pulled them both by his hands. Curiously, he turned to look and was titillated to see the housefly riding on the tattered backpack of the Bangladeshi worker. “Eureka! Single pair of wings! Comes under the higher classification of Diptera,” Kani squealed


[1]Poochchi – A generic term to refer to any kind of insect.

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PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Interview

The Global Story of Plants, People and Plastic

Keith Lyons in conversation with Helen Townsend, an environmental entrepreneur and a plant enthusiast

Helen Townsend speaking to women at Girls-in-STEM that aims to close gender gap in science in 2026. Photo sourced by Keith Lyons

Helen Townsend has spent her career uncovering the connections between people, plants and the planet. From working with herbarium collections in Nepal and Bangladesh to leading campaigns against single-use plastics and creating nature-based toys for children, the environmental entrepreneur has come to see climate change, biodiversity loss and waste as deeply interconnected global challenges. In this interview, she reflects on the power of plants, the importance of global responsibility, and why reconnecting children with nature may be one of our greatest reasons for hope.

Keith Lyons (KL): How did you find yourself in Nepal and Bangladesh, and what did you do there?

Helen Townsend (HT): In 2006 I was working in the herbarium of the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh on a project digitising African plant specimens. The aim of the project was to increase African botanists’ access to their countries’ important specimens which had been collected during colonial exploration and taken to the UK. In 2009, the project expanded to Asia, and I went to Nepal to train staff and set up the digitising project at the National Herbarium of Kathmandu. I also spent six months in Bangladesh volunteering at a girls’ school in Dhaka.

KL: How were your experiences in those places influence your awareness of environmental issues which are both linked with modern society and global?

HT: While growing up in New Zealand and living in the UK, I knew we used too much plastic packaging and tried to avoid it but it was when I was in Nepal and Bangladesh and saw plastic rubbish on the streets and in the rivers that I started to realise the scale of the plastic pollution problem. In New Zealand we produce so much more rubbish than people in Nepal and Bangladesh but because it’s collected weekly and taken away, we never have to confront the environmental impact of our purchasing choices.

KL: What fascinates you about plants?

HT: Plants are beautiful, especially trees! But the more I learn about them the more interesting they become. Plants are often seen as the backdrop to a scenic view or ‘nice to haves’ for people living in cities but they are absolutely essential not only for the survival of all life but also for our physical, mental and emotional well-being.

How has this interest run through your study, work and approach?

HT: Both of my businesses have tackled systemic issues by providing alternatives to single-use plastics and reconnecting kids with nature. These issues are directly related to protecting the environment and helping parents pass on their love of nature to their kids.

KL: What broader lessons have you learned from working with plant collections, botanical gardens and herbariums?

HT: Working on projects to return botanist’s access to plant specimens taught me how interconnected societal problems are and how our current problems are grounded in colonial and capitalist thinking. Europeans taking plant specimens from Africa and Asia in the 1800s directly impacts the work of today’s botanists from those areas. In the same way, climate change and the biodiversity crisis have been caused by rich countries’ exploitation, again taking more than their share of nature and resources.

KL: Waste is often seen as a local issue, whether it be plastic, uncollected rubbish, dumping, or pollution in waterways. Why do you see it as a global issue?

HT: Billion-dollar companies headquartered in the USA or Europe take oil from the Middle East and turn it into plastic to be made into products in China which are then shipped to New Zealand. After we’ve used the product, we put our plastic ‘recycling’ out to be collected, and it’s shipped to Indonesia where it contributes to enormous landfills contaminating the land, water ways, oceans and health of communities we will never visit.

This is not an accident. It is a planned devaluing of the global south so rich countries can continue to consume overpackaged and unnecessary junk to make a few people extremely wealthy. If we look at waste as a local issue, we can pat ourselves on the back for taking part in a beach clean-up, while ignoring the capitalist system that created the inequality and environmental destruction of countries we do our best not to think about.

KL: What initiatives have you been involved in which have looked for solutions to problems, and how did you go about turning ideas into action?

HT: After returning to New Zealand, I set up a company called ‘The Rubbish Whisperer’ to provide replacements to single-use plastics. I made reusable produce bags and introduced paper straws to cafes and restaurants in New Zealand, advocating for straws on request. Providing reusable alternatives was an important component in the grass roots movement to eliminate single-use plastics. Working alongside activists, scientists and community groups, we were successful in achieving New Zealand’s 2019 ban on single-use plastic bags and restrictions on plastic straws.

Now I have a company called ‘Sustained Fun’, the world’s first climate change focused toy company. Toys are vital to climate change because they teach social norms and shaped how kids see the world. The toy industry works on a fast fashion business model and is training kids to be over-consumers of cheap, disposable plastic junk. If we want adults who care about the environment, we need kids to learn how to love nature. Luckily all this entails is to get kids out into it! We make fun and sustainable toys and games that encourage kids and families to connect with nature.


Anthea Bell and Helen Townsend, co-founders of Sustained Fun with their reusable water-balloons. Photo sourced by Keith Lyons

KL: When it often seems that environmental problems can feel overwhelming, what gives you hope?

HT: This is something I struggle with a lot. It doesn’t always feel like things are getting better. I make an effort to seek out positive news and connect with others who are excited about nature and are making a positive impact. Running ‘Sustained Fun’ also gives me hope as I can help to create a more positive future for kids and families.

KL: What helped shaped your perspective and desire to make a difference?

HT: I’m not sure. I don’t understand why everyone wouldn’t want to make a difference? We all want swimmable rivers, clean beaches, forests, amazing animals and breathable air. And, especially for those of us from rich, privileged countries, it’s our responsibility to make sure a healthy environment is there for all people and the next generation.

KL: If someone could see the world through your eyes just for one day, what do you think they would notice differently?

HT: Plants! Instead of seeing plants as a green backdrop, they would see them as the view, noticing which ones are native and which are invasive. They’d look at deforested hillsides and imagine them covered in mature forests. They’d look at a polluted estuary and see it teeming with life. Wherever I go, I imagine what it used to look like before we cut down the trees and what it will look like again, once we’ve restored them.

KL: What kind of world would you hope today’s young people inherit?

HT: I would love it if every year wildlife numbers increased so that when young people look back at 2026, they are amazed at how far we’ve come. I can’t wait for my grandchildren to say to me ‘I can’t believe you were excited to see one whale in the harbour, I often see hundreds’. 

KL: If you could leave one message for readers around the world, regardless of where they live, what would it be?

HT: Do more and speak up. We need to move swiftly and urgently to prevent the worst effects of climate change and stop biodiversity loss. Whatever your skills, experience and profession, turn them to protecting the environment. And if you have kids, teach them to love the environment by getting them out into nature as often as possible!

Links

https://sustainedfun.com

Keith Lyons (keithlyons.net) is an award-winning writer and creative writing mentor originally from New Zealand who has spent a quarter of his existence living and working in Asia including southwest China, Myanmar and Bali. His Venn diagram of happiness features the aroma of freshly-roasted coffee, the negative ions of the natural world including moving water, and connecting with others in meaningful ways. A Contributing Editor on Borderless Journal’sEditorial Board, his work has appeared in Borderless since its early days, and his writing featured in the anthology Monalisa No Longer Smiles.

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PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Interview

Erik Kennedy: Crossings, Preoccupations and Poetry

Keith Lyons converses with Erik Kennedy

Erik Kennedy

What does it mean to write poetry in an age of climate crisis, internet overload, and late-stage capitalism? Few writers tackle those questions with as much intelligence, humour, and urgency as Erik Kennedy. The acclaimed contemporary poet talks about finding his voice, life in another hemisphere, the pleasures of performance, and why writing remains central to how he makes sense of the world.

