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What the Stars Kept Secret

By  Subramaniam Cheemalapati

My grandfather never laughed loudly. He always let out a quiet giggle, mouth slightly open, his breath coming out in bursts. He was sincere in his smile and laughs. I remember that laugh more than almost anything else about him. More than his words, more than his stories, sometimes even more than his face. It was the laugh of a man who had made his peace with the world, who trusted it completely.

He trusted God the same way.

There was something else about him. Something nobody fully understood. Something he never explained. Not to my father, not to anyone in the family, and certainly not to me, a young schoolboy visiting from Jamshedpur every six months, more interested in his stories than in the reason he had left Mysore.

My grandfather had earlier worked in the Royal Court of the Wadiyars of Mysore. The Wadiyar court was one of the most cultured, refined establishments in all of India. A world of scholarship, music, art, and power. My grandfather moved in that world. He had a position there, proximity to something grand. And then, at some point in the early part of the last century, he left, quietly and completely.

He returned to Munganda, a small village in East Godavari, Andhra Pradesh, that appeared to exist slightly outside of time. He never went back. He bought a farm in the village. Grew rice. Settled into village life as though the court had never happened. As though Mysore were a dream he had quietly decided to stop having.

No one knows why he left.

He never said. He felt no need to explain. He had simply followed the wind, and the wind had brought him home. That was the part I could never name.

Every six months, I would travel from Jamshedpur to Munganda, crossing the distance between India’s two worlds – North and South. My grandfather would be waiting at the railway station. Within hours, we would ride together to the market, buying potatoes, onions, spinach, dal, and groceries, and then, go as always, to the Ganapati Temple nearby.

The temple was not magnificent. We would sit in a corner, hands folded, eyes closed, lips trembling quietly as we recited the shlokas[1]. I never understood them.

Around us, other devotees sat in the same silent trance. Couples, elders, young mothers. All of them somewhere between this world and another.

My grandfather prayed for everyone. Not just for us. Sarve Janah Sukhino Bhavantu. May all people be happy. That was his ask. Every day. Every week. Until the time he died.

A man who had prayed in the royal court now prayed in a modest village temple. He seemed more at peace here. More himself. As though the grandeur had been a detour. Simplicity was always the destination.

I did not fully understand it then. I was unfamiliar with temple rituals and prayers. I went along with him. I sat. And something impacted me — that I would only recognise much later.

At night, back in the village, he would tell me stories, Panchatantra, Vikram Betal[2], tales of clever monkeys and wiser kings.

Munganda had that quality of being a place where age-old stories felt recent. You could almost believe the sages had only just left. The dust on the path still seemed to carry their footprints. My grandfather sat in that world completely naturally. He belonged to it. For those visits every six months, so did I. The visits were truly memorable.

He had a way of talking about God. It was always matter-of-fact, almost cheerful, delivered with that gentle giggle. As though the divine were simply an old friend he knew well. “Gods have bigger eyes all around us,” he told me once, on one of those evenings. “We cannot see them. They can see all our actions, like an eye in the sky. Perhaps those stars are our Gods.”

The words stuck me deeply.

One night, while lying on the verandah on the floor mat, I woke up suddenly. There were no street lights, due to a power cut. I looked up at the sky full of stars. They were extraordinary, scattered across the vast expanse of the sky. I looked around, and the stars shone. I could feel my grandfather’s words. The stars looked down upon me.

I wonder sometimes whether he looked at those same stars and saw something he recognised from another life, whether the eye in the sky watched him in the Wadiyar Court. Perhaps he made his quiet decision to leave and return to this village, this farm, and this temple, and said nothing because nothing needed to be said. Because he already knew the reason. Time went by. My grandfather passed away. The village remained. The temple remained. The farm remained. The voice which had explained the stars to me was gone. His secret went with him, buried well beneath the Munganda farmlands, below a sky full of watching stars, within God’s domain.

