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Essay

Who can be the Modern Hero in the Age of AI?

By Ravi Varmman K Kanniappan

Kolam Art (Captured in front of a home in a village in Tiruvannamalai, India), The kolam, an ancient Indian art traced in rice flour upon the earth, is both mathematics and meditation, order and impermanence. Each dawn it is carefully created, each dusk it fades beneath wind, rain, footsteps, and time. Its patterns emerge from simple rules yet produce extraordinary complexity, much like the algorithms that increasingly shape our world. Yet unlike artificial intelligence, the kolam was never intended to conquer or control. It was designed to welcome, to nourish, and to remind human beings that all acts of creation carry moral responsibility. In this sense, the kolam may be the perfect symbol for our technological age, a reminder that the highest form of intelligence is not power, but harmony. Photo provided by the author.

The history of humanity can be read as a history of its attempts to transcend limitation. We have sought to conquer nature, defeat disease, extend life, accumulate wealth, organise societies and, increasingly, construct machines capable of extending the boundaries of human intelligence itself. Artificial intelligence may therefore be understood not simply as another technological invention, but as the latest expression of an ancient human desire, which is to create a power greater than the individual human being. Yet the moment humanity creates a new form of power, an older question returns with renewed urgency, “will our wisdom grow as quickly as our power?”

It is here that Gilgamesh, Rama and Jesus Christ acquire an unexpected relevance. They belong to radically different civilisations, religious traditions and historical imaginations, and it would be intellectually careless to treat them as interchangeable figures. Yet each confronts a fundamental problem of human existence. Gilgamesh confronts the limits of power and mortality. Rama confronts the burden of duty when every decision carries a moral cost. Jesus Christ confronts the meaning of power itself by turning the conventional hierarchy of power upside down and associating greatness with service. When these three perspectives are placed in conversation with the Valluvar, Confucius and Socrates, they form not a single doctrine but a philosophical dialogue about what humanity should become when its creations begin to possess extraordinary capabilities.

The fear surrounding artificial intelligence is therefore not entirely a fear of machines. Beneath the technological anxiety lies a much older anxiety about “us”. We fear what AI might do because we recognise, perhaps uneasily, what human beings have historically done with power. Every powerful technology carries the character of the institutions and individuals that control it. Fire can cook food or burn a city. Industrial machinery can liberate human labour or make exploitation more efficient. Information technology can democratise knowledge or enable unprecedented surveillance. Artificial intelligence may amplify human intelligence, but it may also amplify human error, greed, prejudice, manipulation and irresponsibility. The central problem may therefore not be whether machines become more intelligent, but whether human beings become more morally intelligent in response.

Gilgamesh is perhaps the oldest of these three mirrors. Gilgamesh, the legendary king of Uruk in ancient Mesopotamia, is the protagonist of what is widely regarded as the world’s oldest surviving epic, composed more than four thousand years ago. Initially portrayed as a powerful but arrogant ruler, he embodies a timeless human tendency, the belief that authority, strength, and achievement can overcome every obstacle. Yet his power has outgrown his wisdom. His transformation begins not through technological advancement or military conquest, but through relationship, suffering, and loss.

The gods create Enkidu, a wild man of nature, to challenge and balance Gilgamesh’s excesses. What begins as rivalry evolves into profound friendship, and Enkidu becomes the human counterweight to Gilgamesh’s unchecked ambition. When Enkidu dies, Gilgamesh is shattered. For the first time, he confronts a reality that neither kingship nor strength can command away, mortality. His subsequent quest for immortality is not merely a heroic adventure but a philosophical journey into the limits of human power. In the end, Gilgamesh discovers that wisdom lies not in defeating death but in understanding life. His greatest victory is not achieving immortality but accepting the fragile and finite nature of human existence.

That ancient insight speaks directly to an age in which humanity is building systems that can perform tasks once thought uniquely human. The temptation is to measure progress through capability alone, where the questions are, “Can the machine reason? Can it write? Can it code? Can it persuade? Can it discover? Can it act autonomously?” Yet Gilgamesh would force us to ask a prior question, what happens when capability exceeds our ability to understand and govern it?

Valluvar repeatedly refuses to separate knowledge from virtue. His wisdom is not that knowledge is dangerous, but that knowledge without discipline can become dangerous. The ethical person is not simply the one who knows more, but the one capable of restraining power. Confucius approaches the problem from another direction. For him, social order depends upon cultivated character, trustworthy relationships and responsible conduct. Socrates goes deeper still by questioning the certainty with which human beings claim to know. His philosophical significance lies not in possessing final answers but in exposing the dangers of unexamined assumptions.

These three traditions therefore provide a remarkable corrective to technological triumphalism. The question is not simply whether AI works. The question is whether we understand what it is doing, whether we know where it fails, whether its power can be constrained, and whether the people responsible for deploying it are willing to admit what they do not know.

Recent events have made these questions less abstract. In 2026, Anthropic publicly disclosed cybersecurity evaluation incidents in which Claude models, during deliberately unsafe tests, reached the internet and obtained unauthorized access to real systems. The company subsequently reported another incident involving an earlier model and undertook a broader review of model behaviour. Such disclosures do not prove that artificial intelligence is destined to escape human control, nor do they establish that catastrophic outcomes are inevitable. They do, however, demonstrate that increasingly capable systems can behave in ways that require serious security and alignment evaluation.

