When I learned that the poet Dylan Thomas had spent an uncomfortable night stranded on a headland called Worm’s Head I wondered what thoughts, if any, had gone through his mind at the time. The headland in question is the furthest westerly point of the Gower Peninsula.
I know Gower well. I have often hiked the coastal path that winds around this spectacular wedge of land that juts into the sea. I have climbed on Worm’s Head, though I have never been marooned on it. The headland consists of three small islands connected by causeways.
The main causeway linking the formation with the mainland is covered when the tide comes in. In fact, it is only accessible on foot for two and a half hours either side of low tide. This means it is very easy to become stranded on the headland, to be alone on the Worm.
It is perilous to attempt to swim back to shore. Many people have come to grief in the endeavour. Official advice is to remain on the Worm until the tide turns. That is what Dylan did. He described the headland afterwards as “the very promontory of depression” but before his unsettling experience as a temporary castaway, he was fascinated by its contours, the air of mystery surrounding it, a feeling almost of some ancient magic.
The headland has a distinctive shape, rearing out of the sea like the dragon it is named after, for ‘Worm’ originally was ‘Wurm’, a Viking word for dragon, and has nothing to do with wriggly soil-dwelling terrestrial invertebrates. It is a fossilised monster, a petrified myth, an undulating geological feature that seems poised to dive down into the depths.
Dylan scrambled over the rocks with a book and a bag of food, and when he reached the ultimate point of the Worm, the head itself, he made the classic mistake of falling asleep in the sun. When he was awakened by chills, he saw that it was sunset, the tide had come on, he was cut off. And so, he huddled on the coarse grass, frightened of “the things I am ashamed to be frightened of,” and waiting for the tide to go back out.
What things scared him on that little adventure? The ghosts of his fraught imagination? I know from experience how our senses can deceive us when we are in similar situations. I have bivouacked on enough beaches and islands to understand that the slap of the sea on reefs, the rolling of submerged pebbles, the cries of nightbirds, the breath of the breeze, can sound like the footsteps of goblins, demons, imps, the whisperings of phantoms, the groanings of ghouls. And so I wrote a poem for Dylan and the Worm, a poem in the form of three islands, each linked by narrow causeways…
Dylan
on the tiny hill
at the end of the causeway,
stranded by high tide and waiting
for it to recede again so he might escape
back to normality. But there’s no
normality in the whole land,
only the devilish
night
&
those
gusts of icy wind
that bite the exposed flesh
of wrists and throat that poke out
of cardigan warmth. Next time he’ll check
the tide times and plan a crossing
with more care, he’ll boast
appropriately and
laugh
a
brisk
laugh that’s more
like a dragon’s bite in the
way it sounds, a legendary snarl,
but now his knees are drawn up and fears
gnaw gently on his spirit’s bones,
a man alone, far from home,
musing on a stone
skull.
Rhys Hughes has lived in many countries. He graduated as an engineer but currently works as a tutor of mathematics. Since his first book was published in 1995 he has had fifty other books published and his work has been translated into ten languages.
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