For readers who may be discovering your work for the first time, could you tell us a little about yourself and the kinds of writing you write?

I’m Erik Kennedy, a poet, critic, editor, and performer in
Ōtautahi Christchurch in Aotearoa New Zealand. I’m originally from New Jersey, but everything good I’ve ever written was produced here. My three books are There’s No Place Like the Internet in Springtime (2018), Another Beautiful Day Indoors (2022), and Sick Power Trip (2025), all with Te Herenga Waka University Press. My first and third books were shortlisted for best book of poetry in New Zealand’s national book awards, the Ockhams. I also co-edited an anthology of climate change poetry from Aotearoa and the Pacific called No Other Place to Stand (Auckland University Press, 2022).

How do you describe your poetry? 

In a recent fellowship application, I wrote that with my style I am ‘intense, wry, and willing to seem unhinged if it makes the writing real’. That seems fair. The adjectives ‘political’ and ‘funny’ are often thrown around in discussions of my poems. I think I have taken a more solemn turn with my recent work, especially in Sick Power Trip and in the manuscript I’m working on now. Subjects I return to over and over include climate collapse, the internet, labour, illness, warfare, addiction, and dysfunctional late capitalism. I try to use every tool in the poet’s toolbox: free verse, rhyme, collage, prose and hybrid forms, personas, etc. As a poet you get to shapeshift; I try not to forget that.

I also enjoy writing criticism, and I think I’m good at it, but it’s not something I’m driven to do unless I’m asked by an editor. (Hit me up, editors.)

When did writing first become important to you, and do you remember the moment you thought, ‘I’d like to do this for a living’?

I have never thought that I can write for a living! I do various kinds of work, including as an editor in book publishing, but I don’t expect the kind of writing I do to buy me truffles and Audis. 

When did I first realise that I wanted writing to be a central part of my life? I was about thirteen when I started to write really seriously, autodidact-ing myself into a position where I started to have a style and ambitions. I was the classic teen poet filling notebooks with poems that, mercifully, remain in what Thomas Gray would call ‘dark, unfathomed caves’. I have never really looked back. Writing is a vital part of how I live. Of how I process the world and the things that happen in it. I have always produced new writing, except in periods of personal turmoil, and in those circumstances I think the not-writing made things even worse. 

What kind of work have you done in this space, and how has it shaped your writing?

In an earlier period of my life I was doing a PhD in English at Princeton, and while I didn’t complete it (by writing what surely would have been a tragically uninspired dissertation), the many years I spent at the coalface of literature and history at universities were not wasted. There is a part of me that still thinks that The Poet Who Knows Lots of Stuff is the ideal artist.

Being a copyeditor is an underrated literature-adjacent job. I know loads of writers who teach creative writing (it’s not for me), and that obviously makes you think constantly about how texts work, but there is something about the technical, competence-driven, problem-solving nature of copyediting that I have always found appealing. I like coming up with answers! Every book you work on upskills you in one way or another. That’s so valuable. I’d like to point out that AI is not coming for copyeditors any time soon. The sheer amount of random facts, hunches, preferences, and human judgements involved in copyediting a book definitely makes it a craft for flesh-and-blood knowledge workers.

Also, I have edited poetry for litmags for years. There is simply no better way of seeing what writers are actually doing than by reading hundreds or thousands of real-life examples of contemporary writing. Editing offers you examples of writing to emulate and to react against. It’s also a crucial part of a writer’s moral education; people are entrusting you with important parts of themselves, and as an editor you have a responsibility to treat their work with care and respect.

What readers/listeners do you most like writing for?

I feel really fortunate to have a thriving literary scene on my doorstep, quite a lot of it grounded in performance. I have gained so much by trying to make my work resonate with live audiences, who of course only get to experience the text once, via my voice and expressions. (Also, I was a theatre kid, and I just really like performing.) Page versus stage is a false dichotomy, but page plus stage is a great way of thinking about making work that draws people in. Publication is always my goal with my poems, but I also want to entertain, to commune with real people I can see and chat with. So in some ways the reader I have in my head when I write is a punter at a reading series. These people have been wonderful barometers for me over the years.

You grew up in the US and now live in New Zealand. How has this influenced your outlook? 

I can imagine my answer to a question like this being shown to me by agents in some dismal room at Newark Airport. Let’s just say that I am glad that I am where I am. Also, I have published work that probably makes the points I wish to make better than I can make them here.

Where does your writing usually begin: with a character, a situation, a question, or something else entirely?

A line. I am a compulsive notes app user. I raid my poem ideas document all the time.

What does your writing routine look like, and what conditions help you do your best work?

‘Routine’, lol. As is the case with many poets, I would say that there are certain aspects of executive function that I don’t excel at. So my process can look a little chaotic. I try to set myself up for success with my note-making habits. And I work on things when the moment feels right. I am opportunistic, a jackal who doesn’t miss a trick if a corpse is nearby. I only occasionally sit down with the intent to write. (It does work sometimes, though, which feels like finding $50 on the ground.) Walking is a great imaginative stimulant for me; we could call that an important part of my routine. I’m like a moustached twenty-first-century Wordsworth.

Every writer faces difficult days. What helps you keep writing when inspiration is absent or a manuscript feels stuck?

If I haven’t produced anything vaguely satisfactory for a fortnight or so I start to feel so inadequate and despondent that not writing doesn’t even feel like an option. I suppose if, despite my best efforts, I ever get full-on writer’s block, I will dissolve into a dejected slime. Let’s hope it doesn’t come to that.

What aspect of the writing craft took you the longest to master, and what did that journey teach you?

The dark art of ordering a poetry manuscript—of making disparate elements into a coherent whole—is something I will always want to get better at. It is hard. My most recent book, Sick Power Trip, feels of-a-piece in a way that neither of my first two books did, because I set out to make it that way and because I allowed my preoccupations to come through. Maybe what I’ve learned is that artists need preoccupations. I am thinking about artistic unity earlier in the process now. Is this good? Maybe. Do I feel I’ve cracked the case? No.

What role does reading play in your life as a writer, and are there particular authors or books you return to for inspiration?

I don’t like the name-your-influences game because 1) my influences change all the time and 2) I am terrified of offending someone by not mentioning them. 

Anyway, it all starts with reading. Sure, living is useful too, but I’ve always found that an encounter with the right text at the right time is transformative, alarming (in a good way). It’s like a nineteenth-century galvanist is jolting me with electricity. 

I do a lot of reading for professional purposes (keeping up with what’s coming out), so I sometimes must remind myself to let my fancy wander and read . . . whatever the hell I want. Another thing I need to remind myself to do is to read things on my TBR pile! You bought these books, you idiot, maybe you should look at them. A constant problem.

What has surprised you most about the experience of being a published author?

I’m always amazed that people take the time to write to me out of the blue. I can only imagine what it’s like if you’re, you know, actually a big deal writer. 

How do you navigate self-doubt, rejection, or the inevitable setbacks that come with a creative career?

I am a world-class user of defence mechanisms. 

What is the most valuable piece of writing advice you have ever received?

I find that the example set by other writers I admire, especially peers, is more motivating to me than maxims. It’s more valuable to me to observe the ups and downs of other people’s careers than to hear, like, ‘the brain is a muscle—exercise it’.

What advice would you give to aspiring writers?

Make sure you like writing, not just having written. I think there are some truly terrible temptations available to writers who want to get to the end product too quickly. (Yes, I am talking about generative AI.) But if you really do like writing, then probably nothing will stop you. I believe in you. We are so lucky to work in an artform that requires very few material inputs. I don’t need a tuba or big canvases or a theatre to do what I do. Life presents obstacles—of course it does—but in theory literature can be such a democratic artform.