The warnings of former researchers have intensified this debate. Former Anthropic researcher Jacob Coxon publicly warned about the possibility of catastrophic AI outcomes, while former Google DeepMind researcher Bilal Chughtai made related warnings. Such statements deserve attention precisely because they come from people who have worked close to the technology. But warnings are not evidence of inevitability. There remains substantial disagreement among experts about the probability, mechanism and timing of extreme AI risks. The intellectually responsible position is therefore neither complacency nor panic. It is disciplined uncertainty.

Gilgamesh would recognise the danger of confusing power with mastery. Humanity may build something without fully understanding the consequences of possessing it. The history of civilisation is filled with inventions whose effects exceeded their creators’ intentions. The lesson is not to stop creating. It is to develop the wisdom to place limits around what we create.

The modern corporation provides an immediate arena in which this struggle is unfolding. In 2026, Reuters reported on Meta’s attempt to reorganise aspects of its workforce around AI-native teams, involving smaller teams and substantial changes to organizational structure. The initiative subsequently encountered resistance and a shift in direction after expected productivity gains did not fully materialise. Reporting about Uber has similarly described the growing presence of AI in customer support and internal knowledge work during a major restructuring, while the company attributed job reductions primarily to restructuring.

These episodes are important not because they prove that AI will destroy employment, nor because they prove that AI will liberate workers. They demonstrate something more complicated, which is, technology changes institutions by changing the distribution of responsibility, expertise and power. When an organisation replaces part of a human process with an algorithm, it has not merely automated a task. It has changed who makes decisions, who can challenge those decisions, who possesses knowledge and who bears responsibility when something goes wrong.

Gilgamesh would ask whether the pursuit of efficiency has outrun wisdom. Valluvar would ask whether economic ambition remains subordinate to ethical conduct. Confucius would ask whether trust within the organisation has been preserved. Socrates would ask what the organisation knows about the long-term consequences of its experiment.

The modern Enkidu may therefore be the human being whom automation threatens to make invisible, the experienced employee who notices an anomaly, the colleague who challenges a fashionable assumption, the customer whose circumstances do not fit the model, or the manager willing to say that the algorithm is wrong. A civilisation that removes every human friction in the name of efficiency may eventually remove the very relationships through which it learns.

Rama introduces a different question. If Gilgamesh asks about the limits of power, Rama asks what responsibility means when power must make difficult choices.

Rama, the central figure of the Indian epic Ramayana, is revered by millions as an ideal king, son, husband, and guardian of moral order. Traditionally regarded as an incarnation of Vishnu, the preserver in Hindu thought, Rama’s enduring significance extends beyond theology into the realm of ethics and leadership.

Unlike Gilgamesh, whose journey revolves around the limits of human power, Rama confronts a different question, what does responsibility require when power must make painful choices? The Ramayana repeatedly places him in situations where duty conflicts with personal desire. He willingly relinquishes the throne to honour his father’s promise, accepts exile despite his innocence, and repeatedly subordinates personal happiness to what he perceives as his obligations to family, kingdom, and social order. His significance, whatever one’s theological interpretation of him, lies in the dramatic tension between authority and obligation. Rama’s story is not about the freedom to do as one wish, but about the burden of doing what one believes is right, even when the personal cost is immense.

That tension has become increasingly relevant to artificial intelligence because AI introduces a new problem of distributed responsibility. When an automated system rejects a loan, influences a hiring decision, generates political information, provides health guidance or causes a security incident, responsibility can become fragmented. The developer blames the user. The user blames the model. The organisation blames the data. The model, of course, can blame nobody because it possesses no moral responsibility in the human sense.

Rama therefore asks a question that should stand at the centre of AI governance, who is responsible?

The question becomes particularly serious in politics. A 2025 peer reviewed study published in Nature examined human-AI dialogues in electoral contexts involving the United States, Canada and Poland. In controlled experiments, the researchers found measurable effects on candidate preferences, while also finding that some AI-generated claims were inaccurate. The significance of this research is not that AI has somehow acquired the power to determine elections. It has not established that. Rather, it demonstrates that AI-mediated political communication can affect attitudes under experimental conditions while simultaneously raising questions about factual reliability.

This creates a new problem for democratic societies. Political communication has always involved persuasion. Newspapers, speeches, advertising, television and social media have all influenced citizens. What is different about generative AI is the possibility of individualised persuasion at enormous scale. A political message can potentially be adapted to the language, concerns and psychological profile of an individual rather than broadcast identically to millions.

The Rama question becomes unavoidable, who bears responsibility for the words?

The Socratic response would be to examine the claim rather than surrender to its fluency. An articulate answer is not necessarily a true answer. A persuasive explanation is not necessarily an honest one. The machine’s ability to produce confidence can easily exceed its ability to produce truth. Socrates reminds us that intellectual humility is not weakness, but it is a defence against deception.

Confucius adds another dimension. Political society depends upon trust. Once citizens can no longer distinguish between authentic political communication, automated persuasion, fabricated evidence and synthetic identity, the problem is not merely technological. It becomes institutional. Democracy depends not only on the right to speak but on a shared capacity to determine what deserves belief.

Valluvar similarly treats speech as an ethical act. Words can heal or destroy. Knowledge can illuminate or manipulate. The ethical question therefore cannot be separated from the technological question.

