By Paul Mirabile
Vasiliki and Nico boarded the passenger steamer for Burgaz Island at Sirkeçi pier at Istanbul. As the steamer moved out slowly from the crowded port, Nico gazed at the dreamy silhouette of this storiedcity where for four days they had woven in and out of lanes and alleys, gardens and markets, prayed in the Greek churches.
They had left Hydra six days ago by boat and bus, arriving in Istanbul after a night spent in Thessaloniki. Now they were off to Vasiliki’s island of birth. He had never been back since his departure at the age of twelve, and the thought of returning excited him. “Look grandpa at the setting sun over Topkapı Palace,” shouted an elated Nico. And indeed Nico’s elation was not feigned.
The cypress trees and domes of the mosques and minarets were outlined against a sky alive with streaks of reddish flames whose reflections could be discerned in the unruffled waters of the Marmara Sea. The crenelated walls of Topkapı Palace undulated eerily in the ruddy, pastel twilight as did the silhouettes of the many domed mosques that embossed the mighty palace with a pinkish tinge. Nico stood hypnotized at the stern imagining himself as part of one of the yarns of A Thousand and One Nights. A sensation of estrangement, of magical transport had arrested his movements. Suddenly a flock of seagulls descended screaming into the wake of the steamer, snatched as many fish as possible and flew off towards Galata Tower, which they circled and circled until vanishing in the evening shadows beyond the hilly banks of the Bosphorus Strait, the yalıs[1], Dolmabahçe[2] and Berlerbeyi Palace.
“A fairytale city, Nico.” Vasiliki said, interrupting his grandson’s spellbound state.
“Yes, grandpa. It looks like one of the coloured pages of my A Thousand and One Nights.”
Vasiliki chuckled. “Perhaps it is, my boy.” And they both contemplated that marvellous city until it, too, disappeared under the orb of the sea …
They disembarked two hours later …
“Burgaz ,” sighed Vasiliki, stepping foot on to the soil of his birth. He took Nico’s hand and hurried him from the throngs of the port into the quiet of the main plaza where the statue of Saït Faïk greeted them. “There he is, Nico, one of the finest poets and short-story writers of the Turkish language.” Nico moved closer :
“He looks very thoughtful, grandpa. What do you think he’s thinking about?”
“That’s a good question. But for now we have to get a horse-drawn carriage to Zorba’s home before nightfall.”
For some unknown reason Nico’s thoughts roamed back to his Nefteli. “Do you think the Nefteli lay anchor at this island on her voyage to China, grandpa?” Vasiliki knitted his brows.
“I’m not so sure. She would have taken a more westerly route.” Nico nodded, unable, however, to imagine his beautiful Nefteli never having moored at this beautiful island with such a famous poet standing so thoughtful in the middle of the plaza. Whilst the boy ruminated these thoughts, Vasiliki hailed a horse-drawn carriage, and in broken Turkish directed the driver to take them to Soknar Sokak [3]located on the western side of the island.
“You speak good Turkish, grandpa,” Nico commented.
“My parents spoke it at home, but when we left Burgaz to settle in Greece, they chose to speak more Greek than Turkish. The Greeks never took a liking to us Greeks who lived in Turkey.”
“Why?”
“Oh, that’s a long and sad story. I’m too happy to be here on Burgaz to tell you now.” So Nico was left unsatisfied. “My brother’s friend’s name is Zorba,” Vasiliki continued. “He’s in the textile business in Istanbul. He comes to Greece often. His wife died two years ago and now lives alone in a big villa on a hillside overlooking the sea. He’s very wealthy and in his spare time writes poetry.”
“Like Saït Faïk?” Vasiliki puckered his lips.
“No one can write poetry like someone else, Nico. If that happens, it’s like imitating a poet’s poems and you shouldn’t do that. Anyway, you’ll soon meet him. And you’ll also meet my father’s friend Abi Din Bey, a Turkish Alevite who lives down on the beach. He knew Saït very well. He writes poetry, too. I remember one of his verses: ‘I wished to smell a rose./It feigned reluctance./No, it said, bring my scent …’ Oh, I forgot the rest.”