If you could go back and have a conversation with the writer you were before your first book was published, what would you tell them?

You were a ‘real writer’ then, even if you barely felt like one. Having books doesn’t make you a writer. Writing does.

You can read two poems from Sick Power Trip by clicking here.

Keith Lyons (keithlyons.net) is an award-winning writer and creative writing mentor originally from New Zealand who has spent a quarter of his existence living and working in Asia including southwest China, Myanmar and Bali. His Venn diagram of happiness features the aroma of freshly-roasted coffee, the negative ions of the natural world including moving water, and connecting with others in meaningful ways. A Contributing Editor on Borderless Journal’sEditorial Board, his work has appeared in Borderless since its early days, and his writing featured in the anthology Monalisa No Longer Smiles.

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PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Essay

Homecoming

By Larry S. Su

I left China in 1997 with little more than youthful ambition and the resilience my parents had instilled in me. Since then, the United States has become my second home, first as an international student and later as a naturalised citizen. In nearly three decades, I have returned to my hometown five times, each visit less a simple trip than a pilgrimage, rich with memory, loss, and renewal. Of these, three homecomings stand out most vividly, moments when the presence of my parents, siblings, and villagers reminded me of who I am and where I come from. In their sacrifice, hard work, and quiet endurance, I found lessons in resilience and gratitude that reach beyond my own life and speak to something universal.

Home Visit in 1999    

My hometown lies in Heyang County, Shaanxi Province, about fifteen miles from the county seat and five miles from the nearest town. In my memory, a winding dirt road served as the village’s lifeline, linking it with surrounding towns and villages. Though not entirely cut off, the village remained relatively remote, as public transportation was non-existent at the time. To the east and west stretched deep gorges and ravine carved by centuries of rain and snow. Three miles to the north rose Mount Liang, the county’s highest peak, towering yet desolate.

Approximately thirty families, around one hundred and twenty residents, called this village home. The village unfolded along two streets which were riddled with potholes throughout the year. In dry weather, stirred up by the robust northwest wind, a pervasive layer of dust enveloped the streets and the villagers in swirling dances. Conversely, during the rainy season, the thoroughfare turned into a muddy quagmire, making passage difficult.  The villagers had to throw in discarded bricks, stones, or fragments of decaying planks to make a makeshift path. Dump sites, replete with smoldering wood, fallen branches, and both animal and human waste, cluttered the sides of the streets. There were very few trees, making the village barren and dreary.

The dwellings varied between mud or brick caves, with a few select families having brick and wood houses when they first settled here. Whatever they were, they had lost their usual shape and colour due to the relentless beating from rain and wind.

Mud caves. Photo Courtesy: Larry Su

We lived in two cave dwellings dug into a high cliff, about three hundred feet from the village street. In front of them lay a small dirt yard, where sheds housed our pigs, ox, chickens, and rabbits. The yard also held the latrine, a simple pit enclosed by dirt walls, whose stench, especially on warm or hot days, often drifted into our living spaces.

This is my hometown, where I was born and lived for eighteen years before leaving for college in Xi’an, the provincial capital, in 1983. I studied English literature at Xi’an International Studies University, earning both my BA and MA degrees, and later joined the faculty of its English Department. I remained there until 1997 when I left for the United States.

Inundated by academic work in graduate school and lack of financial constraints, I did not plan any home visit during my two years of studies in the United States. However, the sudden death of a drunkard in the rooming house I shared with a few American students hastened my decision to make a visit to China.  

As a newcomer to the culture, I never linked the drunkard’s brown bags or bulky coat to the heavy drinking that would claim his life. His body was discovered days later, only after the foul smell crept through the air ducts and into our rooms. It happened three weeks before the semester’s end. Fearing I would soon be alone in that eerie house and weighed down by eighteen months of separation from my wife, son, and parents, I hastily bought a plane ticket back to China.    

My three-week visit to China was brief, quiet, and deeply comforting. I was overjoyed to see my loved ones and longed to linger in those carefree days, away from foreign foods, stacked books, and unfinished papers. My wife, also a faculty member of Xi’an International Studies University, went to Xianyang International Airport to welcome me back. We traveled by a slow train and a rattling farm tractor to reach my village home. Though I had gone only a short time, I noticed the brick caves, built fifteen years earlier to replace the old loess ones, were already losing mortar. A thin film of black grease from years of cooking stained the walls. Cold air seeped through the cracks in the doors and windows. The animal sheds, with broken doors and missing bricks, made the courtyard even colder and more desolate.

At meals, I noticed my father’s gnarled hands and heavy knuckles rubbed by decades of toil. The gray cotton padded coat was worn out on his shoulders and elbows. Around his waist was a thick hemp rope, the kind used to bundle corn stalks in the fields. Cinched tightly around his coat, it kept the biting wind from slipping in through the gaps, but it looked rough, even absurd. The cotton-padded shoes hand made by my mother were also tattered with cotton exposed. The towel he used to wear over his head in winter had totally lost its whiteness.  No doubt life was very hard for them.

During my year and a half in the United States, I spent most of my time in the library and rarely ventured beyond the college campus to see how Americans lived. Still, I caught glimpses of their lives. From visits to my professors’ homes, I saw spacious houses surrounded by trees, lawns, and flowers, with garages large enough for two or three cars. They wore casual yet high-quality clothes, and at parties served sandwiches, barbecued meats, salads, and red wine. Such abundance and variety were things I had never experienced before. Years later, when I owned my own house, I came to understand that Americans had achieved this standard of living after World War II, so I could not help but ask myself: Both Americans and Chinese are human beings, how could their lives be so different, with Americans enjoying plenty, modernity, and comfort, while the Chinese peasants endured poverty, primitiveness, and hardship?

The morning of our departure for Xi’an, my father carried my suitcase on his shoulder, his steps steady on the familiar dirt road, while my wife and I followed behind. The path, worn by years of passing feet and baked dry by windless days, had turned into a powdery film that rose with every footfall, stinging our eyes and filtering into our nostrils.  He glanced back and quietly suggested we move to the edges, where the earth was less trampled and the dust less suffocating. As we walked, the frosty wind whistled through the withered corn stalks, their hollow rustle echoing memories I could not keep down. 

I was pulled back to those early mornings two decades ago when my father and I walked this same road with a cart of potatoes. Nothing had changed in the region since then.  Now with each step, a heavy sadness settled over me. I looked around at the land that my parents lived on for most of their lives; its parched, colourless soil gave little and demanded much.

A few questions throbbed quietly inside me: How lucky I was to escape this poor land! If I had not made it to college, would I be living the same kind of life as my parents? What would be the future for my parents and siblings? When would they finally see a day of plenty, not like the Americans, but be able to eat wheat flour at every meal, not as a holiday luxury, but as an everyday certainty? The silence around us offered no answer, only the sound of the wind scraping through brittle stalks and the soft crunch of dust beneath our shoes.       

In less than half an hour, we reached the bus stop. The sun had yet to rise, and the morning air still clung to its chill, though the brisk walk had warmed our bodies. We stood by the roadside, the sky slowly paling, waiting for the van to appear over the horizon. I turned to my father and told him to head back home. He shook his head gently. “I’m not busy,” he said. “Waiting a few more minutes won’t hurt.” He stood beside us, his hands folded deep within his sleeves.