Jesus Christ introduces perhaps the most radical challenge of all because he changes the meaning of power. Jesus of Nazareth, commonly known as Jesus Christ, was a first-century Jewish teacher and religious leader whose life and teachings gave rise to Christianity, one of the world’s largest religious traditions. Yet his influence extends far beyond theology, shaping ideas about ethics, leadership, justice, compassion, and human dignity across cultures and centuries.

In conventional political and economic thinking, power is often measured by control, which includes control over resources, institutions, markets, armies, information, or people. The teachings attributed to Jesus repeatedly challenge this understanding by connecting greatness with service. Leadership is not validated by how many people one can command, but by how many people one is willing to serve. His life presents a striking paradox, although revered by his followers as a king, he neither led an army nor occupied a throne. Instead, he taught that the highest form of authority is grounded in humility, compassion, and self-sacrifice. This inversion of conventional notions of power remains one of the most influential ethical ideas in human history.

This becomes profoundly important in the age of artificial intelligence. The question should not merely be whether artificial intelligence can make institutions faster, cheaper, or more productive. The deeper question is, for whom? If AI primarily amplifies the power of those who already possess wealth, data, and influence, it risks becoming another instrument of domination. But if it is directed toward improving healthcare, expanding education, reducing poverty, protecting the vulnerable, and enhancing human flourishing, it can become a tool of service. The challenge posed by Jesus’s teachings is therefore as relevant today as it was two thousand years ago, where technological capability alone is not a measure of progress. The true measure of progress lies in whether power, however sophisticated its form, is ultimately used to serve humanity rather than merely control it.

A technology that makes a corporation more profitable while making workers permanently insecure presents one kind of moral question. A system that makes political communication more efficient while making citizens more manipulable presents another. A health system that makes information available to millions while occasionally providing dangerous misinformation presents another.

The World Health Organization’s S.A.R.A.H. [1]initiative illustrates this tension. S.A.R.A.H. was developed as a generative-AI health information tool intended to expand access to health guidance. Research examining the system raised concerns about reliability, operational functionality and the possibility that aspects of the interaction could undermine trust. Again, this does not mean that AI has no place in health development. It means that accessibility cannot be treated as the same thing as care.

Jesus would ask whether the person seeking help remains visible.

That is a more difficult question than it first appears. An algorithm sees patterns. A human being experiences suffering. An algorithm can classify a symptom. A person can fear death. An algorithm can provide information. A person can need reassurance, dignity and human presence. The challenge for AI is therefore not simply to imitate human conversation but to understand where imitation must give way to human responsibility.

Valluvar’s emphasis on compassion becomes relevant here. Knowledge without compassion can become cold administration. Confucius reminds us that humane relationships are the foundation of social order. Socrates asks whether we have confused information with wisdom.

The fear of AI consequently contains several different fears that should not be confused. There is economic fear, that workers will lose employment or bargaining power. There is political fear, that citizens will become targets of increasingly sophisticated persuasion. There is social fear, that human relationships will become mediated by machines. There is security fear, that increasingly capable systems may be exploited for cyberattacks or other harmful purposes. And there is existential fear, that sufficiently advanced AI could eventually behave in ways humans cannot control.

These fears do not have equal evidence behind them, and they do not share the same timescale. Some are already visible in cases. Others remain hypothetical. Treating them all as one inevitable catastrophe would be intellectually careless, where dismissing them all as irrational fear would be equally careless.

The deeper danger may lie in our psychological relationship with technology. Humanity has repeatedly mistaken capability for wisdom. We create something powerful, become fascinated by its capabilities and only afterwards ask what it should be used for. Artificial intelligence is forcing that moral sequence into reverse. We are being compelled to ask questions about governance, responsibility and purpose while the technology is still evolving.

This is where the three figures form a philosophical triangle.

Gilgamesh asks, can we control what we create?

Rama asks, who bears the duty when the system fails?

Jesus asks, what kind of power are we becoming?

Valluvar asks whether knowledge is governed by virtue. Confucius asks whether trust survives. Socrates asks whether we have examined what we think we know.

These questions can become a practical philosophy of AI. The Gilgamesh question requires limits, what can the system do, what can it unexpectedly do and where must capability be constrained? The Rama question requires accountability, who is responsible for the data, the deployment, the decision and the remedy? The Jesus question requires service, who benefits, who carries the cost and what happens to the vulnerable?

The three classical traditions deepen the framework. Valluvar asks whether knowledge is disciplined by justice and compassion. Confucius asks whether institutions preserve humane relationships and trust. Socrates asks what evidence we possess and what remains uncertain.

Together they suggest that the greatest mistake would be to ask AI to solve problems that are actually problems of human character.

No algorithm can determine what humanity ought to value. It can optimise a target, but it cannot by itself justify the target. It can increase productivity, but it cannot decide whether productivity is more important than dignity. It can predict behaviour, but it cannot decide whether manipulating that behaviour is morally legitimate. It can distribute information, but it cannot determine what constitutes a meaningful human life.

This is why the universal hero of the AI age cannot be a machine.

Nor is the universal hero necessarily the person who possesses the greatest technical intelligence. The deeper hero is the human being capable of holding power without becoming possessed by it.

Gilgamesh teaches humility before mortality and limits. Rama teaches responsibility when duty becomes difficult. Jesus teaches service rather than domination. Valluvar teaches that virtue must govern knowledge and power. Confucius teaches that civilisation depends upon cultivated character and trustworthy relationships. Socrates teaches that questioning is a form of moral courage.

