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Slices from Life

Sundays are Only for Some…

By Snigdha Agrawal

He is at the door at 10 am on a Sunday.  Sleepy eyed. But all smiles.  A small frame for a twelve-year-old.  Neatly dressed in jeans and a t-shirt, sneakers on his feet, a size too big.  I presume he must have risen early to accompany his parents to their workplace.  A well brought-up lad, as is obvious from his body language, and impeccable manners.  So, unlike other kids I cross in the lift daily, studying in private schools where the annual fees runs into six digits.  

“Good morning, Ma’am,” he says, leaning against the door, while I hand out the laundered clothes for ironing.  I start counting the clothes.  He beats me to it.  One…two…three, right up to twenty-seven.  Bent on his knees he folds the clothes methodically and bundles them in the faded bedsheet, kept specifically for this purpose.  Heaving the bundle on his shoulder, he leaves, assuring the clothes will be ironed and returned by the evening.  Once again repeating the number twenty-seven and the cost of ironing per piece at Rs.7/-, making it obvious, that he is aware of the prevailing rates.  Homework done well. I see him off at the service lift, with many such bundles picked up from other apartments, piled into a trolley, crudely fashioned after luggage trolleys bellboys use in hotels for moving visitor luggage from floor to floor.

It sets me thinking.  Is he ironing the clothes himself?  It can’t be.  How could he ever lift that heavy charcoal iron box[1]?  And if so, does that make it grossly wrong and unacceptable — surmounting to child labour…?

I went to the basement of our apartment complex to search for the designated space allocated to the ‘ironing persons’.  Rent-free with power points, rarely used.  Comfortable with the traditional method. I find him sitting on a plastic stool, jotting down the number of clothes against the apartment number and the amount payable. That puts my fears to rest. 

At the workstation, Manorama, his mother, is busy preparing for the day’s ironing.  A makeshift ironing board of plywood sheets, salvaged from throwaway pieces, assembled to resemble a cabinet, with a tabletop and storage below.  Where was Bhaskar, I asked.  The little guy is quick to respond.  “Sundays… my mother and I take over from my father.  All week, he is busy from 8 am to 8 pm, returning home tired, and ready to hit the bed.” 

I was touched, to say the least.  Here was a caring twelve-year-old boy who was helping out his parents on a Sunday.  Collecting and delivering clothes from apartments, doing the book-keeping without any complaints.  Leaning against the wall, are his school books.  Presumably to catch up on weekend assignments.  To my question “Do you like reading?” his face lights up like a thousand-watt bulb.  His smile with a few missing teeth, stretches from ear to ear.  Okay…that solved a problem I needed to deal with. I decided to surprise him with books that were lying in the house, keepsakes from my childhood. Time to part with them. 

Around 7 pm, he arrives with my bundle, unknots the bedsheet, opening the four folds and proceeds to count the clothes, for his satisfaction and mine.  I can hear his sigh of relief.  Numbers match.  Contents are the same as was handed over.  He is surprised as I hand over the books.  “These are for you to read…I’m sure you will understand and enjoy the stories.  If you don’t, come over whenever you have spare time. I’ll explain.” The smile on his face is priceless.

“So, Mahesh what did your mother cook for breakfast and lunch today?” I ask, worried about his nutritional needs.  

I see the look of confusion on his face, wondering why this old lady was asking so many questions.  Pauses.  He seems to be churning something over in his mind and then says, “Sundays I make breakfast and allow my parents to sleep longer. Today I made lemon poha[2] and filter coffee.  Amma made curd rice for lunch.”   I was moved enough to want to give him a big hug.  Not sure, how he would respond to getting physical, instead gave him a bag of candies.  He was hesitant to accept it, till I pushed it into his little hands.  His pupils dilated and the spark in his eyes said the unsaid.  Admittedly, I was curious. I needed to engage him in conversation to know more about his plans for the future.

To my question, “Do you plan to take over your father’s trade once you are of age?” Pat is his emphatic reply:  “No…Ma’am! I am working hard to secure the qualifying marks for admission into an engineering college to study Computer Science and work in an office.  My parents are saving for my education.  Part of the earnings from ‘ironing clothes’ are kept aside for this purpose.  That is why I help out on Sundays and school vacations.” 

“What happens to your father’s business then?”

“Oh! It has been agreed that it will be discontinued, once I can provide for them.  Another ten years. My grandfather passed away early because of the occupational hazards associated with this profession.  I don’t want my parents to meet the same fate. They deserve a better life.”  That tears me up.  So much wisdom in that little head.  

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[1] In India, there are people who make a living of ironing clothes for the more affluent. They normally use heavy charcoal irons and not electric irons… they could set up a stall under a porch or under a tree…

[2] flattened rice with spices/ flavouring

Snigdha Agrawal (nee Banerjee) is a published author of four books and a regular contributor to anthologies published in India and overseas.  A septuagenarian, she writes in all genres of poetry, prose, short stories and travelogues.

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Slices from Life

Hooked for Life and Beyond…

By Ravi Shankar

I was hooked! It was my first exposure to a computer though I had read about these in the newspapers and seen them on television. I think it was a Spectrum personal computer popular in the 1980s. My friend, Sanjay and I did a few simple tasks and played a few games on the computer. The games of the 80’s were slow and clunky by today’s standards. In those days however they were interesting and enticing. BASIC was the most popular computer language then. We also had COBOL and a few others. My good friend, Sanjay Mhatre was a bibliophile and a free thinker, and I often used to visit his place and borrow from his vast book collection. However, even in the 1980s there was uneasiness and opposition to computers and the fear that it would replace people and lead to mass unemployment was often mentioned.

The rise of information technology (IT) and the important role to be played by Indian companies was still in the future. I expect artificial intelligence (AI) will also open new jobs in the future. At my medical college in Thrissur, Kerala, India computers were still rare. Communist Kerala had a love-hate relationship with computers and technology. Maharashtra (a western Indian state) was an early adopter of computers, and my tenth- and twelfth-mark sheets were computerised while my MBBS ones were handwritten. During my postgraduation at Chandigarh, computers gained prominence in our conversations. Our head of the department was gracious enough to offer the services of his secretary for typing our research manuscripts when she was free. The only other option was to pay for the service from outside providers. In those days WordStar and WordPerfect dominated word processing. 

Creating slides for presentations was a challenge. LCD projectors were not available, and we had to create physical slides with cardboard mounting. The slides were created on early versions of PowerPoint and photographed using a camera to create the physical ones. My co-guide, Dr Anil Grover (then a cardiologist) at Postgraduate Institute (PGI), Chandigarh mentioned how computers will become increasingly common and encouraged me to learn the Microsoft package of Word, PowerPoint, and Excel. PGI also started offering email facility on a limited basis. You had to write down the details of your email and take it to the IT section who will send your message. We had modems then, which took a while to connect and made a series of sounds with flashing lights while connecting to the internet.

In Pokhara, Nepal at the beginning of the twenty-first century, internet was still a luxury. Manipal College of Medical Sciences used to charge 10 Nepalese rupees to send a message. Faculty could type their message in Outlook and twice a day, the IT person would send and receive messages. In those days, a floppy disk was the most common external storage device, and I soon had a large and colourful collection of floppies. Floppies were not always reliable and sometimes the data on them could not be read. CD-ROMs were another storage device, but CD writers never became commonplace. At Mahendra Pul in the heart of Pokhara, a new cybercafé came up in the early 2000s offering internet browsing at 150 Nepalese rupees per hour. Compared to what we were previously paying, this was a steal!

The college also had an LCD projector though it was not commonly used by faculty members for teaching-learning. This was a large and clunky device. Earlier versions often had compatibility issues. You create your slides and hope for the best. These may or may not open on the laptop and may or may not be projected. One had to have a backup of the lecture on overhead projector (OHP) transparencies, just in case. We did not yet have easy access to computers or laptops. This came only later when the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) set up a drug information and pharmacovigilance centre at the teaching hospital. We got two excellent Dell computers, and the hospital provided us with internet.

The early computers were slow with a big, bulky, and heavy cathode ray screen. They had a blinking cursor and words appeared slowly after typing. The Hollywood movie, You’ve Got Mail (1998), follows the romance between Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks developed through email. The movie is a good introduction to the early days of the internet.  