He stood there quietly, patient as ever, perhaps a little awkward too, never at ease in public spaces. Six feet tall and striking in his younger years, he had never learned to take pride in his height or in any part of himself. Life had worn it out of him. Decades of bowing to weather and labour had stripped away any sense of vanity, replacing it with a humility so deep it bordered on invisibility. He saw himself as nothing more than a poor peasant, a man whose only worth came from the work his hands could do in the fields or on the mountain slopes. In his eyes, he was always falling short, always inadequate, someone who never quite belonged unless tethered to a plow, a hoe, or a load on his back.         

We waited nearly twenty minutes before the van finally appeared, its headlights slicing through the pale morning mist. When the door creaked open, he stepped forward, lifted our suitcase in, greeted the driver with quiet courtesy, and said, “They are my son and daughter-in-law. They’re heading back to Xi’an.” Then he stepped back, just a pace or two, and stood off to the side, his tall frame silhouetted against the dim sky, waiting without a word. I leaned out and told him he could head home now. “It’s all right,” he replied softly, not moving.

As the van lurched forward, he began to wave slowly at first, then with greater insistence, as if trying to hold on for a moment longer. We waved back, again and again, until the village road curved and he vanished from view. That farewell, quiet and unceremonious, was the last time I would ever see him.

Home Visit in 2009

In August 2009, a year and half after my father’s death, my wife, son and I took a flight from Chicago to Shanghai to visit home. From 1999, when I last saw my father to this homecoming, ten years had passed, yet due to our tight financial situation, we were not able to visit my father and mother. Neither could I attend his funeral in 2007 due to the cost and the hassle of reapplying for a visa after the visit. So this home visit was long overdue.  It was a 14-hour flight, and I could not wait for the plane to touch down.       

The Shanghai Pudong International Airport was modern, spectacular and state-of-the-art. We waited for two hours to transfer to Xi’an, the nearest city to my wife’s hometown and mine.  We first stayed in my wife’s parents’ home for a few days, enjoying the comfort and hospitality my parents-in-law extended to us, but I was counting the days to be with my mother and siblings.

As the car was racing through the newly built highway, my heart was flying home faster than the wheels.  When it hit the county seat where my father and I sold potatoes thirty years ago, my heart was pounding faster.  I was gripped with a longing and anxiety that I was unable to describe in words. As the car got on the road from the town to the village, memories of the roadside landmarks came back to me: the scattered villages, the apple orchards, and the sudden curves of the road.  Now, the surface of the old road had been removed, and a new layer of asphalt had been laid on it. It was also lined with trees.  With the summer air and greenness all around, the surroundings were mellow and pleasant. 

When the car got to the edge of the big valley before it raced down the slope, I could see vaguely my village.  In five minutes, I would get home. My heart tightened and it kept tightening until I felt out of breath. In no time the car arrived at the west end of the village.  We almost missed it because the stone lion that was always stationed there had disappeared.  As I grew up, the lion was the landmark of the village, and the villagers would always stand there chatting and seeing traffic pass.

Now my feet touched the street I had long missed over the past decade. In my absence, both the houses and the streets had changed beyond recognition. The streets had been widened and cleared of debris. The old dirt houses had given way to brick and cement structures. The gateposts, once made of mud bricks with rough wooden planks for doors, had been replaced by sturdy gleaming metal gates.

The car parked outside the courtyard. My mother and the siblings ran excitedly outside. My mother was older and thinner but in good spirits, as she always was even though she suffered from poor health her entire life.  She stooped quite a bit and walked more slowly. Her once abundant hair had also become thin and silvery. My younger brother, my two sisters and their husbands had all changed their clothes for the welcome, but their brown faces, greying hair, and callous hands all gave them away, showing the crushing impact of years of hard labour on their bodies.  It was especially heart-breaking to see my two sisters, slightly fairer than their husbands, but still wore rough skin and tired expressions, looking older before their time.  They all helped to unpack the car and carried our big suitcases to the sitting room.

In the courtyard, my younger brother had built a new brick flat of three bedrooms.  The two on the sides were installed with doors and livable, but not the bigger one in the middle that would require a bigger, specially made door.  With the added bedrooms, the living space had been expanded.

I felt its spaciousness, but I also felt its emptiness and loss because of the absence of my father. When he was living and I was in college and graduate school for seven years, his presence in the courtyard filled it with warmth and love. I never failed to see him on the roadside waiting for me when I got off the vehicle. He guessed the dates and would always stand on the roadside to try his luck.  Some days he was disappointed when I failed to show up, but when he did see me, his face was all smiles.  He walked fast to carry whatever luggage I had. He excitedly exclaimed that he thought it was about time I should return home. He repeated this sentence for years. He put the luggage on the floor of the kitchen, sat in silent contentment at the edge of the Kang[1], and quietly smoked his water pipe while mom was preparing food.  I could see that among his life-long laborious hustle and bustle this was the most relaxing and enjoyable moment for him. 

For all my years in school from the first grade to graduate school, he never asked what I was learning and how I did it — not that he was not interested or did not care. Given his taciturn nature and lack of education, he felt he was not equipped to inquire about my progress. He knew he could count on me to do well in school. His lack of words conveyed more of his love and expectation than any language could express.

Now he was gone. It must have been very hard for my mother to face the days and nights without him. For more than forty years of marriage, my father bore the burden of most of the fieldwork so that my mother, always in fragile health, could remain at home, focusing on making clothes and preparing meals for us children. Their life together, though often marked by conflicts born of poverty, was sustained by a shared sense of duty to raise five children and to hold on to hope for the future. With her partner gone, the strong shoulder she had leaned on for forty-six years was no longer there. The loneliness must have been overwhelming.

I looked forward to being by her side in this difficult time, but I was also weary of the return. After all these hard years, I finally made it, becoming a professor in an American university. The status of a well-educated intellectual teaching in a Chinese college was enough to call for admiration, let alone a professor teaching in America.  Even today, the mention of America would create in listeners associations with wealth, money, status, and superiority, yet could I have delayed my father’s death? Could I have done more for him and the family? What could I have done differently? At the bottom of my heart, I felt embarrassment, regret and guilt.                

We were led into the sitting room of the new house which my younger brother had built. Right on the wall of the sitting room, I saw a big canvas portrait of my father’s bust my close friend asked made for his funeral. I stared at that picture.  All the emotions that had been pent up within me seemed to explode. I sobbed with tears pouring down my face. The picture was probably taken shortly before his death.  His hair was receding, short and mostly white.  His stubble also grew white and had not been trimmed for a few days. His skin, due to long years of exposure to the sun, rain, snow and wind, had lost its hue and become dark brown. Wrinkles were engraved on his forehead and around his shrunk and mournful eyes. The hard life had reduced a tall and handsome young man into a visage too painful to see.    

My younger brother helped me to our father’s memorial tablet in another room. On the table was another picture of him and some tributes like incense, dry fruits and paper that we burnt for him.  I lighted a few incense sticks and knelt on the floor.  I said I was sorry to come home late, and I asked for his forgiveness. For all these years, all my father did was work. He never stopped working till his last breath.  He gave all he had to his poor family.  He started his life’s journey early, walked on the frozen road of hardship for years, and his life was cut short because of too much exertion and exhaustion. He died too early. He did not deserve any of these.        

I wished that my stable financial and overall status change in America had come earlier, so that I could do something for my father and family. It took me seven years to obtain my master’s and PhD degrees before I found my current job. It was difficult for me and my family.  Both my wife and I depended on assistantships in the States to finish our doctoral degrees and raise our son, but it was harder for my Chinese family left behind.  How did he and the family survive all the hardships all these years? From time to time, I called and asked how the family was doing, my father, as reticent as he was always, would say, “The same as usual. Now we had enough to eat.”  He never shared details.  He did not want me to worry.