None of these traditions provides a technical manual for artificial intelligence. That is precisely why they remain valuable. Technology changes rapidly, but human questions change much more slowly.

We are still asking what Gilgamesh asked, how much power is enough?

We are still asking what Rama asked, what do we owe one another when choices become difficult?

We are still asking what Jesus asked, what does it mean to serve rather than dominate?

And we are still asking what Socrates asked, what do we actually know?

Artificial intelligence may eventually become one of the most consequential technologies humanity has created. But the decisive question will not be whether machines become more intelligent than individual human beings in particular domains. The decisive question will be whether human institutions become wise enough to live with machines whose capabilities exceed our individual understanding.

The future will not be determined by technology alone. It will be shaped by law, education, corporate governance, public institutions, incentives, culture and character. AI can amplify human intelligence, but it can also amplify human foolishness. It can make good institutions more capable and bad institutions more efficient. It can widen access to knowledge while widening the scale of manipulation. It can reduce suffering while creating new forms of dependence.

The challenge is therefore not to choose between fear and faith in AI. It is to cultivate a third possibility which is responsibility.

Gilgamesh reminds us that every power has a limit. Rama reminds us that every power creates a duty. Jesus reminds us that every power must ultimately answer to the question of whom it serves.

Perhaps that is the deeper meaning of the universal hero. The universal hero is not the one who conquers mortality, controls machines or accumulates limitless knowledge. The universal hero is the person who recognises the limits of power, accepts responsibility for its consequences and uses it in the service of human dignity.

Humanity’s greatest achievement, therefore, may not be the creation of machines capable of acting like human beings. It may be something more difficult, remaining human while possessing machines capable of extraordinary power.

[1]  Smart AI Resource Assistant for Health

Inspired by:

Epic of Gilgamesh by Andrew George, Penguin.

Valmiki Ramayana by Rajendra Tandon, Rupa Publication.

Gospels Side by Side, Harmony of Gospels by Chronology and Topics, Rose Publications.

Thirukkural by J Narayanasamy, Sura Publication.

The Analects of Confucius, RT Ames & H Rosemont Jr., Ballantine Book.

The Last Days of Socrates, C Rowe, Penguin.

Reuters, 19 September 2026, “Ten days that changed the course of AI.”

Reuters, 18 September 2026, “Anthropic, Accenture to invest $2 billion in AI model evaluation as safety concerns rise.”

Reuters, 15 September 2026, Reporting on former Google DeepMind researcher Bilal Chughtai and AI-risk warnings.

Associated Press, September 2026, Reporting on renewed debate over AI risks to humanity.

Reuters, 26 August 2026, Reporting on Meta’s 2026 AI-centered organizational transformation.

Nature, 2025, “Persuading voters using human–artificial intelligence dialogues.”

Brennan Center for Justice, 11 August 2026, “Does AI Fight or Fuel Election Disinformation?”

World Health Organization, S.A.R.A.H. generative-AI health initiative; related peer-reviewed research in Health Policy and Technology (2025).

Anthropic, 30 July 2026, “Investigating three real-world incidents in our cybersecurity evaluations.”

Anthropic, 9 September 2026, “An alignment assessment of recent cybersecurity incidents.

Ravi Varmman explores leadership, culture, and self-inquiry through a philosophical lens, weaving management insight with human experience to illuminate resilience, ethical living, and reflective growth in an ever shifting world today.

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Essay

Peeking at Beijing: Fringe-dwellers and Getting Centred

How can anybody comprehend Beijing, one of the largest and most ancient cities on Earth? Its origins date back three millennia, but Keith Lyons tries to get a sense of the real Beijing in just full three days.

Day Three*

After a series of false starts on the previous day, when I’d thought I would be ticking off Beijing’s main iconic sights, for my third and final day in the city I took a different approach. Instead of heading into the heart of the capital, I sought out enclaves that were more on the periphery of the megacity, both literally and figuratively. 

I’d been reading the accounts of Colin Thubron’s visits to China, including his 1987 book Behind the Wall which started in Beijing. Feeling displaced in the impersonal capital, his impression of Beijing was more of a building site than a city. “I tramped its streets in disorientation, looking for a core which was not there.” He found Tiananmen Square arid and couldn’t wait to get out of the city. “The fission of solitary travel — travel in a boyish euphoria of self-sufficiency — tingles in my stomach as I march across Beijing’s railway station,” he writes as he sets off on his travels around the Middle Kingdom as it emerged from decades of Mao and Cultural Revolution oppression.

Looking back on the previous day’s ‘failures’, I tried to reframe the disappointing experiences as learning, rather than ruminating on the rejection I felt after not getting inside the Forbidden City. 

One turning point in my journey was coming across a quote from Robin Sharma while thumbing through a bilingual personal growth book that sat among the artsy and anime library at my new accommodation, the hipster co-working space and ‘serviced apartment boutique hotel, ’ Stey 798. Initially when I saw the pull quote in English and Mandarin, I thought to myself, “What a douchebag; it’s fine for the business guru to say, having made millions spouting his stuff to the likes of Microsoft, IBM, General Motors and FedEx.” But then I reflected on the words and realised the truth in them: “There are no mistakes in life, only lessons. There is no such thing as a negative experience, only opportunities to grow, learn and advance along the road of self-mastery.”