We had purchased a home desktop computer in 2001 or 2002. This purchase was a financial disaster. The computer required frequent repairs and drained our finances. Google launched its beta version of email, Gmail in 2004, and I was one of the early adapters. I became a fan of Gmail right from the start. It offered significant advantages over the then dominant Hotmail, Yahoo mail and Rediff mail. The storage was larger and there was no need to delete your old emails. Kist Medical College in Lalitpur, Nepal had purchased Dell desktop computers, and these were among the best ones I had used. Fast and responsive with good memory and speed. These had LCD monitors and looked sleek and modern.  

Computer technology has made significant advances. I read that if cars had made similar advances to computers we could drive to the moon and back on a litre of gasoline. Chips started getting smaller and more powerful and are today fought over by the global technology superpowers. A variety of online applications started making their appearance with the spread of the internet. Some of these eventually became the internet giants of today. In India, internet became widely available, and the costs dropped significantly. Mobile technology also made dramatic advances. In India most people access the internet and carry out online tasks using their mobile phones. For around 12000 Indian rupees today you can get a decent mid-range phone. Today mobiles in the palm of your hands have greater processing power than the giants of the 1950s and 1960s. I remember reading a comic strip where a visitor from the future time travels to the present. He laughs on seeing the supercomputer, the most powerful one on earth. When asked why he shows a small ball and introduces it as a computer from his time with much greater processing power than the humungous supercomputer.

One of the major advances has been cloud computing and cloud services. We have Chromebooks that work on web-based applications and needs the internet to do things. Both Google and Microsoft offer a range of services including storage, meetings, messaging, and applications for text, presentations, and calculations. AI is now an integral part of applications. PowerPoint offers the designer option for slides and creates stunning backgrounds. I recently attended a workshop on Copilot, the AI support software from Microsoft that is fully integrated into all their applications. I like the transcribing option for interviews and focus groups offered by Teams and later by Zoom and this makes my life as a researcher easier.

Star Trek, Futuristic computing

When I was growing up, I had no clue about what would soon become commonplace. The world wide web, the ability to browse libraries and art collections, video conferencing, online work processes, applying for government and other services online, online fund transfer and remittance are now at our fingertips. The COVID pandemic shifted a lot of learning and even assessment online. Presently we mainly interact with computers using a keyboard. I am a fan of the sci-fi series, Star Trek, where people interact with computers mainly using their voice. Voice commands are already available and  steadily improving.

I was slow getting into social media. Their judicious use is to be recommended. Facebook keeps me updated on what my friends, acquaintances and former students are doing. LinkedIn is the professional face I present to the world, Twitter (now X) is a concise way to stay connected and YouTube is a major source of entertainment. Computers have changed our life for ever. At a basic level these are based on the flow of electrons through circuits and on the pioneering work in atomic physics done at the start of the twentieth century.

The last three decades have seen developments and changes at unimaginable speed. Who knows what the next three will bring? Will progress continue at an ever-accelerating pace or will we eventually hit a roadblock? We may have to wait for Father Time to provide the answers!

Dr. P Ravi Shankar is a faculty member at the IMU Centre for Education (ICE), International Medical University, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. He enjoys traveling and is a creative writer and photographer.

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Slices from Life

Heatwave & Tagore

Once more, Ratnottama Sengupta explores the contemporariness of Tagore ….

The continuing heatwave in Kolkata that has defied the geographical reality of Kaal Baisakhi — the norwester that brings relief to sun-scorched beings — prompted me to continuously hum this Tagore song in Brindavani Sarang Raag, written in 1922.

Darun Agni Baaney Re... 
(Shafts of Fire)


Shafts of fire pour thirst on us --
Sleepless nights, long scorching days,
No respite in sight!
On withered branches,
A listless dove wails
Droopy doleful notes...
No fear, no scare,
My gaze is fixed on the sky,
For you will come in the
Form of a storm,
And shower rain on scorched souls.

And as I kept singing the song first penned in Santiniketan, I marvelled at the creativity of the giant whose words are true to this very day, more than 100 years later!

Kaal Baisakhi, the nor’wester known in Assam as bordoisila, is a localised rainfall and thunderstorm event which occurs in the Indian states of West Bengal, Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha, Tripura, and Assam as well as in Bangladesh during the summer month of Baisakh (April 15-May 14). This first month of the Bengali calendar also saw the birth of Rabindranath Tagore. These storms generally occur in the afternoon or just before sunset, when thick dark black clouds appear over the sky and then bring gale-speed wind with torrential rain, often with hail, but spanning only a short period of time.

Kalbaisakhi

Tagore’s love for Nature had compelled him to set up in Santiniketan open air classrooms, where students would learn sitting on the ground in the bower, under trees where birds would chirp and gentle breeze would caress their tired brows.

And, his involvement also expressed itself in the 293 songs he wrote in the segment titled Prakriti (nature) Parjaay. There are songs about nature in general. But he himself further classified the songs under subsections — Upa parjaay — that focus on the six seasons: grishma (summer), barsha (Monsoon), sharat( early autumn), hemanta (late autumn or early winter), sheet (winter), basanta (spring). 

Tagore clearly was taken up by the wild beauty of monsoon with its dark clouds and thunderous showers. For, he wrote 150 songs on the drops of nectar from the heavens, while summer elicited a tenth of this number! If this is half the number celebrating sharat, the festive season of Durga Puja, it is thrice the number dedicated to hemanta, the confluence of autumn and winter.

I take heart in the fact that Grishma subsection includes Chokkhe aamar trishna, Ogo trishna aamar bakkho jurey… [1]

Thirst fills my eyes, Dear, 
Thirsty is my heart too...
I'm a rain-starved day of Baisakh
Burnt by the sun, heat stroked.
There's a storm brewing
In the ovenated air..
It sweeps my mind into the distance.
It rips me of my veil.
The blossom that lit up the garden
Has withered and fallen.
Who has reined in the stream
Imprisoned in heartless stone
At the peak of suffering?

And then, when it rained? The torrents poured balm on the angry burns. The fleet-footed lightning seared the heart of the cloud-covered darkness and extracted the nectar-like flow…

It assured us that no hardship lasts forever. It reiterated faith in the eternal words, “This too shall pass!” And, for me? It confirmed Tagore’s words that “You will come in the form of a storm and shower rain on scorched souls…”

Tagore lives on, 163 years after he came. In his words. In his imagery. In his empathy with every human situation…

[1] Thirst fills my eyes, Dear, /Thirsty is my heart too…

Ratnottama Sengupta, formerly Arts Editor of The Times of India, teaches mass communication and film appreciation, curates film festivals and art exhibitions, and translates and write books. She has been a member of CBFC, served on the National Film Awards jury and has herself won a National Award. 

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No Film? No Problem

By Ravi Shankar

The studio room was ill ventilated. The bright lights were making things hotter! We were at a photo studio in Bhandup, Mumbai, trying to take a family photograph. The photographer was trying his best to arrange us in a pleasing and photogenic composition. The process was however, taking longer than expected and my youngest brother was getting scared. He was beginning to cry and soon was bawling his head off. My mother has a knack of soothing and calming crying children, but this time even her efforts were not successful.

I was reminiscing on this episode recently and was thinking on how easy it has now become to capture photographs and video. For a long time, you had to use film to capture photographs. Photography was an expensive proposition then. Initially, you only had black and white films. Later colour films became widely available. The cost of films, of processing and printing photographs all added up.

Films were also only invented in only 1889, but they were highly flammable. ‘Safety films’ were introduces only in the last century in 1908. Before 1889, photographers had to lug around heavy glass photographic plates. The process of capturing images on film also took a long time. When taking portraits people had to stay still for minutes at a time. The older generation of cameras were bulky and heavy and difficult to carry around. Photography was a significant advance in human history. Before 1802, we had to depend on painters and portraitures to depict everyday scenes and special occasions.

The Eastman Kodak company invented flexible film to capture photographs and for several decades the company was a world leader in photography. Unfortunately, they were not able to fully adapt to the change to a digital format and after filing for bankruptcy the company is now back with commercial printing, film stills and movie production. The Japanese were the world leaders in cameras for several decades. Yashica, Minolta, Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Olympus are legendary names. For a long time during my student days and early medical career photography was an expensive hobby to indulge in. My first purchase was an Olympus. A small and compact camera that captured great images. The camera came with a remote and a timer. Olympus made great cameras and usually the lens was integrated into the body and could not be removed and changed.