“But why did the rose not want to be smelt?” asked Nico curiously.
“I have no idea, my boy. It’s only poetry. Besides, I’m a fisherman, I haven’t had much instruction on those things.” And on that unscented note, Nico espied a flock of seagulls chasing the early evening cloudlets galloping far off towards the East.
They arrived. Vasiliki paid the driver and up they climbed a long flight of wooden stairs through a well-kept garden of intoxicating scents. Above them loomed a massive sun-bleached white, wooden pillared portico, above which rose three-balconed stories, surmounted by two towering turrets in the middle of which spiralled even higher a fretted gable. Nico stood awestruck as if he had come upon one of Zeus’s palaces. A minute later a huge, flabby-faced, moustachioed man burst through the front portico door to greet them in broken Greek.
“Welcome! Welcome! Come into my humble home, please,” Zorba gesticulated theatrically, dragging both guests into his home, which in the eyes of his two guests was far from humble …
Dragged I say through the lofty portico whose colonnade must have counted over twenty Doric-like pillars, then into a vestibule at the end of which a floating double staircase wound breezily above a bubbling marble fountain then on to a cambered, U-shaped landing bedecked with azaleas, wisteria and dwarfish palm plants. Hanging on the walls of the vestibule and the cambered landing were landscape paintings and several stately portraits. Zorba immediately escorted them into a brightly lit drawing-room whose frescoed ceiling teemed with Greek heroes and from which a shone a gigantic chandelier. Deep velvet-red draperies afforded a nineteenth century posh atmosphere, an atmosphere of opulent repose. They were seated on a plush, baize-covered ottoman. Refreshments were hurried into the room by a maid, set delicately on a superb pearl-inlaid coffee-table.
“Welcome to Burgaz, Vasiliki and Nico,” Zorba beamed, delicately seeping a large glass of mango juice. “Where will be your first visit if I may ask?” Vasiliki set his mango juice down, licking his lips.
“To Abi Din Bey’s beach home,” replied Vasiliki.
Zorba frowned. “Rather a shabby place his cabin on the beach,” he retorted gruffly.
“Perhaps, but I must see him. You know, he was a very good friend to my father.”
“Yes … yes, of course,” grumbled Zorba, ostensibly displeased at the mention of the beach comber. “Whatever ! You are my guests here and may stay as long as you please.” He looked at Nico affectionately: “What a wonderful adventure for your grandson. To relive his grandfather’s and father’s past …”
“And who knows, Zorba … perhaps his future …”
Zorba, a bit puzzled by that remark, smiled a gold-toothed smile, nevertheless. The smile seemed to set his well-fed, pasty face aquiver.
“Excellent, Vasiliki. But now we must dine.” Zorba ushered his guests into the tapestry-hung adjoining dining room where a long table had been set with all the delicacies that Burgaz Island could offer : sumptuous mezes[4]: stuffed vine leaves, eggplant caviar, marinated red peppers, homus[5], followed by lentil soup, fish and köfte[6]. This gargantuan meal terminated with strawberry sorbet and künefe[7].Two hours laterVasiliki and Nico sat back in their red upholstered chairs utterly exhausted.
Refusing any liquor, Zorba showed his guests their enormous room on the first floor whose bay-window overlooked a dark stretch of forest which gradually merged with the slow-moving lights of the steamers and cargoes on the Marmara Sea. Vasiliki and Nico, after unpacking, fell asleep as soon as their heads touched the pillows.
They awoke at nine o’clock, washed and rushed down the elegant, floating staircase for a quick breakfast. They ate alone, Zorba having breakfasted very early in order to meet customers in Istanbul, so said the maid. They set out for Abi Din Bey’s beach home, a half-hour’s walk down a winding path through the wooded hillside.