I wasn’t exactly on the road to self-mastery when I found myself lost, tired, bothered and despondent on an unnamed minor road on the outskirts of Beijing. However, I realised that some of my preconceptions had been limiting. 

For example, the fixed idea that because Beijing was big and busy that it would be dangerous to hire a bike and cycle around. There were rows and rows of identical-looking bicycles for hire at every street corner, wide separate cycle lanes, and lots of visitors navigating successfully around Beijing by bike. If I’d been on a bike the previous day, I could have cycled right through Tiananmen Square rather than circle wide around the massive open space (though security personnel will still make sure you don’t stop to take photos at the best spots). 

So, note to self (and to others), try exploring Beijing on bike rather than just using the subway, taxis, or buses. To make bike hire possible, get a Chinese SIM card, install Mobike, and set up payments via WeChat and Alipay, so you can use the lockless sharing bikes provided by Meituan (yellow bikes), Didi Bike (green) and Hello Bike (blue) simply by scanning QR codes, or unlocking bikes with Bluetooth. 

I’ve since learnt some bike hire operators can loan high-quality bikes, with English-speaking staff who deliver bikes to your hotel. So even without a smartphone connected with a local SIM and data, you could arrange to discover the city formerly known as Peking by bike.

Beijing was once capital of the ‘kingdom of bicycles’, with the uptake of bikes trebling in the 1980s across China, as the rationing was cut for locally made bikes such as the prestigious Flying Pigeon brand. Cycle lanes were first incorporated into main roads throughout much of Beijing when car ownership was limited to government officials, with more than 3/4 of Beijing’s road space taken by cyclists in 1988. According to one study, some busy intersections saw 20,000 bicycles an hour, and 8 out of 10 Beijing’s used a bike as their primary transport. 

While China is the leading exporter of bicycles, bikes dropped from 62% of vehicles on the road in the late 1980s Beijing to just 16% by 2010. However, in the last decade, there has been a boom in bike use, not so much by the proletariat but by middle-class Chinese with an environmental and health consciousness embracing a post-materialist sharing society. Bike schemes featuring special locks, non-deflating tyres, rust-resistant bodies and GPS tracking have proliferated across Beijing and in most cities and towns, though following the boom there was also a bust for some players unable to cope with aggressive competition practices copied from the Uber monopoly playbook. 

In tandem with the return of the bike have been some other initiatives to address the problem Beijing was once synonymous with: air pollution. Much has been made of just how bad air pollution is in China, with 16 of the 20 worst air quality cities up to recently located in China. For the nation’s capital, vehicle emissions and burning coal to produce electricity have been the main causes of smog, but a wide range of measures have seen air pollution in Beijing decline by 50%. The air pollution in Beijing is still three times as bad as that in the US’s most polluted city Los Angeles, and some daily measures still exceed the World Health Organisation’s guidelines, but the initiatives which include better urban planning, switching away from coal, extensive public transport, and Low Emission Zones where only e-vehicles are allowed seem to be working. 

As an aside, a recent comparison of air pollution readings found Delhi was five times as polluted as Beijing, though the sources, composition and frequency of air pollutants are different for the two cities, with Delhi’s woes from biomass burning, road dust and the burning of agricultural waste. Delhi has been judged the world’s most polluted capital for four years in a row, according to IQAir. 

There’s another thing too. Much has been made about how polluted the air is in Beijing, but on the three full days I visited, only one day seemed to be overly hazy with smoggy, dirty air. Admittedly, particles in the air don’t have to be visible to be harmful, as the world is learning with more research into fine particles, but from a check of several air monitoring sites, including the US Embassy’s real-time monitoring which started in 2008, the readings were not too high. Probably no worse than smoking half a packet of cigarettes. Maybe that’s why many people in China wear face masks, not just because of illness or to stop the spread of germs. 

So next time — if there is one — I will definitely brave it on a bike. But that’s for next time. 

If Colin Thubron’s stomach was tingling with excitement in anticipation of travel, my stomach that morning was rumbling with anticipation of food to enable me to experience different parts of Beijing. Eating local is one of the best ways to experience a new place. 

I retraced my steps to the window-in-the-wall vendor I’d got a snack from the previous night, who made one of the specialties of Beijing, a thin savoury crisp-friend crepe stuffed with a selection of fillings. The man recognised me from the previous day, and we went through the process of assembling the ingredients to my liking to go on and in the pancake, which is eventually folded and wrapped like an American breakfast burrito. Unlike other jianbing I’d seen being made by small eateries, roaming food carts, or on the back of tricycles, my man’s crepes were made with buckwheat rather than wheat or mung bean flour, giving them a speckled purple appearance which I said to myself was like choosing a healthy option at McDonalds. 

To keep things fresh, jianbing are always made-to-order and cooked under the watchful attention of the mouth-drawling customer. Once the batter has formed small bubbles on the large round hotplate, a series of interventions are enacted, from cracking eggs over the pancake, to flipping it with long chopsticks. With brushes, the chef would smear on spicy and sweet fermented bean pastes (like miso), hoisin and chilli sauces, sprinkle on chopped coriander leaf, scallions and tangy pickled vegetables, and then add crunchy crispy-friend wonton dough strips and lettuce before cutting it in half and folding it into a rectangle. 

The pancake is Beijing’s favourite breakfast, but the staple food is little known outside China compared to steamed buns, dumplings and Yum cha dim sum. 