My good friend, Sanjay Mhatre in Mumbai, is an architect with wide-ranging interests. He was the one who informed me about large format cameras and the Hasselblad series. Large format is especially important in architecture. Another major German brand was Leica. These were very expensive. Dr Unnikrishnan PS was my batch mate and hostel mate during the MBBS course. He had a keen interest in painting and has now switched to photography. Recently he has opened a museum dedicated to photography, Photomuse (https://photomuse.in/) in Thrissur district in Kerala. This is India’s first museum dedicated to photography.

My first single lens reflex (SLR) camera was a Pentax. I had purchased this from New Road in Kathmandu in 2000. A SLR is a camera that has a mirror in front of the film and when the shutter is clicked the mirror moves up and the film is exposed. The mirror otherwise helps photographers see what they are about to click through the view finder. The view finder was very important as you did not have screens that showed you what you were about to click. These came much later. With the advent of screens showing the scene in front of you, view finders began becoming less common.  

Himalayas — shot using the Pentax, Photo courtesy: Ravi Shankar

Kathmandu is a very photogenic city with ancient monuments and temples, and I tested out my new buy under a variety of conditions. I had to wait to get the film developed before I could see how my photos turned out. One had to be creative and resourceful as immediate feedback was lacking. I also invested in a polarizing filter, and this was very useful in highlighting the contrast between the snow-clad mountains and the deep blue sky.   

The camera was heavy and weighed around 1.2 kg but came with its own bag making it easier to carry. The camera accompanied me on most of my treks in Nepal. I was able to capture great images of the spectacular country. While hiking the hills, you had to stop, take the camera out of the bag, focus it, adjust the polarizer, compose the scene, and then click. Someone said that photography provided the sahibs with an excuse to rest and catch their breath during steep hikes. Karna Shakya is a famous Nepalese traveller and photographer who later he founded the Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel, Kathmandu. He has written about photography during his treks (in his books and articles) and the difficulty he faced while looking for colour films and developing the same in the 1970s in Kathmandu.

The cameras on mobile phones started becoming better from 2010 onwards. I had a Samsung mobile phone with me in Aruba that took good pictures. Aruba is a picturesque place with nice beaches and turquoise blue waters.

Aruba Coastline — shot using a Samsung Mobile. Photo courtesy: Ravi Shankar

I eventually graduated to an Oppo smart phone with a better camera. This smart phone accompanied me on my travels in Peru. In late 2019, Realme introduced a new smart phone with a 64 Megapixel sensor.  

Cusco Peru – Shot using an Oppo. Photo courtesy: Ravi Shankar

Mobile phone manufacturers are constantly upgrading their cameras. The mobile camera war is hotting up. The image sensors started getting larger and cheaper. Samsung and Sony started investing in sensor research and development. Some mobile manufacturers collaborated with camera makers like Hasselblad and Leica to bring these cameras to mobiles. Around late 2023, I was looking to upgrade my smart phone and wanted a more powerful camera. There was a wide choice available. 200 MP sensors were available on some phones while others had 120 and 100 MP cameras. I did some research and found that most phones only shoot images of around 32 MP at the maximum. Usual photos are taken at a much lower resolution.

I eventually purchased an Honor phone with a 100 MP camera. I have used this widely during my travels and gives excellent results especially in good lighting conditions. Mobile phones are lighter and less obtrusive compared to a SLR. Most SLRs have also now shifted to digital sensors rather than film. With a mobile phone it may be easier to capture people in their natural situations. The trend today is to have one device that can do it all. Play videos, check emails, make online bookings, call, chat, capture images and video.

Capturing video has also become easier and many phones have image stabilisation and allow you to shoot in HD and 4K formats. There are a variety of software that integrate images from different sources and can edit and polish a video. Taking a photograph is no longer regarded as something special. Taking a video and posting it on social media is also very common. Many people earn their livelihoods through creating and posting videos on platforms like YouTube and TikTok. We have come a long way from dressing up in our best formals and going to a studio to get our photographs taken to capturing images, selfies and videos using our mobile phones. Only a very brave person can predict what the next hundred years will bring!

Dr. P Ravi Shankar is a faculty member at the IMU Centre for Education (ICE), International Medical University, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. He enjoys traveling and is a creative writer and photographer.

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Serenading Sri Lanka

Photographs and Narrative by Mohul Bhowmick

Sri Lanka can be savoured best via its street food stalls; the aroma of the spices that emanates from the flurry of dishes left drying in the hot sun is supposed to hold the flavour of the country in its entirety.

Quite appropriately, I step out of the airport in Colombo just as dark clouds assemble overhead for an impromptu November gathering. The path to the bus terminal is waylaid in the melee, and the eventual taxi that comes around is met with immense gratitude for the warmth it emanates from within.

Meanwhile, the clouds have picked up pace and lambasted in full strength upon my flimsy raincoat. As the taxi — a Tata Nano — pulls out of the airport, I read a sign that tells me, rather ominously, ‘Welcome to Sri Lanka!’

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But have I arrived? The drizzle accompanies me all day even as I try to venture out northwest from my dorm near the Galle Face Green towards Independence Square and Viharamahadevi Park. The park has a tinge of tenderness that makes me long for home barely six hours after I have left.

The soldier who has been entrusted to protect the monument of Gautama in the centre of the park slights me at first by asking me to put my camera away, but something about my nationality sparks enough curiousity and reverence in him to apologise and show me around its premises.

Named after the mother of the great Sri Lankan king Dutugemunu [161-137 BCE], who united the island under his banner after generations of oppression from Indian invaders, the park is tranquil in a manner that only the moneyed can afford to be. To be welcomed here by a member of the Lankan military seems ironic to me. Quite intrinsically, I discover that the affluent neighbourhood of Cinnamon Gardens is merely a stone’s throw away.

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The sunset at Galle Face Green is where I lay my eyes upon the Indian Ocean for the first time; the gentle disappearance of the disk of fire in its graceful attire with lakhs of denizens of the city in attendance is not an event to be forgotten in a hurry.

It strikes me in the bouts of consciousness I still have with me on the start-stop train to Anuradhapura the next morning, which miraculously manages to reach the ancient capital of the island only moments after its scheduled time of arrival despite having spent about fifteen stoppages in the rough-hewn greenery of north-central Lanka.


The Isurumuni Royal Temple, Anuradhapura.

The Vanni, which separates the north from Anuradhapura, begins here, and I do not think I have gathered enough courage to bypass it just yet.

The Maha Sri Jaya Bodhi — a sapling of the Bodhi Tree under which the ascetic Sakyamuni had sat all night in meditation in the fifth century BCE and attained Enlightenment in Gaya — transposes much of the tranquillity one must have felt had Gautama himself been around; instead, hundreds of his lay followers deify his idol and consecrate his ideals with flowers and oaths of incorruptibility.

The compound where the Maha Bodhi stands allows one the permission to whisk the mind away from its constant whirl of thought and towards action based on feeling; its way, as Gautama’s, holds that offering the grant of ‘self-realisation’ to one’s fellow man is far more sumptuous a gift than an endowment of land or capital can ever accomplish.


Novice monks at the Ruwanwella Dagoba in Anuradhapura.

The Ruwanwella Dagoba, which the great Dutugemunu had painstakingly built, offers the refuge that the Maha Bodhi implores one to seek by going inwards. Two quarts of the Buddha’s relics are enshrined here, and the inflow of visitors ensures that the joyful policemen on duty are hard put to shred their visages of quietude, which one would have moments ago thought to be beyond them.

The next morning, with a German fellow traveller — whom I met at dinner while watching India decimate New Zealand on television in the semifinal of the cricket World Cup — I excavate whatever innards of peace and serenity I could from the Isurumuni Royal Temple.

My new friend from Germany tells me of of his experiences while travelling in Japan. He explains how he had made good use of the public parks (greens) at night as the locals did not use them after dark. He did not have money to sleep in hostels/ hotels and used benches in the public parks instead!

I offer him freshly plucked oranges from the gardens abutting the temple, where princes and princesses of an earlier age used to amble while seeking matches.