Then the drifting began, slowly at first, almost without my noticing.

I drifted far from Munganda into cities, apartments, deadlines, airports, and a world of satellites and search engines. The questions my grandfather answered with a giggle and a glance at the sky seemed to require more complicated responses.

Somewhere along the way, I stopped looking up.

I moved between belief and uncertainty, between the temple and the rational mind, not always knowing which direction I was heading. Sometimes I didn’t care.  

Then one ordinary night, something happened.

It was two in the morning. Unable to sleep, I stood by a window and looked at the stars.

And suddenly, I felt watched. Not by a person. Not by anything I could name. Just a strange awareness that I was not alone beneath that sky. I wasn’t afraid. The way the sky spread across the horizon, it appeared very large, and I was too small.

Then there is this feeling of the unknown out there. In the darkness of the sky, I feel it sees you. It has always seen you. Like a satellite passing overhead, patient, all-encompassing, recording nothing, judging nothing, simply present.

“Like an eye in the sky.” My grandfather had said decades ago, pointing at stars.

I felt the words, standing in the modern world, thinking: this is what he meant. That was when I grasped what he really meant, without ever going in circles for years.

My grandfather’s secret wasn’t meant to be a secret at all. He had left the Royal court carrying a knowledge: that peace does not live in grand corridors.

What I found in my Munganda travels and time with my grandfather was that peace lives in smaller places: a village temple, folded hands, rice fields at dusk, stories told to grandchildren below a sky full of stars, relationships within the family.

He just didn’t say the reason. He knew his reasons.

My relationship with God has changed. I am no longer superstitious. I do not bargain with the divine. What I have instead is a trust that things will work out. Not magically. Not without effort or pain. If you are honest, if you have not harmed others, if you have moved through the world with some decency, the cycle turns in your favour. Paths are formed for your navigation. The destination appears closer. Life becomes what you expected.

I think of it now as wind. You cannot see wind. You cannot hold it or command it. But if you are willing to flow with it, it will carry you, and share your destination with you, as though it always knew where you were going.

My grandfather knew this. He left a royal court and carried the reason with him. He grew rice, told stories, pointed at the stars, and giggled gently, mouth wide open, completely sincere.

Perhaps the stars knew why he came back all along. They kept their silence.

They did not tell us.

They never told us.

[1] Hymn or religious chant

[2] Stories about a king (Vikram) and a demon(Betal) penned in the 11th-century by Somdev Bhatta

Subramaniam Cheemalapati is a writer based in Mysore. His work explores memory, family, faith, caregiving, and place. He is working on a memoir, a literary novel, and personal essays.

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Excerpt

Bhubaneswar@75 – Perspectives

Title: Bhubaneswar@75 – Perspectives

Editors: Bhaskar Parichha/Charudutta Panigrahi

Publisher: Pen In Books

INTRODUCTION

As we look forward to the next 25 years … 

April 13, 1948. It was on this day that the first Prime Minister of India Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru laid the Odisha capital city’s foundation stone. Since then, Bhubaneswar has remained a celebrated model of modern architecture and city planning with its prehistoric past as a temple city. Along with Jamshedpur and Chandigarh, Bhubaneswar is one of modern India’s first planned cities. 

While laying the foundation-stone, Nehru observed: ‘Bhubaneswar would not be a city of high-rise buildings for officers and rich men without relation to the common masses. It would be consistent with the idea of reducing differences between the rich and the poor. The New Capital would embody the beautiful art of Odisha, and it would be a place for beauty…so that life might become an adjunct to beauty.’

Bhubaneswar is a temple town with a series of ancient sandstone temples varying in size from the towering eleventh century Lingaraja Temple. It was a city of temples. Once upon a time, there were more than 7,000 temples in and around Bhubaneswar. Today, there are only a few. 