Now he was dead. For his short sixty-nine years he lived a hard life, supporting his wife and five children.  Never did a day go by without him thinking how he would put food on the table and,  when we were young, how to save to send us to school.

One scene remains vivid in my memory. When I was in elementary school, my father, elder brother, and I hauled a cart of potatoes to the county market sixteen miles away. We stood beside the cart the entire day until every sack was sold. By the time we started home, night had fallen, and the air was dark and cold. Near the outskirts of town, we stopped at a nearly deserted food stand. My father bought my brother and me a bowl of noodles to ease our hunger and warm our stomachs. For himself, he asked only for a bowl of hot noodle broth, free of charge, into which he soaked the cornbread we had brought from home. That was his dinner. After a whole day in the cold—calling to passersby, weighing potatoes, helping customers pack their goods—he longed for a bowl of noodles that cost barely three American cents, but he would not spend that money, choosing instead to save every coin for daily necessities and for his children’s tuition and supplies.

This was who my father was, a hard-working yet destitute Chinese peasant living at the bottom of society, always lacking food, money, and the basic necessities, dying so untimely without enjoying a day of hearty meal and relaxed mind, leaving nothing behind for people to remember him by: no money, no property, no words, except the good memories people had of him.  Is this what life is? What kind of world is this? Who should be held responsible for him and people like him? 

It had never occurred to my father to complain against any individual, institution or society.  Like millions of Chinese peasants living from the 1960s to the end of the 1970s, he was a victim of his time marked by the Great Leap Forward, the People’s Commune Movement, the Great Famine, and most devastating of all, the ten-year long Proletariat Cultural Revolution. It was estimated that over forty million Chinese starved to death just from the Great Famine from 1958-1961.

During my short stay at home, I ventured to the villages nearby. I saw peasants as old as in their 70s and 80s, stooped and frail, still toil day in and day out in the poor soil, to contribute to their sons’ building a new house or paying their daughters’ dowry. I read about millions of migrant workers, leaving their aging parents and small children behind, selling their labour to factories and workshops in big cities earning $600 a month. They work fourteen hours a day with only one or two days off in a month.

My 45-year-old sister recently worked in a factory in Guangdong. She told me she worked more than fourteen hours a day, with only two short meal breaks of about twenty-five minutes each. The rest of the time she stood in front of a machine, collecting washing machine parts that poured out nonstop. She could not step away, even briefly, without parts piling up and crashing to the floor. To prevent this, she avoided drinking water so she would not need to use the restroom as often.

I often wonder what our father would think, knowing from the grave that his grown children, though no longer hungry or ragged, still must toil so hard to make a living. They still depend on crops and apple orchards for survival. They still lack savings for family emergencies, vacations, or helping their children marry.

Home Visit in 2019

I visited China in May 2019, during which I delivered a lecture entitled “William Faulkner and His Works” at my alma mater. Before the talk, a formal ceremony was held, and I was awarded an honorary professorship. I had invited my mother to attend, but she declined. For a woman in possession of a lifelong interest in meeting people and seeing new places, her refusal seemed unusual.

Later I learned that her health had declined sharply over the past two years, making long trips difficult. This became painfully clear during my walks with her in the village. I held her weakened arm, little more than thin flesh over bone, as we moved slowly along the path. Every few minutes she had to stop and sit, murmuring that her legs were too weak to carry her farther.

 As I walked with her through the village, I noticed many changes. The streets had been paved with cement, streetlights now stood on every post, and running water had been installed in every household, yet the village also felt emptier. Wealthier families had moved to the county seat, and younger men and women had left for jobs in larger cities. What remained were mostly the elderly and children, giving the village a quiet and desolate air.

My younger brother had upgraded his home. In September, I learned from my younger brother that our mother was seriously ill. It started with a few swollen teeth, then a big ball grew on one side of her face, so big that it squeezed her eye.  My brother and sisters thought it might be some infection that would heal in a week or two, but when it became more than two weeks, they decided to take her to the county hospital, only to be told that they could not treat her, that she needed to be transferred to a hospital in Xi’an.  She was taken to the emergencies of two big hospitals, only to be told that they could not treat her.

They then took her to the third hospital affiliated with the Fourth Military Medical University, one of the best ones in Xi’an. I happened to have a friend working there, and I called him repeatedly, asking if he could help arrange for my mother to see a doctor. Through his connection, she was admitted to the emergency department. A team of specialists were assembled, and they diagnosed her case as advanced oral cancer, with very slim chances of recovery. If we insisted on treatment, two hospitals would need to be involved. Part of her face would have to be cut, and her chest opened to drain the fluid. Given her age, the likelihood of surviving such a surgery was minimal.

After careful discussion, my brother, sisters, and I decided to forego the attempt and brought her home, leaving her final days in God’s hands. It was indeed a hard decision for us.  We felt extremely guilty for our mother did not deserve to die this way, yet she accepted it with resignation and sigh. She said, “How did the Lord allow this weird illness to happen to me?”  For two weeks she lay on bed, becoming weaker day by day, withering away until she lost her last breath.   

Since she was diagnosed, I had been preparing to fly back to China for the funeral. Because of my absence from my father’s funeral, I was determined to attend my mother’s funeral, to make sure she had a decent burial. I told my siblings that I would be glad to pay for all the expenses. That was the least I could do to show a little appreciation for what she did for the family and me. I spent fourteen hours flying from Chicago to Beijing, then two hours from Beijing to Xi’an, then four hours of drive home.  By the time I arrived home, more than twenty-four hours had passed.      

The moment I knelt before my mother’s dead body in a coffin, my eyes were filled with tears.  I told her how sorry I was not to be with her for the last weeks now that she was forever gone. With a heavy heart and hasty breath, my words were repeatedly interrupted by my sobbing. My brother and sisters, kneeling beside me, tried to calm me down and asked me not to be carried away by my grief.

The second day was filled with preparations for the funeral. A few large tents, complete with tables and chairs, were rented and set up by a group of young men. The caterers arrived in their big truck, bringing utensils, meats, and vegetables. They busily set up the stove, chopped the meat, and cleaned the vegetables. In the nearby field, the grave diggers worked diligently, laying bricks to line the walls of the grave. My brother and I carried home-prepared food to the gravesite, along with light refreshments, cigarettes, and liquor, as tokens of our appreciation for everyone’s efforts.

The funeral ceremony was held the next day. Relatives, villagers and the people nearby packed the small square in front of the courtyard. My mother’s coffin was carried by a few strong men from the house outside and placed on a frame for people to pay their last respect. Our sisters and the women relatives knelt around the coffin, cried and chanted the hard life my mother had lived, while my elder brother, younger one, and I knelt in front of the coffin. The band started to play music of mournful nature.

I then stood up and gave a short eulogy outlining mother’s sacrifice and her impact on us. As I started to utter those words, they invoked images of the past years when my mother, always in poor health, did her best to make clothes and food for us. I especially mentioned how she insisted on us siblings going to school to get an education during a financially challenged times. Without her push, encouragement and resourcefulness, our lives now would be different.

When the ceremony ended, the coffin was placed on a motorized vehicle for transport to the graveyard. As it moved slowly toward the site, we siblings, along with relatives and villagers, followed behind, carrying the funeral decorations. When the coffin was about to be lowered into the grave, everyone gathered along the sides. I offered a prayer for my mother, thanking the Lord for bringing her into our lives and for all she had done for our family. I asked Him to remember her sacrifices and contributions and to welcome her into heaven. I recited a verse from Revelation 21:4: “And God will wipe away every tear from their eyes; there shall be no more death, nor sorrow, nor crying. There shall be no more pain, for the former things have passed away.” After my prayer, the villagers helped cover the grave with cement boards and dirt.