I get so drawn into the ethics that Gautama’s teachings must have instilled among the laypeople of the island that I almost forget to notice when my landlord — from whom I had also borrowed a bicycle — casually doubles the rate of his homestay when I check out. I learn — only much later — that he is no believer in the path Sakyamuni trod and speaks Tamil.


The Sigiriya rock fortress from afar.

Sigiriya seems much hotter than Anuradhapura1 was, and I write this even as the sun goes down and I climb up to a hidden rock far from the one which gives the town its name. The sun sets farther still from the Sigiriya Galla, and along with a bunch of British fellow travellers, I enjoy the last beads of light seeping past the horizon.

My evening is considerably brightened when our guide Vasu points me towards a green-looking hillock supposed to be the one Hanuman brought from the Himalayas as he sought for the life restoring ‘sanjeevani’ herb. While descending, a girl from Cornwall shrieks in considerable awe of the girth of the trunk of the first elephant she has ever seen.

The hike up Kasyapa’s fortress2 takes little effort, and the sparse crowd makes it feel worthwhile all the more. My newfound British friends — devoid of the SAARC3 protection of a reduced entry ticket to the top — climb the eastward facing Pidurangala instead. They tell me much later that they found the visage of Sigiriya quite appealing from the top of the latter; in a picture they show me, I cannot help but speculate that the black spot on the top of the rock was my shadow.

A dip in a hidden lake authorised by the owner of the backpacker’s hostel we are in is sprinkled liberally with views of the fortress in the backdrop; even the arrival of a slimy water snake that nibbles at my friend Jackson Price — a former telecommunications manager from Bristol — is not enough to shatter our sense of innate wellbeing.

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There is just about enough time to catch the temple near the centre of Dambulla town unawares before Rapahel Nuding — a mechanical engineer from Stuttgart — and I take the bus south to Kandy. The carvings on the rocks inspire us both differently; me to poetry and him to decode how it could possibly have been done without the help of modern-age machinery.

Kandy is damp and misty when we arrive; the flecks of raindrops prance around nicely as neither of us wants to close the window shades of the rusty old bus we are travelling in. The lake can be sensed before we can see it; within an hour, we are back in the area to witness the ceremony at the Temple of the Tooth Relic where the dante dhatu, or the tooth relic, is displayed to laypeople.

Temple of the Tooth Relic

I help Raphael tuck into his — and my first this trip — masala dosa in the hordes of Tamil restaurants near the temple; I wonder if he asks for a second helping of the mango lassi to cool his inflamed tongue down or merely because he has liked the sensation the frozen — and possibly preserved — fruit. He stays back for a day, but I sling my bag to get on the morning train to Nuwara Eliya, having had enough of the cultural capital of Lanka already.

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The bitter cold that greets me in Nuwara Eliya is only slightly lessened by the endless cups of tea that keep rolling through the night at the Laughing Leopards backpackers’ hostel. I struggle to explain to Helen Brinkmann, a post-graduate student from Dortmund, why I shall go to bed in tears having watched Australia demolish India in the final of the World Cup; the memories keep plaguing me a few days later in Ella when I sit down to get a grip upon myself and form an understanding of the ill-fated event.

Of the twin haunts of Nuwara Eliya and Ella, it is the journey that fascinates me the most; the rickety old contraption that passes off as a train is as old as I am in spirit and wanders only slightly off the gorgeous trails that have to perforce be left behind. Quite like the train, I am too enamoured by the countryside to trade it for the capital a week later.


The hills of Uva, as seen from Ella.

The hills that rise from the extensive green wildernesses filled with shrubs of undefinable assortment catch my eye in Ella, and it is some time before I can catch a grip of my sentiments and force myself to sit down. The bats and monkeys that gather in numbers at the Ravana Ella — or Ravana’s cave — scare me out of my wits before I can even put my foot into the mouth of the opening. Outside, the sun shines generously on a creek drifting past the hills in a muted whirr that only the sapient can perceive.

.

It speaks highly of the natural largesse that Sri Lanka possesses. Within hours of leaving the cool climes and peaks of Ella, I arrive at sea level, and the Indian Ocean peeks in patches to the left when the bus turns right from Matara, the southernmost tip of the isle. Indeed, I have breakfast in the hills and lunch on the coast.


Sunset at the beach in Mirissa

Mirissa, where I am headed next, brags of pristine beaches uninjured by the droves of tourists that fill it during the season. On arrival that evening, I find a rock to the west that garnishes a panorama that is stunning. My first encounter with kottu roti is astride a charitable helping of coconut sambal which my tongue finds excitable, and I tell myself that I am finally in the south.

.

Excursions are made to the beaches that litter the southern Lankan coast without rhyme or reason, or even distinction to one’s name or creed. Weligama, Midigama, Ahangama, the air force base at Koggala, Habaraduwa and Unawatuna all become names interchangeable with rapture perpetuated by the lack of inaccessibility. From another country, people struggle to reach me on my cell, and their needs stay blissfully away from my purview.

The sun shines on the coast much like it had done when I was in the west; the north and central parts of the country are barraged by untimely rains and I am glad to have left them behind.


The harbour as seen from Galle Fort.

Galle, where I am to stay for a night before heading back to Colombo, charms me out of my wits and looks askance as I walk away evincing a wry smile from the preposterous shindig that one might as well call a fort. The cricket ground stirs a longing for a home I have no rush to return to; on account of the goodwill and record I enjoy, I am allowed into the members’ stand for a gracious helping of a local under-19 match.

The entrapments that the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British had all in turn instituted — that now passes off as a spectacle of great pleasure — protect the town of Galle from outsiders, and also, it seems to me, from itself. Inward-looking to a fault, the Sinhalese of Galle have been known to open their hearts and hearths to all but those who have boasted of a skin tone less plentiful than white.

Upon being given to understand the intricacies of such delights and lodging in a palatial mansion owned by a Lankan Muslim family, I exult in the first serious gelato I have had in my life; an egg roti earlier in the day had barely served the purpose it was intended for.

.

Return to Colombo. I see the capital with eyes that I had not been endowed with when I first landed on these shores; it seems to be a lifetime ago now. The polished highway outside the President’s House, which abut the Chinese-funded port and end up at the imperial inheritance of the Galle Face Green purport me to a world I thought I had left behind in the countryside.

I put it down to my lack of vision but the night creeps up on me unannounced even as I try to trudge out of the humongous man-eating machine they call the One Galle Face shopping mall. It is not without some discomfort that I take flight, aware that it may not be for the last time.

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  1. Kingdom of Dutugemunu ↩︎
  2. Built during the reign of King Kasyapa [477-495 CE] ↩︎
  3. South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation ↩︎

Mohul Bhowmick is a national-level cricketer, poet, sports journalist, essayist and travel writer from Hyderabad, India. He has published four collections of poems and one travelogue so far. More of his work can be discovered on his website: www.mohulbhowmick.com.

PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL. 

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Slices from Life

Suga Didi

By Snigdha Agrawal

A Santhali woman

She stood somewhere at 5 feet 8 inches.  Of athletic build.  Swarthy skin. A face full of punch holes; ravages of smallpox during childhood.  Her disarming smile more than made up for the lack of a flawless complexion.  The girls were told she was being employed as their Ayah, with strict instructions to address her as ‘Didi[1]’.  The Ayah affix after her name, was a ‘no’, ‘no’ in a Bengali household.  So, it was Suga Didi right from day one. The rest of the elite living in the cosmopolitan community frowned upon such bourgeois sentiments.

Suga lived in a Santhal village, on a river bluff, surrounded by dense Sal Forest. Inaccessible by road and cut off from civilisation. The only Santhal village in the area, close to the gated community, offering employment opportunities to the tribals. Not that they were keen on leaving the village to work in the steel and brick factories. Suga was the one-off amongst them venturing out from her cloistered society.  She arrived for the interview, hair oiled, drawn back from her face tied into a chignon, and dressed in a cotton saree with a red border, way above her ankles. The blouse was missing. Her attire would surely be viewed as improper in the elitist community.    She spoke in the Santhal dialect, with words common to Bengali and Hindi.  Amenable to change, she did not resist the suggestion of wearing a blouse, nor letting down the saree border to her ankles, when reporting for work.  Agreed happily to the working hours from 6.30 am to 4.30 pm, five days a week.  During school vacations, morning reporting was pushed back to 8.30 am. 