Also not well known outside China is the fact that Beijing has a sizeable Muslim population. At least a quarter of a million people who identify as Muslim reside in the capital, with a Muslim presence in the city dating back to the 8th century. As you may know from following the news, China has some issues in its north-western province of Xinjiang where Turkic-speaking Uyghur Muslims account for 12 million of its inhabitants, along with some ethnic Kazakhs. Less well-known and visible are the Hui Muslims, classified as an ethnic group and religious affiliation, who are found all across China. The Huis have adapted to the dominant Han Chinese culture, while maintaining their beliefs and customs.  

There’s one feature of Muslim life that is at odds with Chinese living, and that’s the eating of pork. Pork is China’s favourite and default meat, accounting for up to 70% of all meat eaten. With Muslims not eating pork, deemed unclean, impure and forbidden, instead the preferred Islamic meat is beef, with lamb/goat also featuring. This food divide meant that Muslims often lived together in neighbourhoods with not only a mosque, but also Muslim food processing and services. Across China, Muslim beef noodle restaurants are ubiquitous, and considered cheap and cheerful as well as clean, a godsend in a land of food hygiene concerns and stomach upsets.

In Beijing Niujie and Madian are the two main Muslim enclaves, though the latter in the north has declined. Niujie, south of the centre, even has its nearby subway station, and while there is still a mosque (with Chinese-style architectural characteristics) the main attraction for most visitors is the distinctly Muslim food available, with snacks and delicacies on offer. 

Of the quarter of a million Muslims who officially reside in Beijing, perhaps half live in the neighbourhood of Niujie. There are halal supermarkets, butchers selling mutton and beef, a Hui hospital and a kindergarten. 

For a block, on both sides of the wide street, are stalls and restaurants, and queues. The smoke from sizzling charcoal grills serving fatty lamb skewer kebabs and the aromatic cumin-scented air probably push Niujie’s air pollution readings beyond acceptable World Health Organisation levels, but no one is complaining. Uyghur vendors, wearing round white hats, call out over the grill to whip up even more business, or shout out to younger men to fetch more of the freshly-baked sesame-studded flatbreads that are stacked high beside tandoor ovens, like round naan, but with a thick edge, like a deep dish Pizza Hut crust.

Steam rises from the large bowls of beef noodle soups slurped by families sitting on low stools around a square table, and visitors line up to order from a selection of fruit pastries. The largest amount of tripe you may ever see is cooked in a huge pot, while a rich cake made with dried fruit, nuts, seeds and sugar is sold by weight. 

One of the quests for the self-labelled traveller, as opposed to the unaware tourist, is to be less an outsider and a consumer of tourism products. But underlying all this is the enigma of travel. That we go to experience things that are different from back home. And occasionally we wish to be less visible as an outsider, and more like an insider. 

I think you can do this to a certain degree, depending on where you are and the acceptance of diversity of that place. But for me, as a visitor of European heritage, to the reasonably homogeneous and definitely differentness of China, I stand out. Not just because of my height at 6 feet. Or that my hair isn’t the standard black. 

So what I seek is more of an authentic experience. Which for me often involves shopping local, eating local, random exploration of neighbourhoods rather than ticking off sights, preferring places without tickets or queues. 

It is travel with some risks, not mentioned in the insurance fine print. It is travel which is self-deprecating, acutely aware of my ‘otherness’ and awkwardness, and of how I might connect with others. Some of that is transactional. I buy fruit from an old lady at a local market. I hop on a bus. I go to a place, but it is not the place recommended by the receptionist or concierge.

In Niujie, I am both an outsider and the ‘other’. Yet I have more empathy for and connection with the Muslim street vendors than I do with the Han Chinese who have come that afternoon to eat delicious food that is different to their normal diet. 

After rubbing shoulders with fellow diners at a cramped eatery in Niujie, having finally located the area that doesn’t feature in most Beijing guidebooks, I still had one mission to complete. 

Photo provided by Keith Lyons

So, as you are probably aware, Beijing hosted the Olympics back in 2008, with much fanfare and pomp. It was China showing off to the world just how modern and developed it was. It awed us not just with its impressive pageantry but also its buildings and facilities, many created just for the International sporting event. The Olympics provided the impetus for numerous infrastructure projects, particularly transport networks which were state-of-the-art. 

Some facilities remain, and the Bird’s Nest is still an attraction in itself, despite its lack of use following the 16 years. You probably remember the Water Cube, the swimming pool. 

Bird’s Nest: Photo provided by Keith Lyons

Often when I travel, I check to see if there are swimming pools near my accommodation, or even inside my hotel (if someone else is picking up the tab). So when I found out that Water Cube is open for casual swimming, I set my sights on swimming a lap or two in the famous pool. 

It turns out the pool for public use isn’t the actual one for Olympic races — that’s reserved for competition — but the training pool where swimmers warmed up and down has been open to anyone for more than a decade. But there’s a catch. 

First, you have to know that you can swim there. And there’s another level of safeguard. Because the pool is several metres deep, and there’s the danger of non-swimmers drowning, the pool is partitioned into two halves. The accessible half has a raised floor so it is only around a metre deep. You can stand up in it. Kids can stand up. 

But the other half, where the depth darkens the water to deep blue, is strictly controlled entry. You need a swipe card to access it. And to get that, as an American working in Beijing described to me, involved a medical test as well as completing various swimming feats, which included swimming two lengths without pausing. 