The sound and smell of the sea below, the laughing seagulls above thrilled Nico with an unequivocal joy. He felt drawn into an adventure. Once on the beach, they veered to the right and in two or three minutes stood at the Alevite’s welcoming gate, open to all and sundry. Charging out of the front door of a flat-roofed, one-storey little house, a handsome, stalwart, balding man greeted them with so many handshakes and kisses on the cheeks. He led them inside his three-room home, built under an arching rock shelf, overhung with a thick network of running vines and bougainvillaea which dangled over the front walls of the house.
Nico was astonished at all the books strewn on the rug-covered floor or lying open on the arms of a worn-out sofa. A low, wooden table, where a tea-pot and glasses had been set, comprised the rest of Abi Din’s ‘drawing-room’ furniture. The walls lay bare of pictures and the two front pane less windows bore no curtains. One naked lightbulb hung limply from a rafter. Nico, seated on the sofa, stared at the bareness of Abi Din’s abode. He could not decide whether the poet lived in poverty or simplicity.
As if reading his thoughts, Abi Din Bey, who had since served them black tea, said in his deep, authoritative voice: “Simplicity remains the poet’s true companion. All he needs is the whistling of the wind, the lapping of the waves, the rustling of the leaves. The true poet touches reality with his or her ears more than the eyes before voicing that reality, poetically. But I will acknowledge that the poet opens his or her senses to the moon at night and to the horizon-filled fishermen tossing their nets at the edge of the briny sea in the day.”
“You have been afflicted with Saït Faïk’s poetic madness,” laughed Vasiliki, translating his friend’s words for Nico.
“Anyone who came into contact with Saït became a poet … good or bad I am not to judge ! Who else listened to the talking seaweed or the weeping mussels?” Vasiliki agreed with a nod then translated for his grandson.
“Grandpa, how can seaweed talk and mussels weep?”
“Well, poets can hear things that we cannot, Nico.”
After tea, Abi Din Bey led them out to his front garden where the fragrances of oleander and honeysuckle muddled Nico’s imagination, already running amok due to all this talk of weeping mussels and talking seaweed. Out beyond the wooden fence the glint of Marmara glowed turquoise.
Vasiliki and Abi Din Bey spoke of Vasiliki’s father and grandfather, of a time when Burgaz bathed in a mellow light of unruffled peace and perfumed tranquillity. “And now look — Istanbul’s ‘hippies’ camp on weekends in the forests and on the beaches littering, smoking and drinking. Tourists swarm the island as if it were la Côte d’Azure. If Saïk or your father were alive … “ Abi Din Bey would repeat … but would never finish …
Towards late afternoon after a pleasant nap in their host’s hammocks, Vasiliki and Nico left Abi Din Bey to his domestic chores to stroll along the beach, avoiding the vast wracks of seaweed. “Let’s walk up to the Monastery of the Transfiguration on Bayrak Tepe,” Vasiliki suggested. “It’s the highest spot on the island. The monastery was built in the XIXth century and has never changed, so my father told me. We can talk to the Pope and his wife, they’re Greek … well, Turkish Greek.”
“You said there’s a difference, grandpa.”
“You see, the Greeks who came from Turkey to settle in Greece were never really liked by the Greeks because of their way of speaking Greek and their Turkish customs.”
“Why?” the boy insisted. But at that moment they halted in their tracks. A shirtless and shoeless man was busy erecting little pyramidal piles of stones here and there on the beach. Before Nico could enquire about this curious occupation the man turned towards the sea, opened his muscular arms wide, and in an eerie, sing-song voice chanted:
“Women light the lamps of spirit with a blue light as they warm up coffee.
During the nights, in the darkness, on the peak of a mountain
a miller, his eyes closed,
sleeps, face down.
Villagers would come
To sell their copperware at the market,
To sell yogurt.
A naked child, begging in the street, was knee-deep in snow.
At the head of a bridge in the Big City
I would throw myself over,
Suspended above the waters.