The decision to employ Suga was borne out of necessity. With four growing girls, aged between fourteen and four, or thereabouts, it was becoming increasingly difficult for their mother to handle all the chores.  Plaiting their hair, getting them dressed for school, ironing uniforms, and accompanying them to the school Bus stand, were some of the many activities entrusted to her.  Add to that, the role of a luggage carrier.  With four school bags, piled on her head, and four tiffin baskets weighed down with filled water bottles, hand-held, she shepherded the girls safely, morning and evening.  It wasn’t an easy walk. There were open drains to cross.  Heavily loaded truck movement posed a serious problem as well. She guarded them like her own. Taking care of the girls when they got home from school was also included. Occasionally, when the mood was right, she shared ancient tribal folklore, sometimes breaking into a song. 

The eldest of the four had read stories of tribal practices.  Witchcraft.  Human sacrifice.  Eating wild animals.  Men and women drinking ‘mahua’ toddy. Suga was questioned on the validity of all this to which, she neither denied nor confirmed.  Tribal secrets were not for the ears of the civilized. But she couldn’t ward off the pestering from the girls for long.  And went on to narrate the story of the Santhal deity, Bonga, visiting their village on a moonless night, in the guise of a king cobra to drive away the bad spirits living on the edge of the forest, responsible for killing the cattle.  Quietly slithering on the muddy terrain, the twelve-feet reptile, held the spirits captive, performing a wild dance with its raised hood.  And then struck.  The spirits screamed and fled, never to return. The village headsman invited the cobra for dinner, sharing toddy and barbequed lizards.  That was not the end of the story.  Suga concluded that the snake dissatisfied with the host, gobbled his head from neck upwards.  The girls held onto each other shocked out of their wits.  A bizarre ending.  Doubts were raised as to whether the story was real or imaginary, made up by Suga Didi.  Many such stories found their way into the older one’s scrapbook.  Later found in the steel trunk, along with old photos, discovered by the younger two. 

When Birbhadra the cook took leave to visit home, Suga filled in, helping out with cutting, and clipping the meat and fish.  All the preparatory work for cooking the meals.  Prepared by the lady of the house.  The girls were curious to know what Suga cooked at home. Her stock answer was hot, spicy, and unpalatable.  Their persistent pleading to cook a tribal dish at some point bore fruit. Reluctantly, she agreed to treat the household with a recipe, made from goat innards. The butcher supplying meat was duly informed to send the liver, fat, spleen, heart and intestines.  “Eww, gross!”  But not so, when the dish arrived on the dining table.  Blood red with a film of fat floating on the top, garnished with freshly chopped coriander leaves.  In no time it was polished off.  Delicious!  Delicious! All exclaimed.  Suga was on cloud nine that day.  They named the dish “Chagol Pagol Curry[2]”.  Suga’s signature dish.

It was the spring of 1959.  By then, the older girls had left for boarding school.  Younger ones then six, were pretty much able to ready themselves for school on their own. Suga’s workload had halved.  For most of her free time, she took upon herself the role of gardener, attending to the vegetable garden, and advising the gardener on how best to get good yields from her experience of growing vegetables in the village.  The smell of ‘bidi[3]’ wafting into the porch, meant the two were sharing a smoke.    

And then for over a week during that summer, she had not reported for work. Alarm bells rang in the household.  Had she fallen ill?  Had she died of cobra poisoning?  Had she been thrown out from the village for violating the rules?  Worst still, was she a victim of human sacrifice?  Concerns that kept the family awake.  No one knew her address, except that she belonged to the Santhal village on the river bluff, inaccessible to non-tribals.  A security guard from the factory was sent to find out if the headsman could be summoned to the river, under the ruse of gifting him Scotch whiskey.  Didn’t work.   No one responded to the call, announced with a handheld loudspeaker.  Several attempts were made to no avail.  Rumours mills were churning out stories of her having eloped with the cook, Birbhadra, though it made no logical sense.  Happily married with a dozen or so kids living in Begusarai, he could least afford a second wife.  Though coincidentally, Birbhadra left employment around the time Suga was out of the radar.     

It was decided there was no further need to employ a nanny aka ‘didi’ for the girls. Suga was the first and the last.  Irreplaceable.   She remains an enigma to date.

.

[1] Elder sister

[2] Crazy goat curry

[3] A type of cheap cigarette made of unprocessed tobacco wrapped in leaves

Snigdha Agrawal (nee Banerjee) is a published author of four books and a regular contributor to anthologies.  A septuagenarian, she writes in all genres of poetry, prose, short stories and travelogues.

PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

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Slices from Life

Healing Intellectual Disabilities

By Meenakshi Pawha

Disability is an inevitable condition that affects nearly everyone at some stage, and its duration can vary from brief to prolonged. It is an inherent aspect of human beings. Recently, I read An Unplanned Journey: Stories of Empathy from the Frontiers of Intellectual and Developmental Disabilities by Naval Pant which offers a tapestry of poignant and compelling accounts of real-life experiences of individuals with developmental and intellectual disabilities that comprise both children and adults with special needs.

Naval Pant, the author, has discovered an invigorating perspective on the complex subject of disability. Spanning a wide range of disabilities, such as autism, language and speech impairments, Down syndrome, cerebral palsy, and Intellectual and Developmental Disabilities (IDD), the author offers a nuanced, in-depth knowledge of the characteristics of these challenges, as well as specific strategies for assisting children in maximising their cognitive and emotional capabilities.

He obtained a degree in Mathematical Statistics but transitioned to Educational Philosophy for his postgraduate studies and PhD. In 2005, he established an organisation dedicated to providing high-quality services for individuals with intellectual and developmental disabilities (IDDs). He strongly advocates for their comprehensive development, rehabilitation, and vocational training within an inclusive setting. His book contains a collection of fourteen stories straight from the heart. This book is unique. The book’s unconventional subject matter, crafted by a perceptive author, compelled me to hold the book in my hand and examine its plush velvet cover, awestruck by its captivating title.

I commenced reading swiftly flipping through the pages with eager speed. The author employs a distinctive storytelling style and smoothly transitions the readers from one story to another. In the introductory chapter, Naval Pant declares that “This narrative is thus at once an autobiographical account, a memoir of the institution we built, a chronicle of the heroic struggles of young children and some of my learnings from serving in the field of special needs education.”

The first story is the only fictionalised account in the collection. The rest emanate from deep lived experiences of Naval Pant and his team of dedicated teachers. “Until you have a kid with special needs, you have no idea of the depth of your own strength, tenacity, and resourcefulness” is the quote which begins the second chapter, “An Unplanned Journey”. It sets the tone of the book as well. It tells us, “There is no roadmap on this island…You don’t know its topography…your situation is unique…Gradually, you learn to accept your situation.”

The concluding chapter delves into the various services extended by his institution, its fundamental tenets and educational philosophy, and the difficulties encountered in a post-pandemic society. It adequately reiterates the organisation’s spiritual drivers that result in the forging relationships between the teachers and the students free from dominance or authority and encourages communication between them. He shows how it is beneficial to prioritise a culture of engagement in educational institutions not rooted in hierarchy. What stood out most prominently for me was the language and tone of the book. The text is highly readable, resembling a casual dialogue between intimate acquaintances. It employs common words, concepts, and ideas, rendering it remarkably engaging and riveting. The book lacks is a narrative that fleshes out the myriad challenges and barriers that caregivers and their children are confront with in society on a daily basis. While it alludes to the topic, it does not extensively investigate or analyse it.

The strength of the book resides in its consistent provision of solutions for every topic it addresses. Naval Pant’s book offers valuable motivation for individuals with impairments and parents and educators who must confront daunting challenges. These stories serve as sources of inspiration, promoting good change in students’ lives and fostering hope, peace, and potential for transformation. Although the book extensively explores the topic of disabilities and its related difficulties, the main message that resonates is the admirable quality of a courageous and tenacious individual who perseveres and harnesses his experiences to foster personal growth rather than succumbing to bitterness. The author does not experience the sorrow that accompanies the task of raising a child with disability. The book illustrates the significant endeavour required to effect substantial transformations worldwide.

The book will be of enormous interest to parents, special educators, disability experts and non-profit organisations interacting with these stakeholders. Unquestionably, engaging with this book will undoubtedly stimulate contemplation over the future of education in Disability Studies for both theorists and practitioners.