EXQUISITE ARCHITECTURE

From a religious standpoint, the Lingaraj temple is the most popular. Other temples include the 7th century Vaital temple, the impressive 10th century Mukteshwar temple, and the 11th century Raja Rani temple with its fine carvings. There are many other temples of exquisite architecture. 

Several Grade-I temples of national importance have been protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in Old Bhubaneswar, such as Ananta Basudeva, Mukteswara, Persurameswara, and Rajarani Temples, which are just a few examples. Bhubaneswar’s modern capital is shaped by Old Bhubaneswar’s ancient temples.

The state capital city planning began near the old temple town. The Master Plan for the upcoming city of Bhubaneswar was prepared by Dr Otto H Koenigsberger on the concept of neighbourhood unit planning. The original plan envisaged horizontal development rather than vertical growth for a population of 40,000 with administration as the primary function. Koenigsberger designed a linear pattern for the city, with administrative units on the main artery, and neighborhood units attached to them. Neighborhood units offer residents the most sophisticated amenities in a city. They were placed at short distances to give people easy access to schools, hospitals and other facilities.  

CENTRAL VISTA

Six units were developed. Unit-V served as the site for the administrative complex, while other units were planned according to neighborhoods. As part of the town center, there was a market building, a weekly market, a day-to-day market, and a bus station. There was a central vista with views of the Raj Bhawan. There was also a commercial zone along Janpath and Bapuji Nagar up to the railway station. Koenigsberger’s planning zone provided characteristic weather control and a salubrious climate throughout the year. This area — the heart of the city — maintains the lushest green cover in the city with open space and a well-organized transportation system.

A neighborhood unit required that each child live within a quarter of a mile or a third of a mile of their school. Housewives were required to live within a half mile of the civic center to shop there and have access to medical facilities within the town. Distances between a person’s home and place of employment could conveniently be covered by a bicycle or a cycle rickshaw. Koenigsberger suggested 7 different types of roads for 7 different groups of users and 7 different functions. Those are footpaths, parkways, cycle paths, minor housing streets, major housing streets, main roads and main arteries.

Bhubaneswar was planned to be the state capital, but it is primarily a city for government officials. Residential quarters were designed to meet the needs of officials from various income groups. Planning was made to meet the ideal urban family’s requirements. This was done by providing them with single-storey independent houses with a front yard and kitchen and garden space in the back yard. Government bungalows have extensive open spaces around them and abundant space between one house and another. Those with high incomes occupy bungalows near the main employment complex. 

Low income housing consists of mostly one and two bedrooms comprised of more than one unit broken into rows. Early in the planning process, residential quarters in different neighborhoods were mostly standardized. Small scale industries and manufacturing activities were added after 1980. Much of the original plan has changed in twenty years.

HERITAGE ZONE

Bhubaneswar has been declared a special heritage zone as Ekamra Kshetra, which consists of several significant structures. Various socio-cultural and religious heritages of Odisha are represented in the monuments, which represent different periods in Odisha’s history. In recent years, several of these significant elements have steadily lost their significance due to modern construction activities.

An integrated regional development plan has been prepared to meet the growing demand for services in the region. This plan has been declared as the Comprehensive Development Plan (CDP) of the Bhubaneswar Development Plan Area (BDPA). The BDPA comprises Bhubaneswar Municipal Corporation, Khurda Municipality, Jatani Municipality and adjoining 122 Mouzas. The Long Term Perspective Plan for Bhubaneswar-Cuttack Urban Complex (BCUC) provides a vision for the development of the whole region by 2030. Bhubaneswar-Cuttack Urban Complex being the hub of commercial, political, administrative and socio-cultural activities in Odisha, it has rich potential for development. 

A lot of resentment was felt — and it still exists — when Bhubaneswar replaced Cuttack as the capital on 19 August 1949, two years after India gained independence from Britain. In recent times, Bhubaneswar and Cuttack have been called the ‘twin cities of Odisha’ – one with a modern look and another with a millennium-old history. Bhubaneswar and Cuttack have become closer since the Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Bridge, also known as the Trisulia Bridge, opened on 19 July 2017. 