On the journey back home, and later on the flight to the United States, my thoughts were consumed by the many sacrifices my mother had made. She did not come from this region.  She was born into a prosperous doctor’s family in Gansu Province, but during the national famine, she was forced to leave Gansu and migrate to Shaanxi, where she married my father. Within four years, she had given birth to three sons, placing an immense burden on our already poor family, and later she bore two daughters. Years of poor health, inadequate nutrition, and endless labour to provide food and clothing for the family left her frail. I remembered how she often lay on her side, wracked with pain from stomach ulcers caused by malnutrition, yet the family could not afford medicine.

My mother was a very ordinary peasant woman. She had only three years of schooling, yet she understood the value of education and how it could shape the future of her children. One memory remains carved in my mind. Every time I returned home from four years of boarding school, she made sure I had a bowl of noodles to give me some nourishment. Our family was extremely poor and survived mostly on corn and sweet potatoes, yet she used the small amount of wheat flour she had saved to make me that simple meal. Watching me enjoy a hearty bowl after days of dry corn bread and hot water brought her more joy than when she ate the food herself. She would sit beside me, relaxed and smiling, asking about school as I devoured the noodles.

I recalled more… One winter during high school, I was short just one dollar of my tuition. My homeroom teacher, stern and unyielding, made me walk five miles home and warned me not to return without the full amount. My parents, especially my mother, went from house to house in the village, humbly pleading for a small loan for a week or two. Most turned them away, citing their own hardships, but a few, out of pity, offered a yuan or two. By late afternoon, the small contributions had added up. I returned to school at dusk.

Now that both of my parents are gone, I probably will not return as often as I once did, yet home will always hold a permanent place in my life, its significance untouched by time. It has become a wellspring that nourishes me, as it has for many years. Whenever I think of home, I remember my parents, siblings, and the villagers. Their hope, hard work, and resilience have inspired me throughout my studies, career, and life. I have always thought: if my parents could endure those grueling years, far harsher than anything I have faced, I could persevere as well.

Struggling with a difficult reading, drafting a paper, or completing a PhD dissertation feels like a minor challenge compared to the battles they fought for food, clothing, tuition, farming tools, seeds, and fertilizers. For my challenges, I could seek more time or consult a professor. For my parents, failing to buy seeds or fertilizers in time could mean missing a season, leaving the family without a harvest, a matter of life and death. It is almost unimaginable how they survived those years. Their stories of sacrifice and resilience must be remembered and passed down through generations.

I have benefited most from their hard work and sacrifice. I owe a profound debt of gratitude first to my parents, and then to my siblings. My father spent his life labouring in the fields, always placing his faith in the land; my mother devoted herself to cooking and sewing, always ensuring we were clean and presentable. My siblings, who left school early, worked alongside our parents, giving all they had to support the family. I, the one who stayed in school the longest, completing graduate studies, reaped the rewards of their toil and perseverance. Without their sacrifices, I might be living the same life as my siblings today, repeating the same exhausting work my parents endured. For my entire life, I can never fully repay what they gave to our family.

Beyond feelings of indebtedness, these homecoming visits also prompt me to reflect on deeper issues. The contrast between my life and that of my siblings in China could not be more striking. It is almost as if I live in a king’s palace, eating what I want, buying what I desire, and traveling to places that interest me, without concern for cost, while they worry daily about whether there will be enough rain for the crops, whether they can save enough for their children’s education, or whether they have enough to face unexpected emergencies. Yes, they do not go hungry, but their lives remain far from secure or comfortable. Witnessing their struggles, I often feel guilty that I cannot do more for them. I cannot help but wonder why some people are able to change their lives through hard work, while others, despite equal or greater effort, cannot. Is there such a thing as fate? What lies behind it, and can it be changed?

I cannot answer these and the frustrations that are hard to quell, I remain hopeful and calm.  My parents often told us when we were children that even though we could not control the weather or the harvest, we must give our best effort and never let drought, storm, or hail prevent us from planting the next season’s crops.

 I realise homecoming is no longer simply about returning to a physical place; it is about returning to the essence of who I am. My parents’ fields, the worn paths of our village, and the laughter and burdens shared with my siblings shaped the foundation upon which my entire life was built. Though I may not walk those village roads as often as before, they live within me, and every achievement of mine carries their unseen footprints. My parents’ sacrifices and my siblings’ endurance gave me the privilege of education and the chance to live a life far removed from the toil of farming. Their lives remind me that fate is both mysterious and humble. We cannot fully explain why one child remains tied to the land while another journeys across oceans into universities and cities; nor can we fully reconcile the injustices of unequal rewards for equally hard labor. Still in this tension between destiny and effort lies the lesson my parents embodied: We must keep planting seeds, even when the harvest is uncertain. Their resilience teaches me that while we may not command the outcomes of life, we can command the spirit with which we endure it.

Thus, homecoming becomes more than nostalgia.  It is a renewal of faith, gratitude, and responsibility. It compels me to remember not only what I received but also what I must pass on: the stories of hardship, the virtues of perseverance, and the wisdom of contentment. Just as my parents left behind a legacy of strength and dignity, I too must carry forward their spirit, telling and retelling their stories so that the future generations may know the price paid for their opportunities.

Even as life pulls me farther from the village, home will remain my wellspring, reminding me of the values that no distance can erase. In remembering, I find balance between guilt and gratitude, between abundance and humility, and between fate and choice. And in this balance, I carry with me the most enduring inheritance my parents left behind: the courage to live with resilience and the grace to be content in every circumstance.

[1] A heatable clay bed, a traditional Chinese sleeping platform made of earth or brick. It has hollow interior channels connected to a stove or external fire source, circulating warm air to heat the clay mass and provide energy-efficient warmth during cold winters

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Larry S. Su has been a professor of literature and writing for the past thirty years.  He has also been a passionate reader and ardent writer since college.  He writes both in Chinese and English, and his writings have appeared extensively in the Chinese and English publications, mostly in the form of articles and essays. 

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PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Notes from Japan

My Husband and AI

By Suzanne Kamata

From Public Domain

Like many people, I have complicated feelings about AI. On a recent trip to the United States, my daughter, who is deaf and has never learned English, was able to keep up with dinner table conversations with the help of an app which transcribed and translated spoken words, almost in real time. However, as one who teaches English as a foreign language, I am dismayed by the extent to which students outsource their learning.

As a writer, I was both flattered to find that my writing had been used to train Large Language Models, and angry that it had been done without my consent. Meanwhile, just the other day I enjoyed a movie featuring a computer-generated octopus, but I also worry that moviemakers will substitute human actors with AI ones. Apparently, this is already happening in China and other places.

I am also alarmed by how often my husband consults ChatGPT in his decision-making. For example, we recently decided to purchase new curtains for our living/dining room. Previously, the three windows in question had been hung with floral curtains in coordinating but different patterns. How nice it would be to finally have matching curtains on all three windows! We went curtain-shopping and fell for a beautiful set of drapes with deep crimson roses that would go well with our deep red cabinets. We didn’t buy them right away, however. 

In the interim, my husband asked ChatGPT what colour curtains would go best with our décor. “Greige,” came the reply. A neutral colour, such as a cross between gray and beige, would go with everything. We would easily tire of a busy print, and loud colors would overwhelm.

We went curtain-shopping again. This time, we considered more subdued designs. I still thought that a floral print would be nice, but I was willing to go in for a change. We wound up selecting curtains in an elegant gray ombre. They are fine, but not quite as cheerful as the ones we had before.