Meenakshi Pawha is a retired professor from the University of Lucknow.

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Slices from Life

    When the Cobra came Home

By Antara Mukherjee

A strange thing happened.

A cobra came to our house in Burdwan two days ago. It stayed for few minutes in the washroom downstairs and then vanished in the dark. The caretakers were terribly frightened. They wanted to kill it by any means. When I got the call, I told them to wait for some time without even trying to do anything. Somehow, I knew it would go away on its own. And it did.

My mind raced back to the years when I was in school. One evening, to our horror, a cobra was discovered in my brother’s bedroom on the second floor. We shouted our heart out while my mother kept staring at it in silence with folded hands. After few seconds, it magically vanished. She looked at the calendar, hanging from the wall, and in a calm tone, declared that it wasn’t an ordinary cobra but Goddess Manasa, the Goddess of snakes, who came to ask for her annual worship; she further told us that whenever this would happen in future no one should try to do any harm to the snake but prepare to offer favourites to the Goddess.

Strangely, snakes kept visiting our house, infrequently though, before Manasa puja[1] and my mother wasted no time in preparing for her annual offerings. She, however, never cooked the day before, as was the usual practice related to the annual worship known as Aarandhan or No-Cooking Day. It is a ritual where Bengali households refrained from cooking on the day of worship and ate whatever had been cooked the day before, after offering the same to the Goddess. Neither the typical menu associated with Aarandhan— for instance, five types of vegetable fritters, vegetable mishmash, mixed vegetables, varied fish preparations and sweet dishes — nor the practice of eating previously cooked meal was a part of my mother’s annual worship of the Goddess. Her way of honouring the Goddess was a matter of pleasing her with a personal touch, something that was beyond the shackles of set rituals. As I grew up and got entangled in all sorts of activities, I hardly cared to ask her about such serpentine visitations. I don’t recall any such occurrences in the last seven-eight years until day before yesterday.

My mother was deeply religious and immensely superstitious. She had her own worldview about things, especially anything related to Goddess Kali — Goddess Manasa, being an incarnation, was quite honoured by her, though Manasa was not the coveted Goddess to be worshipped. In our locality, Viswakarma[2] puja, which falls on the last day of the Bengali month Bhadra, that is mid-September, is observed with huge pomp and glitter as we live in the same locality where the main power supply plant of Burdwan is located. On the same day of Viswakarma puja, Manasa puja is also observed. Close to the boundary of our house, every year a huge pandal is constructed by the working-class people and a sort of community meal is served. My mother never went to the power supply plant to offer puja, but to the pandal for Manasa. She strongly believed that it is her devotion that kept the snakes/evil away from her three children. When we would become unmindful of the power of Goddess, she told us, Manasa would send her agent to remind us!

As I have hardly believed in my mother’s self-constructed logic, I never subscribed to her practices. But, this time, with the cobra coming home, I felt I was being instructed to offer something to Manasa. I couldn’t believe myself doing this, but I called up the caretakers and coordinated so that Manasa got her favourites from us.

“Rinku, please buy some fruits, milk and a packet of sweets and offer it to Goddess Manasa tomorrow. Make sure that you remember doing this.”  I gave clear instructions to our homehelp.

In my mind, I prepared myself to visit the Goddess the next day, to see how she was doing!

Before the car took a turn towards Power House Para, my locality, Kumar Sanu[3]‘s powerful nasal tone that dominated my adolescence, reached my ears:

“Tu meri zindegi hai/Tu meri har khushi hai/Tu hi pyaar tuhi chahat /Tu hi aashiqui hai…(You are my life/You are my joy/You are my desire/You are my love) [4]

This song from the movie, Aashiqui[5], welled up fragments of my past. There used to be a time when I waited for ‘Pujor gaan‘ or  Bengali songs released during the puja. Almost all the notable singers of the time came up with new albums, yet Kumar Sanu was the unrivalled King. I passed my teens and jumped into adulthood with his superhit song – ‘Priyotoma mone rekho (‘Keep me in your heart, sweetheart’).’ That afternoon, after more than two decades, I heard him singing, again – ‘Koto je sagar nadi periye elam ami /Koto poth holam je paar/Tomar moton eto oporup shundor/ Dekhini to kauke je aar...(‘I crossed the seas/I walked through ways/ The beauty that you are/ I haven’t met’).’ Almost hypnotised, I got down from the car and walked straight to the direction of the pandal. I needed no Pied Piper from Hamlin; we, Bengalis have our own, the nasal Sanu. The closer I got, the louder he sang. Soon, familiar faces surfaced —

“Good to see you.” Lahiri Aunty shouted from her balcony.

“Same here.” I shouted back

The Lahiris and the Mukherjees are literally ‘samne wali khidki’[6], existing on the opposite lane, of Power House Para[7]. While my mother and Aunty went on talking for hours from their respective balconies, the doctor husbands silently attended to their respective patients in their respective chambers downstairs — a practice that went on for almost forty years.

The weather-beaten balconies have witnessed to the transformations in both the families. Lahiri Aunty was still standing on hers, while ours was empty. Instantly, I found myself standing there at the wee hours of a certain nineties morning, when Kumar Sanu was ruling the music industry and Uncle, the field of Dermatology, watching my father rushing to the Lahiris. Within few moments, our red telephone rang. I came inside and my mother told me to follow her immediately to the Lahiris. Inside their first-floor bedroom, for the second time in my life, I saw a dead body. Uncle’s eyes were closed. Aunty sat motionless. My mother went the window and sat beside her dear friend. I had nothing to do. I kept staring at various showpieces collected by them from all over the world. When my grandfather died couple of years earlier than Uncle, I had my cousin, Tiya, to play with me. We had our freedom then; the elders were busy. It was fun. Death had no power to scratch me, even though I saw a dead body for the very first time.

At the Lahiris that morning, not a sound could be heard. A house where harmonium, tabla and sitar existed in harmony, was unusually quiet. After Uncle, however, Aunty continued to sing but Kumar Sanu never ever dared to peep into her bedroom. She had the classics of Bengali music for her company. In contrast, I welcomed everyone in my life. From Kishore Kumar to Rafi, from Kumar Sanu to Udit Narayan, from Baba Saigal to Apache Indian etc[8], I brought all the cassettes that were available in the market. I was largely spoiled by my elder brother. Madonna, Michael Jackson, Backstreet Boys, Spice Girls, Harry Belafonte, Elton John, Phil Collins etc[9] were supplied by him and by some of my school friends. It was my elder brother who inculcated in me a deep love for what he called the four pillars of Hindi music: Kishore Kumar-Asha Bhonsle -R.D. Burman-Gulzar. I was in class eight when I heard ‘Sei rate rat chilo purnima/Mon chilo falguni hawate[10] (‘It was a full moon night/ my mind wandered in the spring air’)’. I replayed it ten times in our old, black tape-recorder. A hot and humid afternoon seemed so breezy then. And when dusk came, I became a moon-gazer. I have never stopped looking at the gorgeous lady ever since.

Since Viswakarma, Manasa and Kali pujas were observed in our locality with much gusto, I got the chance to listen to and update myself with the recent puja releases. At the same time, I also became aware of the oldies. A locality mostly consisting of doctors, engineers and professors, the choice of songs played was up to a certain standard. It was only when I went to one of the most notorious of colleges in town that I became acquainted with the masala numbers and I loved them! With time, the second generation took hold of the pujas and likewise the choice of songs to be played underwent a rapid change. Soft, romantic numbers as well as Jhankar beats were preferred. It was a time when Kumar Sanu gave voice to all the Khans — Shah Rukh, Salman, Amir [11]— and to seniors like Jackie, Anil and Sanjay[12]. Amongst Bengali Puja songs, Kumar Sanu somehow managed to coexist with the neo-liberal paracetamols of the nineties – Suman, Anjan and Nachiketa[13]. When ‘Bhoomi’, a Bengali band, swayed us with their hit songs, all sweethearts or ‘priyotomas’ were earnestly desired through Sanu’s nasal voice. The loudspeakers constantly amplified Sanu’s songs — be it the contemporary Bengali numbers or Bollywood hits. He was, as if, the unavoidable menu in our daily music-buffet.