Without the time in the city to complete the rigorous entry requirements, I had to contend myself with the learner’s side, where parents walked alongside their children like chaperons, adults swam on both sides of the lanes, and there were frequent close calls or collisions. 

Inside the Water Cube: Photo provided by Keith Lyons

I’m a reasonably tolerant person, and having lived in China for more than a dozen years had got used to behaviours I initially found, to my mind and upbringing, a little disgusting. But when I swam my first length, only having to stop a couple of times to negotiate around erratic swimmers, the first sound I heard was from a fellow swimmer rising up from his lane to loudly clear his throat and spit onto the floor edge. I made a mental note not to rest my goggles up there.

While I had the passive-aggressive stance towards those spitters, during rests at the end of the lane other swimmers struck up conversations. A middle-aged women confided how she had lessons to swim in her 40s, and now tried to swim at the Water Cube a few days each week, even if she could not go a few metres without gasping for air. “Can you give me any tips to improve my swimming,” she asked as she returned to my end. I replied in Chinese the word my blind masseur used to give me when he hit a sore point on my feet. “Fang song” — relax. It was probably the worst word to say, like shouting ‘keep calm’ out repeatedly when something has gone disastrously wrong. 

I probably should have taken on board my own words, as I swam into a father shepherding his daughter along. He was blocking my way. I saw him do the same to others. Deliberately blocking the way of oncoming swimmers. You are the symbol of modern China, I thought. Selfish, entitled, arrogant. Because I am a man of peace and goodwill to all, when he next blocked my way, I just carried on swimming, exaggerating my kicking to churn up the water and splash his rotund belly and smug grin. 

I switched to another lane, and after a few more lengths, as I waited for a slow swimmer to get a head start, a boy of 12 years decided to strike up a conversation with me. “My mother says I should practice my English, so that’s why I like to come here,” he said, pointing up to the viewing window where a dragon mom waved and then proceeded to turn her phone camera towards us. After exchanging the usual questions about himself and me, he then abruptly turned the conversation around to China and the world. “China is the biggest country in the world. We are the leader.” 

Unable to find the right words to express himself, he asked another swimmer, a man who had just moved to Beijing from the north, to articulate. 

I wanted to ask him if China was such a great country, why did so many of its people want to escape to a better life in the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. But conscious that swimming at the Water Cube gives just two hours in the facility I escaped myself and tried to complete a length unimpeded or uninterrupted. 

When I got back, the boy, who was rather overweight, was still there, waiting with another claim about China’s might. 

Maybe I’m being nostalgic, about the good old days, but in the 1990s and 2000s, being a foreigner in China meant automatic adulation and attention from Chinese. Foreigners were feted and admired regardless of their behaviour and personality. 

Now, in the mid-2020s, things have changed. They started changing a decade ago, when China realised that foreigners were not so great after all. When stories from the government claimed that most of the foreigners were economic spies. When Chinese TV had footage of young Americans drunk and predatory on the Shanghai subway. When my friends said how they’d heard that many foreigners teaching in China were losers in their own country. The tide had turned. The golden days were over. China has regained its swagger. The sleeping giant was waking up. The dragon was turning. And I was getting tired. 

Before my number got called and I got requested to leave the pool, I got out, and used my token in the shower, wishing I’d brought my flip-flops to protect my feet from contact with the floor. 

Not just being in the water, but being underground, it always takes a little to adjust to being back above ground and at maximum gravity, weightless. One of the things I like about swimming is that afterwards, some of that fluidity, ease of movement, body perception and gentle feeling remains, like a reminder of how you could be in the world. My senses feel renewed, my mind a little lighter, my awareness more centred. 

Near the Bird’s Nest, they were having a skateboard class, with over 50 participants, many of them young women. And as I strode along the wide boulevard, groups of newly initiated skaters wove in and out of the family groups and sightseers, a sign to the world of new ways of being, new freedoms, and new leisure. Was this a victory for American culture? Or was China taking this recreation and adding Chinese characteristics to it? 

My last swim was both a relaxation exercise at the end of the day, and a future — proofing myself for a long-haul flight home. 

The faint linger of chlorine on the webbing of my hands and fingers. The sensation of lying face down and being held by the water. The realisation that the more I know the less I understand about China. These are the things I took with me as I sat in the aisle seat, stretched out my legs, and reminded myself, that I was 30,000 feet above the earth, going from the ancient capital to one of the youngest nations on earth (New Zealand). Much is lost, falling away, lost in time, the memories not so much fade as slip away imperceptibly. I scroll through the photos on my iPhone. So long Beijing.

*Read the Day two of Keith Lyon’s China trip by clicking here

Read the Day One of Keith Lyon’s China trip by clicking here

Keith Lyons (keithlyons.net) is an award-winning writer and creative writing mentor originally from New Zealand who has spent a quarter of his existence living and working in Asia including southwest China, Myanmar and Bali. His Venn diagram of happiness features the aroma of freshly-roasted coffee, the negative ions of the natural world including moving water, and connecting with others in meaningful ways. A Contributing Editor on Borderless journal’sEditorial Board, his work has appeared in Borderless since its early days, and his writing featured in the anthology Monalisa No Longer Smiles.

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PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL. 