BIG FIVE

There are a few Tier-2 cities in the country that host the top five IT companies in the country. Bhubaneswar is one of them. These companies include Infosys, Wipro, Tata Consultancy Services, Tech Mahindra, and Mindtree. It is considered one of the three most attractive places in the world to do business, according to the World Bank. Bhubaneswar has been selected as one of the first twenty cities in India to be developed as a smart city. This is part of his flagship ‘Smart Cities Mission’ which seeks to develop 100 smart cities in India. 

Bhubaneswar was added to the World Heritage List (WHL) as part of the application process. The WHL requires that the site be of outstanding value, as well as having at least one of the ten selection criteria met. This is required for inclusion on this list. Bhubaneswar meets four of them. Over 100 cities have been designated World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

Nations that nominate heritage sites and cities to UNESCO, and submit data, maps, and photographs, are given heritage status by the organization. World Heritage Status is the highest honor and most prestigious title given to heritage monuments, sites, and cities in recognition of their universal value.

Bhubaneswar, one of the two Indian capitals planned after independence, alongside Chandigarh, is today one of the most prominent cities in Odisha. It has a culture as vibrant as the city itself. With a population of one and a half million, Bhubaneswar has become known as one of the most happening cities in Eastern India. India’s evolving urban landscape places the city among its upcoming metropolises.

This book contains twenty-seven essays written by learned scholars on different aspects of Bhubaneswar. From temples to town planning, from becoming India’s sports capital to urban living, from culture to literature, and from business to education, the book says it all. It represents everything that has happened since the foundation stone was laid. It is a throwback to what we have witnessed.

It is hoped that by the time Bhubaneswar celebrates its centennial twenty-five years from now, the city’s signature identity and impeccable heritage will have been preserved and passed on to future generations in a more intact form. 

Bhaskar Parichha

About the Book:

The capital of Odisha and a city that is still in the process of being shaped, Bhubaneswar is many things to many people. The Temple City, as it was once called, was home to thousands of temples at one time.

The foundation stone of ‘modern’ Bhubaneswar was laid in 1948 by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. It became the administrative capital of Odisha in the learly 1950s. Bhubaneswar was declared a ‘smart city’ under the urban initiative by the government of India in 2014.

Bhubaneswar, one of the two capitals planned after independence, is today a vibrant city in Odisha with an equally vibrant culture. With a population of one and a half million, Bhubaneswar has become known as one of the most happening cities in Eastern India. India’s evolving urban landscape places the city among its upcoming metropolises.

The book has 25 essays on different aspects of Bhubaneswar written by scholars of standing. From temples to town planning, from becoming India’s sports capital to urban living, from culture to literature, and from business to education, the book says it all. It is a compilation of all that has happened over the past 75 years.

A ‘portrait’ of the city is presented in the book.

About the Editors

Bhaskar Parichha (1957) is a senior journalist and author of five books Unbiased: Writings on India, No Strings Attached: Writings on Odisha, Madhubabau – The Global Indian, and BijuPatnaik – A Biography. He has edited an anthology of essays entitled Naveen @25 -Perspectives. He is a bilingual writer and lives in Bhubaneswar.

Charudutta Panigrahi (1968) is a social advocate and practicing intellectual. He has set upthink tanks in India and abroad. A TED Speaker and an author, he is a polymath whose work takes him everywhere. This is from the last mile in indigenous communities to the high table of global policy making. He lives between Gurgaon, Bhubaneswar, and Panjim with his family. His recent release, The Scent of Odisha, has been received well by readers all over and is acclaimed as an exceptional Odisha chronicle of current times. He is engaged in climate change work and has set up a global platform called Climatists in Berlin.

PLEASE NOTE: ARTICLES CAN ONLY BE REPRODUCED IN OTHER SITES WITH DUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO BORDERLESS JOURNAL

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