Next, my husband and I began painting the cement wall that separated our lot from the neighbour’s. Surprisingly, he agreed to a mint green. It reminded me of the lovely pastel houses on Rainbow Row in Charleston, South Carolina, or San Francisco, California. A few houses down, some other neighbours had painted their house yellow. I supported this trend.

When we had finished the wall, my husband said that he was going to paint the gate. “What colour do you think would be best?” he asked.

“How about blue?” Sky blue would be uplifting. A darker blue would be a nod to the indigo for which our town was named.

My husband went to ChatGPT for confirmation. “He says that we should paint it greige.”

I rolled my eyes. First of all, it was not a “he,” not a sentient being. Secondly, it was becoming clear that if we always relied on AI’s advice, the whole world would soon be bland and inoffensive – in other words, greige.

This time, I refused to go along with the verdict. My husband asked again, apparently with different wording. He read the reply out loud to me: “Your wife is not wrong…”

Another thing about AI is that it aims to please.

Ultimately, my husband painted the gate blue.

From Public Domain

Suzanne Kamata was born and raised in Grand Haven, Michigan. She now lives in Japan with her husband and two children. Her short stories, essays, articles and book reviews have appeared in over 100 publications. Her work has been nominated for the Pushcart Prize five times, and received a Special Mention in 2006. She is also a two-time winner of the All Nippon Airways/Wingspan Fiction Contest, winner of the Paris Book Festival, and winner of a SCBWI Magazine Merit Award.

PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Poetry

Autumn Treasures by Keith Lyons

FRom Public Domain
AUTUMN TREASURES
(For A.C.)

Behind the cabbage tree casting afternoon shadows,
flanked by tufts of tussock
and spindly coprosma saplings,

late autumn held a quiet secret
on the last Sunday of April.

I almost passed them,
but in the shade
small lanterns still burned.

In awe, I knelt
to examine this improbable find.

So fragile, so easily crushed or crumbled,
I picked each one gently,
cradling the glowing late harvest in my hand.

Each hollowed dome
resembled an ornate temple
of intricate chambers,

red light passing through
their clustered sacred geometry.

Yet on the tongue:
succulent, fragrant, dissolving away,
leaving tiny seeds,
the very essence, between the teeth.

Some alchemy of light and warmth,
deepened by waiting,
had ripened them

far sweeter than childhood memories.

It is said raspberries are best
freshly picked from prickly canes
sunlit, sheltered, and watered.

Though this neglected rogue vine
crept along hard ground
facing the cold south.


Finding you was like that.

Not signposted,
just suddenly there.

Your natural ease,
your grounded presence.

No performance or pretence,
only shared attention,
where the moment feels complete enough
that neither past nor future intrudes.

Meeting you carried that same feeling:

a quiet astonishment,
and an awareness
of how fleeting
such sweetness can be.

Lanterns,
small lanterns lit;
Lanterns that glowed against the coming winter.

Keith Lyons (keithlyons.net) is an award-winning writer and creative writing mentor originally from New Zealand who has spent a quarter of his existence living and working in Asia including southwest China, Myanmar and Bali. His Venn diagram of happiness features the aroma of freshly-roasted coffee, the negative ions of the natural world including moving water, and connecting with others in meaningful ways. A Contributing Editor on Borderless Journal’s Editorial Board, his work has appeared in Borderless since its early days, and his writing featured in the anthology Monalisa No Longer Smiles.

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PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access Wild Winds: The Borderless Anthology of Poems

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Categories
Slices from Life

Technology War in the House

By Chetan Datta Poduri

The other day I had a tough time explaining mobile telephony and its advancements to my dad who’s around 85 years old. Both of us are highly educated. Neither of us knew modern technology well. Nevertheless, me being a self-taught-geek-or-engineer-or-technologist-of-sorts keep explaining the advancements in technology at regular intervals to my father.

My father, 85, is still actively practicing in a nearby trust hospital. He retired from government service almost two decades ago. Ever since he has been actively consulting patients in local private hospitals. He always says that keeping oneself active (physically or professionally) is more than sufficient to keep ourselves healthy.

“No exercises needed”, he would say whenever someone asked him, and would add, “there isn’t any beach or a lake resort in the arid Hyderabad to sit back and relax. So, the patients give me some avocation to pass my time”.

I must also confess that my father has been using hearing aids in both the ears since he was 50 years old, and amnesia slowly started getting the better of him four years ago…

*

Six years ago, another problem cropped up…

In December 2019, as you all know this planet was plagued by the COVID-19 pandemic. Amidst this hullabaloo, China made a small significant technological advancement – China silently unrolled 5G mobile telephony[1] in Wuhan.

As March 2020 neared, Indian government announced harsh restrictions, prominent amongst them are the lockdowns. To complicate the matters, my dad’s patients desperately needed to consult him for whatever…

… So, literally imprisoned at home my father embarked on video consultations to patients through WhatsApp. That represented the flashpoint between my dad and me.

Dad started complaining that his video conferences were not working properly.

The self-taught engineer in me explained that for proper video streaming and conferencing the mobile handset needs to have certain amount of memory in its RAM and storage all of which must be compatible with the ‘xG’ mobile telephony the government or service provider is offering (where ‘x’ represents a whole number like 2, 3, 4 or 5 and in near future can be 6 also). Like a true technocrat, I explained all the technology I knew with appropriate diagrams and flow-charts.

“What’s this RAM and storage?” asked my dad

“Well, I think RAM means Random Access Memory…”, I quipped peering through the edge of my glasses.

“What’s with the storage?”

“Well, everything your mobile handset receives, be it SMS or any other notifications or photographs you click with your mobile camera, it needs to keep somewhere. It needs a filing cabinet. That is called storage. If your handset has something called an SD card, it is external storage while every handset is sold initially with some storage called ‘internal storage’…”

“So … how much area does this storage take”

I casually replied, “Usually it is measured in GBs (giga bytes) … Your handset, I guess is some 16 GB or so… Mine’s about 32 GB…”

It’s been six years since we have had this discussion. The then government complicated the situation in our house by announcing that in another six months it will roll out 5G services in India to compete with Chinese …

“Ok! That’s alright but why are my phone calls not up to the mark. What does it have to do with storage? I understand if it is missing SMS, photos, storing and retrieving videos, etc… But why is the voice of the caller invariably broken or videos not clear?”

“Well, you might be using a 3G handset. Presently, the service providers are offering 4G+ services. Maybe you need to change your handset”

“Do I look like a fool? On one hand you are saying my phone is 16 G and on the other hand you are saying that government is offering only 4G services. Are you trying to ridicule me?”

Dumbstruck I tried to convince my dad. “Daddy, telephony G is different from storage GB … G of telephony means Generation and GB is giga bytes… 4G is different from 16 GB”.

“I know… I know… If government is offering only 4G and I have a 16 G handset, and there are two SIM cards in my handset 4G multiplied 4G is 16 G… then why is my handset not working properly?”, dad said angrily.

As an adolescent, I always felt that my father was very poor in mathematics and that’s perhaps why he asked me to opt for Biology stream in college. Had I known then that he knew how to square 4, I would’ve opted for mathematics stream giving many-a-CEOs a good run for their money…

“No!” I yelled, “the G in xG is different from GB”

“Now… Now… Now… My hearing aids are working properly… no need to shout… unnecessarily you’ll be disturbing the neighbours… Tell me, if my handset is 16 G why is it not working in 4G technology?”

I tried to pacify myself, “guess he has a hearing problem with letter ‘B’…”

“This G is not the same as that GB… Both are different…,” I said at the top of my voice

“Ok… But how to solve the problem?”

“Change your handset to something that can support 4G services…”

“But it is lockdown now… So… what’s the alternative?”