My mother was cool about the change in the songs being played in our para-pandals but her friend, Lahiri Aunty, probably, was not. Bathed in the classics of Nirmala Mishra, Kanika Bandyopadhyay, Satinath Mukhopadhyay et al, she shut all her doors and windows when the speakers howled – ‘Ke bole Thakuma tomar / boyesh periye geche aashi! (It is unbelievable that Grandma/ you have crossed eighty)’– another Sanu blockbuster! She kept herself confined within the four walls and rarely came out in the balcony. Ma was always downstairs, on the streets, without caring which song was being played. Her attention was fixed at the puja, be it Kali or Manasa.

I don’t remember Lahiri Aunty joining her during Manasa Puja. But she enthusiastically participated during Kali Puja’s final ritualistic bidding adieu to the goddess, boron, and then,  in sindoor khela[14], a community practice where married women smear each other’s cheeks with vermilion powder. Aunty was the first to do boron and then to start the typical sindoor khela. Unmarried girls like us were not spared either. I disliked the rubbing of vermilion in my cheeks but who had the courage to say ‘no’ to her? After Uncle passed away, she stopped coming for boron and my mother, in solidarity, refrained herself from participating in the play. But nothing, absolutely nothing, could deter her from the elaborate preparation for the puja.

“So, puja means you would get a chance to harm your body by eating those items which you are not supposed to eat, right?” I often rebuked my mother.

“You are mistaken. I don’t eat anything. I offer everything to the Lord.” She was always ready with her defence.

I strongly believe that it was her blind devotion and irrationalities that drove her astray. I could no longer tolerate any ritual after her cremation. However, within one-and-half-year of her passing away, strangely enough, that same me, was standing in front of a Snake Goddess and repeating what her mother used to do.

*

“Here, take some prasad[15],” Nitai, the little boy of yesteryear, now a responsible local boy, in-charge of the Durga puja, offered a plate full of fruits and sweets. I don’t know for how long I was standing at the steps to the mandir[16]. His husky voice jolted me out of my inertia.

“How are you doing?” I asked him.

“Oh, I am very busy. Where were you yesterday?” He questioned

“I have just come.”

“I hope you’ll be with us during Durga puja?”

With no one waiting for me at home, why should I come to Burdwan during that time? I asked myself. Why should I pray to the Goddess whose annual visit, three years back, robbed me of my greatest treasure? My wounds were still fresh.

 He probably read my silence.

“Don’t worry at all. Uncle and Aunty have left the world but we are there for you. It’s where you were born. It’s your locality. Your roots are here. You must come.”

The para or locality where I grew up has changed a lot. My life, too, underwent massive transformations. Nobody awaits my arrival here anymore. Yet some things remain. Most importantly, my past remains, my root remains, my delightful memories remain. And in them, my parents still breathe. Why should I stop myself from generating further memories? Why won’t I live for my happiness too?

 I smiled and assured him that I will be back. He was still holding the plate of Prasad.

“I have given up sweets. I am taking a piece of cucumber, okay?”

“This is the blessing from Goddess. Nothing will happen if you take some,” he insisted.

Greedily, I picked up a batasha, a flat, coarse whitish sweet, and started to munch on. Ah! that heavenly feeling! When did I last eat a full batasha? I could not remember. We now have fancy sweets as prasad. The indigenous sweets like batasha, nokuldana — tiny, roundish sugary substance —  are fast vanishing from the platter of Bengali prasad.

During our childhood, nokuldanas and batashas had been middle-class Bengalees’ coveted folk-sweets. Roshogollas, pantuas or even malpuas, traditional Bengali sweets, were prepared by my mother on special days. But we always had jars of nokuldanas and batashas readily available at home. For an unannounced guest, a domestic help, a hungry beggar, the next-door child and, most importantly, for me, always looking out for something to munch on, batashas were generously distributed. However, she disliked my habit of stealing them from her Gods! Normally, after daily puja, I, reflexively, snatched batashas from her offerings and, in no time, crunched them inside my mouth. She cursed me for being so impatient. In those days, contrary to the softness of Bengali sweets, the crispy sound and feel of both nakuldana and batasha gave me an unparalleled satisfaction of winning over an invisible opponent.

After the ritualistic offerings, when my mother went inside her room to change (normally, she wore a special white and red saree for Puja purposes), I practically, ‘stole’ all the nokuldanas and batashas from the small silvery plates of her Gods and Goddesses. They were readily available candy to me. After her evening worship or during Satyanarayan puja, I watched with rapt attention the making of shinni– a semi liquid mixture of flour, banana, batasha, sweets, milk and dry fruits, treated as a special offering to the Gods. Particularly, I watched her hands, mercilessly squeezing the bananas, breaking the batashas and mixing milk and curd until it formed a smooth, soft semi-solid paste. We were at loggerheads, for her unmindful crushing of the batashas irked me to the core. It was, as if, she was bent on breaking the backbone of my childhood fantasies. I enjoyed the masculinity of the batashas amongst her otherwise feminine palate of prasad. I still avoid crushing batashas. I feel terrible to see them silently  disintegrate.

My precious memories of this rustic sweet were challenged by the Bengal politician, Anubrata’s gur-batasha politics; like a palimpsest, the visuals of my mother’s white cream-like smooth right hand, adorned with gold rings, a red and golden bangles, submerged in a copper tumbler full of flour, milk, fruits and batasha, surfaced in my mind. Ironically enough, the last desert which she ate before she passed away was shinni and, in all probability, it caused infection in her blood. An insulin-dependent, dialysis patient, after all, was not supposed to take such concentrated sweet items. But it was impossible to rationalise her. In Nitai’s plate of prasad, I saw her hand and felt the touch on my palm, as if asking me to take another sweet from it. But I controlled myself. I am not going to spoil my body after having witnessed the gradual disintegration of my mother’s body due to uncontrolled diabetes.

“Goodbye. We shall meet soon.” I waved at Nitai and left the pandal.

As I came home, instructions followed: “Rinku, please spread carbolic acid properly. We cannot take any risk with snakes.”

“Don’t worry. Snakes won’t come now. It came to ask for Puja. Your mother used to worship Manasa. Now that she is not there, you’ll have to carry forward the tradition.”

Rinku spoke like a philosopher. I was surprised to find her so relaxed! Just two days back she almost fainted when the Cobra had come.

I looked at my mother, hanging from the wall, and smiled.

“So you will make me do such things even in your invisible mode!” I communicated to her in silence.

Just then, it started to rain. I saw her smiling back at me.

Like the images of my mother’s jars of mixed pickle, her stories are stored in the depth of my unconscious mind. Whenever I need to energise myself, I take a scoop out and revitalise myself, the physical destruction of her body notwithstanding.

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[1] Praying, normally in a community festival in this case

[2] The architect to the Hindu pantheon of Gods.

[3] Kedarnath Bhattacharya, popularly known as Kumar Sanu, a playback singer in India

[4] Hindi Bollywood song

[5]  Bollywood film translates to ‘Romance’ from Hindi  

[6] A reference to a popular Bollywood song – translates to ‘the window in front’

[7] Locality

[8] Indian popular singers

[9] Western pop singers

[10] A song by Kishore Kumar

[11] Bollywood actors

[12] Bollywood actors

[13] Bengali pop singers

[14] Sindoor is the vermilion powder worn by married women in the partings of their hair and Khela means play in Bengali. Women play with sindoor to bid the Goddess farewell.

[15] Offering of food for Gods

[16] Temple

Antara Mukherjee is the editor of three books and a Member of Review Boards of International Journals. She is a part of West Bengal Educational Service, Govt of West Bengal. She is presently teaching at the Dept. of English, Durgapur Govt College.

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Categories
Slices from Life

The Old Man

By Munaj Gul Baloch

I enjoy traveling; it’s a passion that still burns within me. The thrill of exploring mountains, rivers, forests, and historical places gives me immense pleasure. One particular memory stands out—the cloudy morning of 2017, when Hasnain and I embarked on a journey to our friend’s place in Dasht Kunchti, located in the district of Kech in Balochistan.

Our companionship was unique; we often found ourselves lost in thoughts, discussing social issues, the beauty of rain, clouds, and mountains. Nature mingled with our essence, and we couldn’t breathe without adventures. Traveling two or three places in a month became a part of our life, and our Sundays were always filled with stories, both blue and happy.