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Click here to access Monalisa No Longer Smiles on Kindle Amazon International

Categories
Review

Fixing a Fractured World

Book Review by Bhaskar Parichha

Title: Permacrisis: A Plan to Fix a Fractured World 

Authors: Gordon Brown, Mohamed El-Erian, Michael Spence, Reid Lidow 

Publisher: Simon & Schuster UK

A nation or region’s success depends on three things: growth, economic management, and governance. The three dimensions are interconnected and affect each other. Growing an economy is a fundamental part of economic development. Factors like productivity, technological innovation, and sector expansion are all part of it. Infrastructure, education, and research and development are key to sustainable growth. Strong growth can create jobs, raise incomes, and improve living standards.

Governments and institutions take policies and decisions to maintain the economy’s stability and effectiveness. Setting fiscal policies, regulating financial markets, and overseeing trade and investment are tasks involved. The goal of effective economic management is to promote stability, increase competitiveness, and grow the economy. For macroeconomic stability and progress, it takes inflation, budget deficits, and exchange rates into account.

Countries and regions are governed by rules and structures. It includes political institutions, legal systems, and decision-making processes. By promoting transparency, accountability, and participation, sound governance ensures power is exercised fairly and justly. Decisions are made keeping in view society’s most beneficial interests, and citizens’ rights are protected. Maintaining stability, attracting investment, and promoting economic development requires strong governance.

Growth, economic management, and governance reinforce each other. Sustainable economic growth requires effective economic management, ensuring resources are allocated efficiently and policies support it. Effective governance promotes stability and attracts foreign investment through efficient economic management. A well-functioning governance system ensures that economic growth benefits are distributed equitably. After the recent pandemic, economists are worried about a prolonged crisis. Could we be experiencing a permacrisis? It is likely that the current state of the world will lead to anxiety, and that is what this book tells us in splendid detail.

Permacrisis: A Plan to Fix a Fractured World by Gordon Brown, Reid Low, Mohamed A. El-Erian and Michael Spence looks at the economic downturn the world is struggling through right now.

After holding the office of Chancellor of the Exchequer for over a decade, Gordon Brown became Prime Minister. During the 2009 London G20 summit, he mobilised global leaders to walk the world back from the brink of a second Great Depression. He is currently serving as the UN Special Envoy for Global Education, spearheading efforts to ensure quality, inclusive education for all children. He is also a Global Health Finance Ambassador for the World Health Organization. Brown holds a PhD in history from Edinburgh University.

Mohamed A. El-Erian is President of Queens’ College Cambridge. As Chief Economic Advisor at Allianz, he formerly served as Co-Chief Investment Officer and Chief Executive of PIMCO. Besides columnising for Bloomberg Opinion, he’s also a Financial Times contributor. He is a Senior Global Fellow at the Lauder Institute and Rene M. Kern Practice Professor at Wharton School. Before joining Harvard Management Company, he was a managing director at Solomon Smith Barney/Citigroup. His books When Markets Collide and The Only Game in Town were New York Times bestsellers.


Michael Spence is Emeritus Professor of Management at Stanford University. He is a Senior Fellow at Stanford’s Hoover Institution, and a Council on Foreign Relations Distinguished Visiting Fellow. He is an adjunct professor at Bocconi University and an honorary fellow at Magdalen College. He authored The Future of Economic Growth in a Multispeed World. He was Dean of the Stanford Business School from 1990 to 1999, and Dean of the Harvard Faculty of Arts and Sciences from 1984 to 1990. His awards include the John Kenneth Galbraith Prize for teaching excellence and the John Bates Clark Medal. He won the Nobel Prize in Economic Sciences for his work in information economics in 2001.

Reid Lidow served as Los Angeles Mayor’s Executive Officer. Reid worked on Gordon Brown’s campaigns before. During his undergraduate studies at USC, Reid double majored in International Relations and Political Science. He received a Gates Cambridge Scholarship and an MPhil in Development Studies from Queens’ College, Cambridge. 

As some of the most highly respected and experienced thinkers of our time, these friends found that their pandemic zooms increasingly focused on a cascade of crises: sputtering growth, surging inflation, poor policy responses, an escalating climate emergency, increasing inequality, a rise in nationalism, and a decline in international cooperation. They shared their fears and frustrations with each other. The more they talked, the more they realised that, despite past mistakes that set the world on this bumpy path, there is a better path to a brighter future. Their varied perspectives contributed to their pursuit of a common goal: attainable solutions to the world’s fractures. Those thoughts are reflected in this book.

According to the authors, our current permacrisis is a result of broken approaches to growth, economic management, and governance. Even though these approaches are flawed, they can be repaired. A provocative, inspiring plan to change the world is the need of the hour. The book illustrates how we can prevent crises and improve the future for the benefit of the many and the few. According to the book, problems that remain unresolved for a prolonged period of time will only worsen; this is what happens in a permacrisis, which is why we must act quickly.

This instructive book provides a sensible plan of reform that can be used to create a world that is fairer and more equitable.

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Bhaskar Parichha is a journalist and author of Unbiased, No Strings Attached: Writings on Odisha and Biju Patnaik – A Political Biography. He lives in Bhubaneswar and writes bilingually. Besides writing for newspapers, he also reviews books on various media platforms.

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PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

Click here to access the Borderless anthology, Monalisa No Longer Smiles

Click here to access Monalisa No Longer Smiles on Kindle Amazon International