“The only alternative is to wait till they relax the lockdown and buy a new one until then endure the faulty video and audio calls… No other way out…”

*

Twenty years ago, in 2002, I bought my first mobile handset – a Nokia 3100 for about Rs3000. I was in Shimla, Himachal Pradesh then. There was a delayed roll-out of mobile telephony in North-western India and Kashmir regions of India for obvious reasons of them being very next to enemy nations, China and Pakistan. It was 2G technology then. Subsequently, a number of cheap Chinese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese and Korean mobile handsets invaded India.

Back in 1991 CE, when India liberalised its economy, India was invaded by a number of international products in all spheres of life. Many Chinese and other Asian national companies also released their wares. This gave the average Indian at least four options.

The first option of buying highly priced superior quality original products from the Western Countries. The second option is that of the cheap lookalikes mostly from oriental countries like China, Taiwan, Vietnam and Korea. These were commonly referred to as duplicates. A third reasonable and genuine option was also offered by the liberalised Indian market – the Japanese products. These Japanese products, particularly the watches and calculators, were diametrically different from either the Western or the Oriental country products. They were priced somewhere in between and offered technology products with graceful designs. No matter what happens, these Japanese goods exceed your expectations. The fourth option was the local Indian products. These were rather crude in their design, usually low in quality and may or may not work testing your luck.

Chinese products, the duplicates, looked more American than the American products themselves but with Mandarin notations. From a distance it is difficult to say which is which. The most popular example in this direction was the copy of popular Batteries. Street vendors used to dispense American lookalike batteries for Rs5 while the original western would cost Rs95. Among the Indian products that stood the test of time were mostly food and dairy items and some watches/clocks.

This period of 90s in India paralleled the European Union’s efforts to revive the defunct industries that were bombed out in World War II. Also, around this time domestic airlines pampered the passengers by giving cheap watches as gifts and souvenirs. Net result: both my father and me developed a passion for collecting watches. My father’s patients would gift him cheap Chinese or so-called duplicates of the popular European watches. While he still collects these cheap watches, I, in due course, fizzled out. Of course, as of today, the pace at which the companies release newer designs outran our passion.

Mobile handsets, particularly the cheap ones that flooded the Indian market, fuelled our passion to collect handsets. So, now both of us have an additional avocation of changing mobile handsets as frequently as possible. Since in 2002 I was in Shimla and my dad was in Hyderabad, it became an unwritten rule between both of us that we appear with a different mobile handset every time we met. This passion continued for about a decade till 2012. By this time, I covered two cities – Shimla and Guwahati in Northeastern state of Assam. My father having retired from active government service lived (and continues to live in, touch wood) in Hyderabad which is in the south Indian state of Telangana.

A neighbourhood mobile vendor used to supply my father with cheap mobile handsets. For some unknown reason he used to call my father ‘Uncle’ and me as ‘Sir’. So, my mother and me used to pull my dad’s legs by calling the mobile vendor as his nephew.

As per our passion, we regularly changed our mobile phones. This continued till sometime… literally till 2018… when the 4G services were launched. Around this time the mobile ‘nephew’ of my father stopped supplying newer versions of handsets to my father.

But when he supplied mobile handsets to my father, he also used to do an additional service to my father: every time my father changed his handset, the mobile ‘nephew’ would somehow do a data transfer from the older handset to the new one. This I call an additional service because my father, as I mentioned earlier, uses hearing aids. So, the mobile handset must also be connected to the hearing aid through Bluetooth or other reliable technology. This is followed by a calibration of the hearing aid with the audiologist. All this took at least 2 – 3 days and multiple visits to both the mobile vendor and the audiologist. The mobile ‘nephew’ was very enthusiastic and never complained about any inconvenience. Other mobile shop owners would bluntly ask my father to get the calibration done elsewhere or with the service centre present at the other end of the city.

In one of the exchanges of mobiles, the data could not be properly transferred.

*

In June 2020, I guess, the government relaxed the lockdowns for the first time. Promptly, my father headed to a neighbourhood mobile phone shop and bought a 4G handset as per my recommendation. To my surprise, my father did not go to his mobile ‘nephew’. He went to a high-end mobile shop. My father this time bought an advanced model of a popular company’s handset.

After a day or two, and more video conferences later, my father expressed happiness and thanked me saying that for the first time in his life I gave a correct advice.

But now he needed something from the earlier unfinished data transfer. He wanted the data in the older mobile handset into the new handset. I took both the handsets to the new vendor and requested him to do the transfer. He gave a polished glib talk giving me the impression that the earlier handset is a cheap model from which it is better not to transfer the data. Crestfallen, I dragged myself to my-father’s-mobile-nephew and asked him to do the needful. The nephew told me that he failed to get permission for 4G and 5G so he’s at a loss as to help me.

“…that”, the nephew told me then, “is also the reason why your father no longer procures his mobiles from me”.

*

Two years of COVID restrictions rolled on somehow. For more than a year and a half every Indian was literally imprisoned in their respective homes due to the on-going pandemic.

The technology argument resurfaced between me and my father once again.

Dad said, “…again the problem of poor-quality video and audio…”

“Ah! Our service provider has now upgraded to 5G+ …Your handset is 4G… Change your handset…”

“Hmm… you mean there’s no problem with the handset?”

“Yeah! There’s no problem with the handset. It is just outdated. It is no longer compatible with the existing technology“, I quipped.

“What do you mean?“

I played the cards differently this time.

“We are three people in this house now. How comfortable will it be if suddenly there are 15 people in this house now?”

“If you talk like that, a greater number of people can be made to adjust in the house…”

“But what if everyday 15 people keep coming into the house without vacating?”

“Ah! Then that will be a problem…”

“Ditto for your handset… It is receiving more information from the network than it can handle…”

“The Apps are also freezing occasionally…”

“Same logic… they are receiving more information and upgrading themselves to the new technology… time to change your handset…”

“How much will a basic handset that works will cost me?”

“The one that is compatible will cost you around Rs15,000. The one that is also compatible with your hearing aids will be at the least Rs 20,000.”

Well, since my childhood, I always kept myself updated on the prices of the latest in market whether I need those items or not. Wishful thinking, I guess.

“If this is the case then, every year or two even if there is no malfunction, I am forced to change my handset. This is very bad…”

“That’s the flip side of the technological advancement… Whether you like it or not… Whether there’s a malfunction or not, we are forced to change our products leading to huge amounts of pollution…”

“Very bad state of affairs. Think about the laptops then. Unnecessarily we are shelling out truckloads of money just to keep us abreast of the technology…”

“Very bad state of affairs… the technology developers think everybody is a billionaire and everybody’s a computer geek…”

*

Thanks to our passions, every year, me and my dad each spend at least Rs8000 just for the batteries so that our watches are in working condition. The other day, I took an Indian watch of mine for servicing which I bought in 2001 with the first salary I received after my PhD. I bought it for Rs400 then.

The servicing personnel cooed, “Is this watch still working?”

Nostalgically, I asked, “What’s the price of this model now?”

“This model is no longer produced Sir…”

If this episode makes me misty-eyed, my Japanese watch always gives me goosepimples.

In 2010, I found a display board in a watch shop in the Fancy Bazaar of Guwahati that read, “Japanese – EcoFriendly watches”. I walked into the shop and bought the watch for about two thousand bucks. The manual said, “10-year Battery Life”. Believe it or not, it lasted 15 years and this is the only watch which did not give me an opportunity to change its battery.

Good and Honest things in life must be appreciated at the first opportunity.

[1] Telephony is the technology involving telephones for communication (audio or video), and data exchange between distant parties