I would hear the waters that I would cleave,
Would see
The waters as I fell,
The waters that spurt up at the bridge.”[8]
The man turned his back to the sea and resumed his Sisyphean labour …
“What did the man chant, grandpa?”
“A poem by Saït, I think. A sad poem. You know, the life of a fisherman is not easy, but the life of a poet is not to be romanticised. Outwardly life may seem merry and bright. But deep inside, Nico, a poet’s lot is not to be envied. Saït’s short stories and poetry are filled with solemnity. Zorba thinks he understands this solemnity. Abi Din Bey is less pretentious; he leads a simple, lonely life and reads Saït for comfort. This solemnity has offered him a gratifying livelihood. He liked Saït so much and sought his companionship. But Saïk chose alcohol for a companion. Abi Din is a religious man, he doesn’t drink alcohol. Alcohol should never be a poet’s companion.”
Nico said nothing as they trudged up Bayrak Tepe to the Greek monastery, where after tea and honey cakes with the pope and his wife, they hurriedly trekked down the opposite side of the island, keeping the sea to the right. Two hours later they reached Zorba’s hillside home before nightfall. The sky blazed a crimson red as the sun set under the waveless Marmara.
Dinner having finished, Zorba and Vasiliki were served wine in the drawing-room and Nico a glass of lemonade. Zorba, exceptionally cheerful after a fruitful day in Istanbul, stood, poured himself another glass of wine and recited a few verses of his poetry :
“Honey is certainly a special nourishment;
Is truly medicinal.
He who eats honey thinks soundly;
He who does not, thinks ignorantly.”
Zorba sat down absorbed in the silence of his guests. “How I try to imitate Saïk,” he sighed at length.
“Can anyone imitate Saïk?” queried Vasiliki distractedly.
Zorba placed a pudgy hand to his heart: “Poets live to write and not write to live.”
Vasiliki agreed, heard the grandfather clock strike midnight, yawned and sleepily suggested that they be off to bed. Zorba acquiesced, promising a few more strophes the following night. A weary Vasiliki smiled perfunctorily …
Waking up with the larks, Vasiliki and Nico were served breakfast. Zorba had again left for Istanbul very early. The two tourists walked to the centre of town to visit Saint John the Baptist’s[9] church, then Saïk Faïk’s house-musuem and gardens. Saït’s former two-storey, balconeyed home rose into the blue island sky, the gable rising even higher than the palm trees that served as sentinels. The gardens were similar to Zorba’s — exceptionally well-kept. Inside, Nico was taken aback by the refined taste of the poet’s family: the exquisite, velvet cushioned chairs and sofas, the poet’s private library where many bookshelves contained poetry magazines, dictionaries and novels in Turkish, French and Greek. Nico surmised that the poet was a studious man.
“A very well-educated man,” whispered Vasiliki. “He translated too. His knowledge of languages inspired his short story and poetry writing.”
“Do you speak French, grandpa?”
“I’m afraid I don’t, my boy. You know, I’ve had little instruction. But you, Nico, look at those leather-bound volumes ; you may become a boat-building poet someday if you work hard at school.”
Nico’s little round eyes glowed a brilliant glow. How he loved to read, to touch the crispy pages of a book, to smell the print and paper. Spellbound by all this literature, he suddenly heard a fey voice :
“A table,
Flowerless.
Newspaper for cloth
Wine for love
And for fancies …” [10]
The mysterious voice trailed off. Nico searched the room frantically for his grandfather. There he stood in front of a hanging portrait of Saït Faïk.
“Grandpa.”
“Yes, my boy.”
“I would like to be a poet.,” Nico asserted.
“A boat-building poet?”
“Yes, write poems and short stories like that man hanging on the wall. He has such a handsome face … a kind, smiling face. He must have been a gentleman.”
Vasiliki nodded. “I’ve no doubt he was. Those eyes speak the tremors of his soul, a soul filled with the love of life, all life : mineral, animal, vegetable, human.”