Our journeys left us with recollections, more potent than lessons, that lingered in our minds. What we saw, we will never forget; it’s ingrained in the subconscious.

Let me share the story of our journey to Dasht Kunchti, a trip that etched its beauty and meaning in our lives forever. Traveling a distance of two to three hours on a bumpy road was no easy feat, especially when the path was desolate with no shops and few fellow travelers, as was the case on the Jalbar road from Kolaho to Dasht.

When we started, the sky was cloudy, and a gentle breeze accompanied our ride. The beauty of the journey lay in the gratifying weather and the captivating mountain scenery. While crossing Jalbar, by a river between Dasht and Kolaho, we encountered a seventy-year-old man on the way to a waterfall. He seemed confused about the routs. Sensing his need for help, we offered him a ride on our bike.

Silence prevailed initially, as we were strangers. Names were exchanged, and the old man soon started talking, relishing our company. The conversation was both challenging and heartwarming. At some point, he thanked us and reiterated the need for kindness: ” Thank you for your help. I know you are students. Always be kind to other human beings, now and even after your graduation as you have been to me.” His message still resonates.

As we approached the waterfall, he urged us to stop, warning us of the impending rain. “Pass this river quickly; there is no alternative. When it rains, this river flows with much water for hours,” he said. And he disappeared into the mists of time.

In the six years that have passed, I’ve come to understand the need for kindness, especially given the current times. As they say, the hands that help others are holier than the lips that pray. The old man sought to convey that kindness is a universal language. It enriches the behaviour of souls, bringing joy to the giver and solace to the receiver.

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Munaj Gul Muhammad writes for different national newspapers and has won Agahi Award (Pakistan’s biggest Journalism Awards) in the category of Human Rights in 2018. He can be reached at munaj1baloch@gmail.com. 

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Categories
Slices from Life

Wayward Wayanad

Narratives and Photographs by Mohul Bhowmick

Chembra stands out imperceptibly in the background as the mist descends over its northern side. The driver of the rickety auto-rickshaw in which I make the topsy-turvy trip from Kalpetta settles to drop me at the backpacker’s hostel at Chembra’s foothills for 500 rupees. A vast tea estate stretches out for as far as the eye can see, and it is only when one edges closer to the property’s north-western precipice is any semblance of Wayanad encountered. 

Originally a hospital set up by the British in the 1920s, the hostel is a renovated colonial-style structure with a vast corridor that runs parallel to its rooms. I learnt much later that the tea estate that houses the hostel is spread over 700 acres. The fall to the northwest is spectacular, with hills in the lower range of the Western Ghats basking in the late evening sun as it makes its way down to the low-country orbs of Mysore and Chamarajanagar.

It is no surprise that one has to cross Bandipur to reach Wayanad in the first place; any easier and one would have been tempted to think that one was within the anonymity of civilisation.

*

Earlier in the day, the elephants that I spotted from an unobtrusive window on the bus from Mysore seemed triumphant and exultant — for what I did not know. The egret that sat contentedly upon the shoulders of a rather guileless water buffalo winked at me as I struggled to bring my camera out of the mishmash that my backpack had become. I was reminded of an older boy with whom I never got along in school and who often bullied me for the pancakes my mother painstakingly packed. 

*

I am forced to snap out of this reverie when my hostess reminds me that elephants were spotted at the southern expanses of the property a few days ago. She asks me to not step out after dark. In the common area boasting of a sit-out on a makeshift tree house, a motley crew from all hues of life rejoice at what appears to be a joint venture launched by a businessman from Bangalore and an engineer from Bombay. I join the pack and am welcomed by a loud cheer.

John, a chartered accountant who rode all the way from Coimbatore on his imported motorcycle, recounts having seen a leopard when turning in one of the several snaking curves when climbing from Kalpetta. He slurs as he articulates and his eyes appear bloodshot; I know only too well to separate the wheat from the chaff. Advait, a veterinarian from Anantapur, rebuffs everything that John says and vociferously advocates for an early dinner. He is, quite promptly, turned down.

*

The trek towards the peak of Chembra is made through the heartland of the eponymous forest range. Langurs peer out inadvertently while a flying squirrel makes an appearance from its cosmic abode. Catching sight of me and my companions’ incongruously sunscreened visages, it jumps shyly onto the double-storied Bo where it has made its home. Murali, the young forest officer who accompanies us jokes with Estelle, the German lady who quite fortuitously chooses to trek in her Birkenstock footwear, about sightings of bears in the vicinity but restrains himself when she turns ashen white. 

The heart-shaped lake peeks with unabashed curiosity as we huff and puff our way up to the midway point of the trek. To our great consternation, this is where we have to end our trip as the summit of the peak is sealed off by the government. A few years ago, Murali tells us, a group of nincompoops who made it to the summit lit a couple of cigarettes to celebrate. They did not, however, stub them when they were done. What happened next is well documented — a forest fire of gargantuan scale that wiped out about 60 hectares of forest land and claimed the lives of hundreds of wild animals. The summit has been off-limits to travellers ever since. 

The parched outcrops that surround the lake by no means diminish the panorama that lies to the west. A faint countenance of the vast fields of tea and paddy which fortify the district of Wayanad is visible through the mist. It is almost noon, but my companions and I find no reason to shed our coats. Specks of Mohit Chauhan’s Phir Se Ud Chala[1] fill the air; it feels as if Chembra herself has come to life. 

It is not exactly wise, but we surrender to the lure of lying down on the grass and bask, cocooned by the benevolent gaze of Chembra. Dark clouds brew overhead but Begum Akhtar reassures us in her palliative voice, and it is not before the first drops fall on my forehead that I alert the others over our predicament. Unsurprisingly, I find that most of my friends had nodded off, obliged by the exercise and the accompanying iridescent breeze. 

*

The descent, as always, is trickier than the climb, and we take refuge from the rain under a giant rock midway. The shelter is insubstantial for a group of ten, and we end up getting soaked to the skin anyway. Murali, rather ingeniously, offers his service raincoat to Estelle. Much to his chagrin, she declines, and continues unabated in her soaking t-shirt, Nike track pants and Birkenstocks. Someone mentions a childhood spent in the Bavarian Alps…

Dry leaves fall from the trees — these untimely showers ensure that they are not held on to their material comforts for long — and the fauna we encountered on the way up seemed to have disappeared. The langurs call out occasionally, but the mynahs respond in dulcet tones of their own. 

Drenched to the core yet alive beyond measure, the rain loses significance as we meander down the trail. Consciousness makes itself felt in every cell of my body as I lumber past the sludge and try to find a foothold on the wet tracks. Awake to the moment and mindful of not slipping — essentially holding my life in my hands — I experience a pacifying sense of tranquillity that I normally associate with timing a straight drive back past the bowler on a cloudy afternoon at the Gymkhana.

Damp pathways mark our way back to the hostel. On the way, an appetising breakfast of puttu and kadala curry[2] is sought to calm our nerves. A gulp of tea, brewed from the plants of the estate on which our hostel stands, soothes and brings some warmth back into our bodies. After that, we sleep all afternoon. The 1980s restaurant at this point serves as a reputable hotbed for the exchange of accounts as fellow travellers make their way upcountry for further investigation. Krishnagiri, Edakkal, Banasura and even Ooty, among other places, feature on their itinerary. Buses out of Meppadi take the circuitous route towards Sultan Bathery via Kalpetta. A few companions remain as I make the hike back to the hostel. 

Last vestiges of the raindrops from earlier in the day cling on with pride on the tea leaves. Seen from a distance as we walk up the bend onto the track that leads to the hostel’s gates, it appears as if the leaves have shed tears of their own. 

The sky turns a dull shade of orange, almost as if playing testament to friendships made and attachments uncovered. I am content enough to watch the sunset over the lower Western Ghats as another pre-monsoon drizzle wafts in. Someone mentions a fresh batch of pazham pori[3] being made in the kitchen. I scramble down the tree house to beat the rush.

[1] Song from Bollywood movie, Rockstar. Translates to: He flew again

[2] Local fare. Rice cake and spicy chick pea curry

[3] Banana Fritters

Mohul Bhowmick is a national-level cricketer, poet, sports journalist, essayist and travel writer from Hyderabad, India. He has published four collections of poems and one travelogue so far. More of his work can be discovered on his website: www.mohulbhowmick.com.

PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL. 

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

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