Nico screwed up his eyes which met those of Saït’s, a deep blue like the sea. Laughing eyes, like the seagulls’ … Five minutes later they stepped into the blazing Burgaz sun, white white …
The rest of the morning and afternoon was spent in Abi Din’s front garden, drinking tea, chatting about Burgaz fishermen. They ate grilled-cheese sandwiches and sardines for lunch.
The loquacious Abe Din turned to Nico: “A poet’s life has its highs and lows. It’s best to keep to the middle, no jealous rivals to spread scandal, no avaricious publishers to milk you like a cow. Thieves, all of them ! Just write poems, Nico. Don’t waste your energy on market reception, critic’s reviews or what publishers expect from you. Your poems speak for themselves. And do you know why ?”
Nico did not know why for two reasons: he couldn’t understand Turkish and he never wrote a poem. The animated man continued, nevertheless: “Because you organise the movement of the poem with your own voice, a poem is an activity not a product. Poems make poetry; poetry does not make poems. A poet has no regards for schools of poetry, for modes of poetry, for signs-of-the-time poetry. Writers of poetry express the signs of their times; writers of poems suggest images of untimely inspiration. Writers of poetry idolize poetic forms ; writers of poems organise their poems subjectively, free from poetic occult pedantry and cryptic complexity. Listen ! Listen to those outer and inner inspirations.”
Vasiliki translated his friend’s fiery tirade as best he could and when Nico had understood the ‘Listen! Listen!’ The obedient boy listened even harder. Abi Din Bey’s voice rose higher: “A poem is first heard in the heart then expressed by word of mouth or on paper. Open your ears wide, Nico, open them wide!” When those last words of wisdom were translated, Nico attempted to open his ears as wide as he could. It was not an easy task, much harder than opening his eyes wide …
When the sun began to set Vasiliki and Nico bid farewell to the poet, promising to return the following year. Little did they know that the solitary poet would pass from this world in the near future …
They spent four more nights as Zorba’s guests eating like kings, listening to their host’s business conquests and after-dinner poetry over a glass of wine or lemonade. They left Zorba on the long flight of steps, he waving good-bye with a pudgy hand as the horse-drawn carriage bounced his guests up and down towards Burgaz pier.
“Grandpa, I’m going to work hard at school and read Saït Faïk’s short-stories and poems.”
“We’ll find translations of them, Nico. I told you that Burgaz Island plays strange things on people who come here. Her soil inspires us. Her energy rises from the core of the earth into our hearts and spirits. Burgaz possesses a mystery that no one has ever solved.”
“Not even Saït Faïk, grandpa?” Vasiliki scratched his white beard.
“I have no answer to that one, my boy. Maybe he did solve it. Poems and stories were his livelihood, like my fishing, a daily labour of love and effort. Perhaps someday you’ll solve the mystery of Burgaz.”
“By boat-building and writing poems?” Vasiliki gazed up at the circling seagulls.
Nico was not sure. Meanwhile, ahead lay the pier and the steamer now steaming into port, smoke bellowing from her stack. Ropes had been thrown down to moor her as passengers straggled off and on. Grandfather and grandson rushed into the vortex of that rolling movement and disappeared within the bustling throngs …
[1] Wooden mansions or villas along the Bosphoros Strait.
[2] Atatürk’s presidential palace.
[3] ‘Street’ in Turkish.
[4] ‘Appetizers or hors-d’oeuvres’.
[5] ‘Mashed chick peas’.
[6] ‘Meat rissole’.
[7] A sweet dessert made of angel hair, (kadaif), cheese, butter and topped off with honey sirop and crushed pistachios.
[8] Losely translated from ‘Bir Zamanlar’ ‘One Time’.
[9] Iohannas Prodromos in Greek. It was built in 1899.
[10] From Sait Faik’s poem ‘Masa’ ‘Table’, partially translated.
Paul Mirabile is a retired professor of philology now living in France. He has published mostly academic works centred on philology, history, pedagogy and religion. He has also published stories of his travels throughout Asia, where he spent thirty years.
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